#1
IP: 76.72.128.131
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Water jacket exhaust on C&C Corvette
I know there are some C&C Corvette owners on this site. I was hoping to get some insight / opinion on the exhaust configuration.
My boat has the original copper or bronze water jacketed exhaust which looks to be in OK condition. The boat has been laid up for over 20 years though. I know from efforts to start it recently that there is a small breach in the hot section immediately after the manifold flange. I shudder to think about trying to detach the water jacket section from the hot section coming off the manifold IN PLACE. Even worse, trying to remove the thing in one piece!? Two initial questions I would like to ask. 1. Are there any C&C Corvette owners out there with some experience on servicing / repairing or replacing the water jacket exhaust. 2. Someone mentioned pressure testing the water jacket exhaust. How is that done? Thanks for all the help. Next time I'm aboard I'll take some photos and sketch out what this thing looks like. |
#2
IP: 142.167.230.18
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Hello there, I am also a new C&C Corvette owner, well the boat has been in the family since it was new, but i am new to being the owner and maintainer. Anyway my C&C also has the original water sleeve exhaust and may also have problems. I will keep you posted on my progress as well.
I would also be very interested in hearing how others may have replaced the system. Anyone fit a Vetus water lift in? |
#3
IP: 107.0.6.242
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There are three types of exhaust systems that I am aware of - jacketed, standpipe, and water lift. Those with copper or bronze jacketed systems should know that of the three basic exhaust types they already have the best. I would be very reluctant to downgrade to a water lift if there was a chance of fixing the jacket. The jacket is the best because it is the straightest and thus must economical and most importantly is not subject to mishaps like water intrusion into the engine. The standpipe is also safe from the latter standpoint but does require the space to fit it, and is costly. The water lift (Vetus or other) is subject to intrusion and makes the engine drive water uphill thus wasting power. It also requires a riser to mitigate the danger. The jacket can be tested much like a manifold is tested, by plugging the discharge end and cobbling a pressure gauge (0-30 range is nice) with a Schraeder valve. If it holds even 5 psi I'd keep it.
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#4
IP: 76.72.128.131
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Hi CurlyJones, nice to meet another Corvette owner.
The copper jacketed exhaust I took out of the boat appears actually be in pretty good shape. One suspect area of leakage, but very minor if a leak at all. I would like to continue to use this if at all possible. I'm going to cobble up some sort of something to do a leak/pressure test. I'll keep you posted. I posted some photos in another thread in the exhaust section. My boat is #134 and was on the yard for over 20 years. |
#5
IP: 198.11.8.218
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IMHO check for leaks, but there is little value in putting pressure on the exhaust water jacket - use 1 or 2 pounds, gently, at max.
Remember, the design pressure in operation is essentially zero.
__________________
Jeff S/V Bunny Planet 1971 Bristol 29 #169 |
#6
IP: 76.72.128.131
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Thanks much. My plan exactly.
Basically a leak test, under very minor pressure. When I took the unit out of the boat, crystal clear glycol alcohol antifreeze came out of the wet section. A very small amount, like a cup of light brown ooze came out of the exhaust section. Could have easily been MMO or condensation, or both. Should have took a photo but didn't. |
#7
IP: 174.94.17.50
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I replaced my original water jacket exhaust in my Corvette with an MMI stainless waterlift (Product No. - EXHT_01.0_377) - IMO the original had lasted for 40+ years...was due for a change out & took up too much room in the port cockpit locker.
I had thought of using the MMI stainless Tartan standpipe exhaust (Product No. - EXHT_01.0_527) with what is known as a "North Sea" exhaust which exits out of both sides of the vessel...would have required a fair bit of work on my part so I went with the waterlift instead. Last edited by 67c&ccorv; 08-25-2014 at 08:39 PM. |
#8
IP: 156.34.193.252
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I am currently battling a very stubborn pipe union that joins my exhaust flange to the water jacket. I am thinking now that i may try to remove it so i can work at freeing the pipe union and replacing it with a new one well at the same time pressure testing my water jacket.
I have hull #166 which is the last official Corvette produced in Belleville, ON (there are rumors that their may have been one or two built on the molds after the shutdown of Morch Marine). Have you heard of the C&C Corvette Owners Association? http://www.corvettesailboatassociation.com/ |
#9
IP: 174.94.17.50
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CA is a good group to join.
