Looking for an A4 Mechanic in Kentucky Lake

[joe_db]

On a Model A engine typically use kerosene to flush the fuel tank and tranny, same here or just use new gas?

The A4 uses the engine oil for the transmission. As for the gas, I have never tried kerosene to clean anything. Not saying it wouldn't work.

[Dave Neptune]

Joe, in my grandfathers garage he cleaned everything with diesel (kerosene). Really took off the gunk left by the old nondetergent oils. We would even ran many overhead engines without oil and instead used diesel fuel. After about 20~30 minutes of running almost all of the gook would be in the pan or ready to brush off. Then tear down and rebuild.

Dave Neptune

[JTG1160]

Ok, as promised here's some pics. First pic is the boat, 1960 Tripp 30 Yawl

[JTG1160]

And some pics of the beauty/beast

[JTG1160]

Whoops, try again

[JTG1160]

Finished with the shaft alignment and pulled the carb and Racor for a thorough cleaning now that I've emptied the tank of the old gas

[chapster5]

Maybe its just me but that is some serious Alternator !!

[JTG1160]

Ya, I'm always struck be how different each A4 is that I see pictures of. Question, the screen on the front of the carb air intake, I assume that's to stop any bugs or anything going in? Is there another purpose and what is the purpose of the red fitting on it? Thx!

[Dave Neptune]

The "screen" is very important for safety. It is not to catch things going into the carb but to catch a flame coming out of the carb due to back firing!

Dave Neptune

[Dave Neptune]

Oops forgot about to red fitting. It is to rout crankcase fumes into the carb. It is connected via a hose from the red fitting to the crankcase port.

Dave Neptune

[Dave Neptune]

Changes

JTG, after looking at your photos there is something I don't like. The engine ground looks poor and not very well located. First the "grey" wire just looks to be redundant from block to block. Your connections SHOULD NOT be on the head studs. The soft electrical connections will not maintain good "torque pressure" as they will slowly yield over time. Take those connections to a starter bolt or the flywheel cover and re-torque the studs.

When grounding on the head keep in mind that the full electrical load is going through the head which is insulated by the head-gasket and relying on the stud which is fastened with sealant to get the ground to the block the ultimate goal.

Dave Neptune

[joe_db]

JTG, after looking at your photos there is something I don't like. The engine ground looks poor and not very well located. First the "grey" wire just looks to be redundant from block to block. Your connections SHOULD NOT be on the head studs. The soft electrical connections will not maintain good "torque pressure" as they will slowly yield over time. Take those connections to a starter bolt or the flywheel cover and re-torque the studs.

When grounding on the head keep in mind that the full electrical load is going through the head which is insulated by the head-gasket and relying on the stud which is fastened with sealant to get the ground to the block the ultimate goal.

Dave Neptune

This is why I run a ground wire to my alternator

[JTG1160]

Wow, missed that hose from the crank case to the carb. Need to find or replace that but what's the benefit of routing crank case fumes to the carb? Temp?

[JTG1160]

Or I guess it's just a convenient way to get rid of fumes?

Also your thinking the "grey" wire can be removed? Really didn't understand it myself but that was already on there when I got it.

Great catch on the engine ground to the head studs, will fix that.

[edwardc]

I would recommend using one of the starter bolts for the ground. The starter is far and away the largest current draw in the system, and using the starter bolt keeps that path to the starter to a minimum.