Installed EI and new coil & now no spark

[gagabriele]

Hi Afourians,
I decided today to convert my '79 A4 to EI using the EI kit and the coil from Moyer. I very carefully followed the instructions from the manufacturer and those from Moyer and everything seemed to go in place without any apparent issues. So with new EI and coil, I attempted to start the engine but I'm not getting it to fire. I pulled a plug to check for spark and there was nothing. No spark at all.
I need some help in troubleshooting what I did wrong. Are there voltage readings I should be checking? Any tests I can do to narrow this down to where the problem is? The installation seemed pretty straight forward so I don't know where the issue is.

Some background. The engine was running today before I made this change however, only cylinders 1&2 were firing. Cyl 3, which has compression and fuel, had a weak spark and didn't seem to be firing. Cyl 4 has a sticky valve that I believe is loose enough to come to life eventually. I made the change because my access to the distributor is very difficult (Catalina 27), and I was hoping for some more consistent spark to bring cyl 3 to life.

[Dave Neptune]

Questions 2

First, did you remove the distributor to R&R the kit?

Second did you put the "rotor" back in? Seen that more than you'd expect.

Dave Neptune

[gagabriele]

No, I did not remove the distributor just the plate as per the instructions.

I'm fairly certain that I installed the rotor but I will certainly check as I would love a simple solution.

[Dave Neptune]

While there

After checking for the rotor and if it is in place check voltages with the key on and then QLAB turn it off whatever you find. Check for voltage at the + terminal on the coil.

Did you lube or check the centrifugal advance while inside the distributor?

Dave Neptune

[Dave Neptune]

Oops basics

It is easy to overlook the possibility of blowing a fuse while playing with wires too.

Dave Neptune

[67rway]

Having just installed the Ignitor as well, I would advise to make sure the ring got fully seated. Mine took considerably more force than I expected to get it seated as per the spec.

[gagabriele]

It started and it was a simple mistake

Well, just as Dave suggested, it was a problem with the rotor. I had put it in but I hadn't seated it properly in it's slot, so it was not spinning correctly. Fixed it, and it started right up. Thanks, Dave!

Now, I'm back to trying to fix the original problem firing on 2 cyls. I'm going to create a new thread for that problem. Thanks for all the suggestions.

[sastanley]

I have the EI, but I do not have Moyer's kit. However, one thing I noticed on my EI is the magnetic collar that goes under the rotor will not allow the rotor to seat in its slot properly unless you really get it (the magnet) down a bit on the dizzy shaft (i.e., I had to break the plastic 'stop' of the collar to slide down the collar far enough to properly seat the rotor.)

On my road bicycle, magnets trip the cadence & speed sensors..they have alignment notches and are pretty sensitive. I wonder how tricky aligning the EI magent is to the EI module??

[Dave Neptune]

Plugs and bikes

Shawn, cycling my second favorite pastime. Yes the alignment is about the same, however the "planes" in the distributor are pretty much a "fixed" position so when the parts are "seated properly" the alignment should be spot on. On the bike there are many variables. I had a heck of a time aligning my wireless cycle computer on my articulated bike. No big deal on the road bike though. I even put a cycle computer on my sand rail, but for that one I had to make the mounts and weld the sensor in place and screwed the magnet into the rim~works great.

Love this site.

gag, do open the gap on your plugs a bit. It will help in burning off the top oil and keeping the plugs a bit warmer at idle speeds~one of the big advantages of the EI~take advantage of it.

Dave Neptune

[67rway]

gag, do open the gap on your plugs a bit. It will help in burning off the top oil and keeping the plugs a bit warmer at idle speeds~one of the big advantages of the EI~take advantage of it.

Dave Neptune

How much more plug gap do you find effective with EI?

[Dave Neptune]

Gaps

67, you can't go as big as the FI stuff with a carburetor. I have a very old and tired A-4 (goin on it's 44th unrebuilt year) and I use the stock heat range plug with resistor and copper core RJ-8C, or the marine plug if you will. I gap them at a loose .040" and run them for 2~3 seasons @ 150 hours a season easily. I have never fouled a plug. I may try a bit more gap~.045"~ this time around as it is time to freshen the ign. parts this season. IE 6 years on cap and rotor and I don't worry about the silicone wires until they look dry or start arcing.

Dave Neptune

[JOHN COOKSON]

For My (And Others) Information

Dave N.
Is opening the gap on a RJ8C the equivalent of running a "hotter" spark plug ie RJ12C?

TRUE GRIT

[Dave Neptune]

Ht range vs gap

John, no not really. Opening or closing the gap pretty much only has a small affect at idle and just above. Once the engine is working under any load the heat range is the heat range. The increased gap creates a little bigger flash around the plug to start the "BURN" and the tip & ground retain this additional heat at low RPM's and load. Closing will make them cooler but also only at the idle range.

Dave Neptune