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  #1   IP: 166.137.240.62
Old 07-30-2020, 11:45 AM
mwh2319 mwh2319 is offline
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Help - How do I get the propeller shaft and/or coupler out of the way.

Hi all, I just bought a Pearson Triton 1967 with an Atomic 4 engine. I got a good deal because the engine may have a serious problem.

The 4Ē blower hose got tangled up with the propeller shaft. It was shredded to bits and the spiral wire got tightly wrapped around the Direct Drive Coupling (#12) in the small gap between the the Direct Drive Coupling (#12) and the Rear Oil Seal Retainer (#5).

I put in an inspection hatch in the floor of the cockpit so I can get at it. Then I cut away as much of the wire as possible. I even went at it with a hacksaw. But I worry that approach might damage the Rear Oil Seal (#6).

But there looks like there is still maybe a foot or two of wire still tightly wrapped around the Direct Drive Coupling (#12) inside the gap. Iím concerned that if I just leave the wire in here it will over time damage the Rear Oil Seal (#6).

Iíve think I can remove the Direct Drive Coupling (#12) once I get the propeller shaft and/or itís flange out of the way. But how do I do that?

Thanks,
Mark
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  #2   IP: 32.211.28.40
Old 07-31-2020, 09:10 PM
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There are 3 bolts holding the coupling to the transmission flange (pc 12). Remove them and you can slide the coupling and shaft aft until the coupling hits the stuffing box. This will give you room to access and remove the nut holding the transmission flange. With the nut removed, you can use the 3 coupling bolts to jack the flange aft enough to get the wire out.
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Old 08-01-2020, 08:27 AM
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Thanks, but ...

Thanks Al, youíre the Man! That was very helpful as I didn't know the prop shaft could move fore and aft in the stuffing box.

But my propeller will only move about +/-1Ē aft before it hits the rudder. Also my boat is in the water and Iím hoping to not pay for a haul out until next year.

Maybe if I can open up the gap by +/-1Ē I can get the wire out. Also can I move the flange on the propeller shaft aft as well?

Thanks,
Mark
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Old 08-01-2020, 08:35 AM
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Turn the rudder hard over to its stop and the shaft should clear.
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  #5   IP: 32.211.28.40
Old 08-01-2020, 09:03 AM
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Getting the coupling loose from the shaft is a bigger issue. The coupling is steel and will corrode internally, making it difficult to remove. There is a technique you can try if you want to go that way.
This involves putting a spacer between the prop shaft and the engine shaft (a suitably sized socket?). You then put 3 long bolts with nuts threaded on all the way through the coupling and into the transmission flange. By holding the bolts from turning and tightening the nuts against the coupling, you pull the coupling forward, leaving the shaft aft. Oh yeah, remove the set screw first.
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Old 08-01-2020, 09:16 AM
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  #7   IP: 24.152.132.140
Old 08-01-2020, 09:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Al Schober View Post
There is a technique you can try if you want to go that way. This involves putting a spacer between the prop shaft and the engine shaft (a suitably sized socket?). You then put 3 long bolts with nuts threaded on all the way through the coupling and into the transmission flange. By holding the bolts from turning and tightening the nuts against the coupling, you pull the coupling forward, leaving the shaft aft. Oh yeah, remove the set screw first.
Take care if using this technique. It can be overdone to the point of destruction.
http://www.moyermarineforum.com/foru...92&postcount=4 (third picture)
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Old 08-02-2020, 03:24 PM
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Neil, I hope those aren't your photos. The flange comes off a LOT easier if you remove that nut!
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Old 08-02-2020, 05:09 PM
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Nope, not my photos but rather from a VERY knowledgeable forum brother. The damage to the output flange was the result of trying to press the shaft out of the prop shaft coupling using the socket/spacer technique. The nut holding the output flange was not involved.
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1977 Catalina 30
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prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22
Had my hands in a few others
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