Water has gotten into crankcase and Oil

[RobH2]

Thank you guys.

I'll do that exhaust exploration today. I think I'll pull the exhaust off and examine it. I may not be able to start the engine on Easter due to the noise it will create. I'm downtown in a nice residential area and it would be too disruptive. I can run the engine later this week.

Nine years ago when I bought the boat it had a failed head gasket and a severe overheating problem. I pulled most of the engine apart in the water except for the block. I knew it pretty well and knew what components I had on the engine.

I have to say, my working knowledge of the engine has slipped quite a bit. In the past 9-years all I've done is change oil, filters, plugs and wires. It's been a great engine. I guess in a way I've ignored it becasue it's ran so well. You can tell from my photos how dirty it is. Maybe it's a wakeup call to keep it cleaner and stay more plugged into it.

[roadnsky]

Hey Rob-
Please don't take this the wrong way.
IF this were my engine, I'd re-try the pressure test... to be certain.

As you can see, we're mystified by the amount of water, given the successful pressure test.
That water is coming from somewhere.

[ndutton]

I may not be able to start the engine on Easter due to the noise it will create. I'm downtown in a nice residential area and it would be too disruptive. I can run the engine later this week.

Good on ya, I respect that.

[RobH2]

10-4. Will redo the pressure test today. I appreciate your prudence. Plus, it's a 'quiet' test...

[Tim]

If that much water is backing up through the exhaust it seems like there should be some evidence of it inside the cylinders. Especially #4. Did you check the plugs or look in the cylinders after you discovered the water in the oil? If that much water is backing up through the exhaust, after running the engine the #4 plug should be wet, and/or there should be water visible in the #4 cylinder. I would redo the pressure test just to be sure. If it passes again, I would run the engine for a couple minutes and check for water in the cylinders.

[JOHN COOKSON]

Hey Rob-
Please don't take this the wrong way.
IF this were my engine, I'd re-try the pressure test... to be certain.
As you can see, we're mystified by the amount of water, given the successful pressure test.
That water is coming from somewhere.

Maybe a bit of quality control is in order.
If the engine passes the pressure test again at the end of the test, while the cooling system is still pressurized, intentionally cause a small leak somewhere in the cooling system and see if the pressure drops.

TRUE GRIT

[nyvoyager]

check exhaust

the elbow at the top of your lift muffler assembly has a habit of clogging up. check from the end of the manifold to where the water joins the lift muffler.
I discovered this last fall after being stranded for 2 days! best of luck

[RobH2]

I see the additional comments. Thank you.

Here's what I found.

1) I redid the pressure test with a brand new pump to make sure I was getting a good reading. The first time I pumped it up to 20 lbs. the air drained out in about 30-seconds. So, I decided to make sure that my connections weren't leaking so I put soapy water on them and found that my plug at the back of the manifold was making bubbles. I tightened that a bit more and pressurized again. That test was completely successful. I've attached a photo that shows that I only lost a couple of pounds, if that, in over an hour.

2) I pulled the exhaust pipe which is black pipe. I knew it was probably leaking as I had steam just above where the water is injected back into it. I've attached a photo of it and the fitting that connects to the brass "Y" is eaten through and separated. I don't think it was separated before I started tugging on it though. I think it just had a slow leak.

This is a significant degradation though. But, how could this cause water to backflow into the engine? The interior of the black pipe was clean and smooth with no scale or obstruction.

This might just be a coincidental leak and pipe failure and have nothing to do with the water incursion. I ran my finger around inside the manifold where the pipe connects and there was water. It was wet and it wasn't oil.

So I need to start the engine now and see if water is spewing out of the manifold in the exhaust. I'm assuming that's what we are looking for from the comment that suggested that I do this (with precautions).

[ndutton]

Where did you pump air into the system?

[RobH2]

I pulled the hose coming from the outlet of the water pump and put a Schrader valve there. I plugged the system by putting a plug in the hose that comes off of the back end of the manifold just above the exhaust pipe connection. I know it was pressurized all the way to that exit location because when I released the clamp on the exit, there was still a little pressure and it shot my plug out and dirty water all over me and the interior of the boat.

[Peter]

possible additional test

Rob,

This appears to be great news - the block/head/manifold passed the pressure test! If I am reading your post correctly, you did the test after the water pump. I would be inclined to now pressure test the water pump itself as the onset of the problem correlated with your replacement of the pump impeller. As others have mentioned it seems unlikely the pump is the issue, but until you test it you will not know for sure.

Re the exhaust, it seems to me that a leak there would reduce the ability of the exhaust pressure to push the cooling water out through the water lift. Perhaps the water backed up past the water injection point? The fact that you were seeing some steam there suggests water was up past the injection point.

You will need to replace that hot section and please do not use galvanized pipe to do so. The metal coating off-gases toxic fumes. Use black iron or stainless. I have also found that cheap exhaust wrap also gives off a horrible stink.

Hope that helps,

Peter

[RobH2]

Peter, thanks for the info.

To pressure test the water pump just test across it from inlet to outlet, that simple?

10-4 on the exhaust pipe. I used black pipe before and will do so again because I can make that up from standard lengths. For stainless I think I'd have to have a shop make it up and it would likely cost a fortune. However, on the plus side, it would probably last a lot longer.

So you think a small leak would be enough to allow water to back up and make it's way back to the engine? It would seem awfully coincidental if I were to all of a sudden have water in the oil "and" see a steaming leak in my exhaust and have them be completely independent of each other. I'm encouraged now and not so afraid that I need an engine rebuild.

I hope I haven't harmed the engine by running it with water in the oil for the few 4 or 5 minutes that I did so. I do need to get that last watery oil out of there ASAP. I didn't pull it out when I found it as I was so dejected. I just moped home... lol...

[ndutton]

I agree, the successful pressure test is good news. The only possibilities left are the water pump, exhaust or both. I suggest the money saved by using black iron for the exhaust can be reinvested toward a new MMI flange pump.

[Peter]

To pressure test the water pump just test across it from inlet to outlet, that simple?
...
I hope I haven't harmed the engine by running it with water in the oil for the few 4 or 5 minutes that I did so. I do need to get that last watery oil out of there ASAP. I didn't pull it out when I found it as I was so dejected. I just moped home... lol...

Yes on the pump test question.

I had a water incursion event and the mechanic I was working with was deeply concerned about "flash rust" (I think that is the term he used) so his approach was to drain the engine, fill with oil and get running ASAP. Then the usual run for a while to get it all warm, change oil, fill, run, change etc. until oil was coming out non-milky.

Hope that helps,

Peter

Then a nice long motor to get the engine up to temp for a good while to get the last of the moisture out.

[nyvoyager]

Good progress! While you are at it - check the brass Y for any blockage