How for to go with engine repair

[What Anchor]

I have an early model freshwater A4 that had a mechanical fuel pump failure. I pulled the engine ( 1963 Columbia 29), removed the fuel pump, made a cover plate in it's place and installed an electric pump, also rebuilt the carb. During the test run on the bench it started easily and sounded good, but oil pressure was only 20 to 25 and did not change with increase in RPM. During the run I could not get the reversing gear to stay in neutral is was either going forward or backward, no linkage was attached. Is this normal or do I have reversing gear issues. After warm up I checked the compression and had about 70 across all four. I pulled the heard yesterday and there was more carbon than I have ever seen in an engine. It is a wonder any of the valves closed. There was also some oil on the cylinder walls. My first thought was a valve job and rings, or should I go all in and bore it out and go the the bottom end? The boat and engine are new to me, so I have no idea of history, it does have electronic ignition and somebody hooked up a breather with a PCV valve. The guy I bought it from did little if anything to it in 16 years. I would attach pictures, tried twice with this Apple product to no avail. Thanks Carl

[Marian Claire]

Oil pressure. Did you try adjusting the oil pressure?
Reversing gear. No. You should be able to have a true neutral area. I had to slightly adjust my reversing gear after rebuild/installation and I added a mark on my shifter to help me locate neutral.
How you plan to use the boat is a big factor in how deep to go into repairs. What are your plans? The PVC is an indication that the PO had blow-by issues/worn or damaged rings.
Dan S/V Marian Claire
Early 1965 A-4

[ndutton]

My 2¢

At its age and reported condition I suggest it has earned a full rebuild. Likely one of the previous owners added the PCV system to manage engine wear in the form of cabin smoke (blowby) so it has been tired for quite some time.

Here's where I'd pick my battles. A decade ago I'd probably take on the project but as I age I'm appreciating the merits of paying for professional work and we have an excellent and reliable source right here with Moyer Marine. They offer a variety of rebuild options from a short block (maybe your best choice) to a full running engine. You may be able to offset some expense by reassembling yours and selling it as a running engine yourself or return it as a core to MMI.

About expense, there may not be that much difference between buying one of MMI's rebuild products compared to all the parts and local machine services you'll need for a proper rebuild. I acquired my running spare engine with a deep knock but good compression and intact water jacket. The issue was a lost #2 rod bearing so all I needed to replace was the bearing, rod, full gasket set and have the crankshaft ground. While I was at it I cleaned her up, new core plugs, electronic ignition, coil, plugs, plug wires, water pump rebuild, accessory drive oil port modification, carburetor rebuild, Kaminsky modification and replacement electric fuel pump. Really it was not a rebuild but a crank repair and #2 rod and bearing replacement, reseal and general clean up and various improvements. I got the engine for free but still spent $1000.00 on what little I did. You'll be doing quite a bit more with the associated expense.

Choose your battles, eyes wide open and all that.

[What Anchor]

The boat will be used primarily as daysailer, but I do take trips round Lake Superior and the north Channel. The ultimate dream is to to head out the lakes and down the ICW, but that may never happen. These uses point toward an all out overhaul. I can do everything but the machine shop work, so that helps and I am retired so I have time.
Thanks
Carl

[Al Schober]

Carl,
You're definitely in for rings. If you can't get the oil pressure to come up, you're in for bearings too.
Don't be afraid of machine shops - they're good folk. Last engine I did, I had a shop do the valves, valve seats, and the Kaminsky mod. They installed carbide inserts on the exhaust seats - no extra charge.
If this is your first A4 teardown, you're in for a pleasant surprise when you take the head off. I doubt you'll find a ridge at the top of the cylinders. It will probably just be a simple hone the bores and install new rings using the old pistons. Both engines I've done have been this way. The cast parts of the A4 are a high chrome alloy - resistant to wear and corrosion.
If you're going further than you want to row, a reliable engine is a good thing. When I say reliable, I mean like gravity - drop the apple and it hits the ground. Turn the key and you want it to run. That's the goal.

[What Anchor]

Off to the shop

I stripped the engine down today, no real problems. All the studs came out pretty easy as did all the components. The troubling part was the presence of some water in the oil. Not much, but enough to turn a little of it milky. So tomorrow it is off to the local machine shop. I am guessing now would be a great time to get a rebuilt reversing gear, I am sure this one is original and has never been touched. I am not sure what to look for, but will read through the MMI manual tonight. Prior to pulling the boat this fall it did not slip or have any odd noises.

Hopefully, I will have some great pictures to share when this thing is assembled again. Oh yes, and thanks in advance for all the questions I will have over the next couple of months.
Carl

[marthur]

Hi Carl,

Many of the components in the reversing gear are probably overbuilt for this motor. Not as extreme as the 2:1 reduction gear--that thing could power a semi. You really may not need a rebuilt unit. Others will suggest some things to look for, but I would inspect the bearings, the bevel spacer and the reversing brake band. If it is working well and you see no issues with those, replace the seals and gaskets. You might also consider a few modifications (Kaminsky mod, for example) while its out.

BTW: Munising is in a beautiful area. I try to visit your neck of the woods every year. If you see a Lippincott 30 named "Hilaria" while you are in the North Channel this summer sure to stop by for a visit!

Mike