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#10
IP: 156.34.193.252
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I feel something CA is sorely lacking is a good forum like this one. I have loads of the old newsletters and other correspondences CA sent to my grandfather when he owned the boat.
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#11
IP: 198.11.8.218
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It's a numbers game of critical mass...
# of Corvettes = 166 (that's yours!) # of Bristol 29s = 169 (that's mine!) # of Atomic 4s manufactured = 40,000 ish - the most common denominator.
__________________
Jeff S/V Bunny Planet 1971 Bristol 29 #169 |
#12
IP: 174.58.82.173
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67 C&c, are you saying that you have both a standpipe and a waterlift?
Why? |
#13
IP: 76.72.128.131
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The Corvette Association is wonderful. This one is fantastic.
Attached are a couple of photos of what I took out of #134. I was very fortunate that the Union Joint that joins the water jacket portion to the copper 'riser' (with a second water injection on the down hill side) came undone without too much effort. My exhaust flange bolts also came off easily and cleanly. The behemoth came out of the boat easily in two sections. If I can unmarry the iron hot section from the copper water jacket (currently soaking in PB Blaster) I believe I can remake that section easily and inexpensively and install it all back in with a new exhaust flange from Moyer. I would like to perhaps reroute it a bit so it takes up less space. I'll keep interested folks posted on how it all comes together. |
#14
IP: 107.0.6.242
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What is the function of that valve?
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#15
IP: 107.0.6.242
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That is one sweet exhaust system, like having straight pipes on your street rod. I'd install that in my boat in a heartbeat if I could fit it.
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#16
IP: 174.94.17.50
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Quote:
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#17
IP: 174.94.17.50
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Condensate and following sea drain/surge protector.
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#18
IP: 156.34.193.252
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Hey Tangaroa, what was used as lagging on your pipe section after the water jacket. I'm looking at mine and it sure looks like its some form of asbestos with a metal sleeve over it. Just curious what yours was and wondering what i may replace mine with.
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#19
IP: 76.72.128.131
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Hi Curly...mine had some asbestos looking stuff on it also that was basically disintegrating. Sure hope it wasn't, but I took appropriate precautions while taking it out. There is some discussion on here about a very effective heat wrap...calcium something or other...I forget...that apparently turns dusty and must be contained. May have been that stuff I don't know.
My latest update is that I am unable the remove that iron Y fitting from the copper exhaust without wrecking it.. Totally seized. May bring it to a machine shop to see what they can do. |
#20
IP: 161.213.49.150
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Not Sure I Understand The Set Up But.......
Quote:
If there has been significat electrolysis the threads may be shot - but I think copper is the more noble metal so you may be OK. TRUE GRIT |
#21
IP: 216.115.121.240
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I have a similar system(1968 Columbia 36) I think it is stainless steel!
And yes, it is a great exhaust. Mine was painted the same bronze color as the engine so I thought it was copper too at first. See picture of it with paint scratched off. It runs cool to the touch even when the engine is at temp. Russ
__________________
Whiskeyjack a '68 Columbia 36 rebuilt A-4 with 2:1 "Since when is napping doing nothing?" |
#22
IP: 198.11.8.218
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Quote:
The trick is to approach the second cut like a jeweler trying to take a ring off a finger. Take your time. Sometimes you get lucky and it almost pops open a bit, but more likely it will just allow you to pry the curf apart and that will break the grip on the threads. If it's really really stuck, you can make a second dotted line cut 90 degrees around from the first and pry off a pipe segment.
__________________
Jeff S/V Bunny Planet 1971 Bristol 29 #169 |
#23
IP: 76.72.128.131
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I may attempt that BunnyPlanet. My wheels were turning the same direction.
Sucks being on a shoe string, but I don't mind the work....just hard finding the time to do it. Long weekend coming up, and since I won't be sailing, may try and tackle this. Will keep all posted. |
#24
IP: 76.72.128.131
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Quote:
May last a season....may last 20, but from what I saw I think it's fine. FYI, the back side of that gate valve for draining condensation or water that packed in from the transom was packed full of oily soot. The valve was functioning but no way any moisture would drain out. It is now flushed and as clean as I could manage. Now to rearrange the installation so it doesn't hog the whole port lazarette. |
#25
IP: 156.34.194.74
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I think I am going to have to try something similar on my pipe union that joins the exhaust to the exhaust flange. FYI The exhaust in my C&C is run very close to the fuel tank and hardly intrudes on the port locker. and stays clear of the aft cockpit locker as well, so it is possible!
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