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  #1   IP: 70.131.127.243
Old 04-21-2014, 10:33 PM
jsmickey19 jsmickey19 is offline
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Broken oil pressure sending unit nipple

Hi All
Climbing into my boat today (with the companion way stairs out) I managed to slip and snap the oil pressure sending unit off flush at the block.
I plan on picking up a set of extractors tomorrow and will attempt to remove the remaining nipple from the block.
As this is my first time attempting this operation I would appreciate any input, tips, tricks, etc. on how not to make a bad situation worse.

Thanks
JSMickey
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Old 04-22-2014, 08:20 AM
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The extractor is probably the worst thing you can do; you will likely break off the extractor and have an even greater problem. The best thing is to drill out the material with increasing sizes until the threads remaining can be picked out with a sharp tool. If you can score a few left handed drill bits that is first prize. Sometimes the broken nipple end will just spin out for you. You should also have a 1/8" NPT tap on hand to chase the threads.
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Old 04-22-2014, 08:22 AM
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Before you try all that, it might not be stuck. You can try a screwdriver or small chisel that will grab the inside of the remaining pipe and see if you can unscrew it. Don't overdo it and make a worse mess
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Old 04-22-2014, 08:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsmickey19 View Post
As this is my first time attempting this operation I would appreciate any input, tips, tricks, etc. on how not to make a bad situation worse.
I would suggest that you use a small hammer to tap lightly on the extractor while applying a constant, firm pressure on the extractor. I would hold the extractor with small pair of vice grips, and gently tap-tap-tap-tap... And gently apply twisting pressure.

Be patient, and gentle...
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Old 04-22-2014, 09:08 AM
jsmickey19 jsmickey19 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joe_db View Post
Before you try all that, it might not be stuck. You can try a screwdriver or small chisel that will grab the inside of the remaining pipe and see if you can unscrew it. Don't overdo it and make a worse mess
Thanks all,
Tried twisting it out with the tapered handle spike of a file and that was a no go. I've got a feeling that the nipple has been in this engine since day one (73). I'm going to give the extractor a try (maybe with an impact hammer?). If that dosen't work I'll go with the drill.
Any thoughts on heating it with a torch?
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Old 04-22-2014, 09:29 AM
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That thread is 1/8 NPT. That size tap calls for a 21/64 pilot drill. 21/64 is not available from McMaster in left hand, but the next size smaller is 5/16 which is available. #3474A21 for $9.33 That's what I'd recommend.
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  #7   IP: 167.165.222.32
Old 04-22-2014, 01:24 PM
jsmickey19 jsmickey19 is offline
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Thanks Al, I'll try and find those bits.
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Old 04-22-2014, 01:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Al Schober View Post
That thread is 1/8 NPT. That size tap calls for a 21/64 pilot drill. 21/64 is not available from McMaster in left hand, but the next size smaller is 5/16 which is available. #3474A21 for $9.33 That's what I'd recommend.
An extractor is much easier to find, and would be the first choice for many....


I would skip the impact driver as well.

Last edited by jstaff; 04-22-2014 at 01:40 PM.
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Old 04-22-2014, 01:42 PM
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FYI: Here is a drill bit listed on Amazon with one day shipping available :

Left Hand Drill Bit 21/64
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Old 04-22-2014, 04:26 PM
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I'm glad I'm not the only idiot that did this......HAHAHA

I was working on the engine and leaned on the sender and snapped off the brass tube also, right flush at the block. The air was blue... glad wife wasn't around.

You've probably fixed it by now but here's my solution.

Oh and be careful of drilling it may leave flakes in the hole, oil, engine and ruin the threads.

I have Easyouts that fit in the hole and with a coupled of taps to seat the tool and turning it, out it came. I drove over to Home Depot and bought another brass tube for $1 in the plumbing department and put it all back together.

Now I make sure I don't go anywhere near the damn thing.



Quote:
Originally Posted by jsmickey19 View Post
Hi All
Climbing into my boat today (with the companion way stairs out) I managed to slip and snap the oil pressure sending unit off flush at the block.
I plan on picking up a set of extractors tomorrow and will attempt to remove the remaining nipple from the block.
As this is my first time attempting this operation I would appreciate any input, tips, tricks, etc. on how not to make a bad situation worse.

Thanks
JSMickey
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1980 30' C&C MK1

Last edited by old-sailer; 04-22-2014 at 04:29 PM.
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Old 04-22-2014, 04:54 PM
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Better yet; replace with steel nipple.
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Old 04-22-2014, 05:41 PM
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Picked up a #4 screw extractor and a pair of brass nipples at a plumbing supply house. The extractor is pretty good sized and I'm not too concerned about breaking it off. Will hopefully get this done tomorrow.

Old -Sailor... Think your're an idiot? you should have been around last summer when I drilled a hole in the bottom of my boat. Couldn't for the life of me figure out where the water was coming from !!
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Old 04-22-2014, 06:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsmickey19 View Post
Picked up a #4 screw extractor and a pair of brass nipples at a plumbing supply house. The extractor is pretty good sized and I'm not too concerned about breaking it off. Will hopefully get this done tomorrow.

Old -Sailor... Think your're an idiot? you should have been around last summer when I drilled a hole in the bottom of my boat. Couldn't for the life of me figure out where the water was coming from !!

Easyout extractors are a contradiction of terms...I would stay away from them.

Caveat emptor!

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Old 04-22-2014, 06:56 PM
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I'm not addressing this to anyone in particular and please forgive my incredulity but why in the world would you go back to the same installation that already proved itself (1) delicate and (2) vulnerable? Instead of "Now I make sure I don't go anywhere near the damn thing" why not get it out of its precarious position and never have to make this repair again?

Some of us have replaced the nipple with a short brass hose barb adapter and relocated the sender to an adjacent bulkhead connected with a short length of 300 psi hose (available at NAPA). Mine is an oil pressure sensor array with the gauge sender, electric fuel pump OPSS and Cole-Hersee switch for the EWDS, all securely mounted to a bulkhead.
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Old 04-22-2014, 08:12 PM
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I had the 6'' 1/8 water pipe nap off flush at the block
I thought ,Here we go
I found a set of these extractors 1/8'' to 3/8''
you just tap it into the center of the pipe and put a socket on the other end ,
worked flawlessly
stay away from Easyouts
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Old 04-23-2014, 12:01 AM
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Dromo, what are those bits? They look like torx. Are they for broken bolt removal?

What is the brand, please tell. Looks interesting.

Guys, please tell us the specific brand that you have had success with. There are many easy outs available.
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Old 04-23-2014, 12:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ndutton View Post
Some of us have replaced the nipple with a short brass hose barb adapter and relocated the sender to an adjacent bulkhead connected with a short length of 300 psi hose (available at NAPA). Mine is an oil pressure sensor array with the gauge sender, electric fuel pump OPSS and Cole-Hersee switch for the EWDS, all securely mounted to a bulkhead.
That is exactly this weekend's project.
Copying Neil's setup to the "T"... (pun intended)
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Old 04-23-2014, 07:04 AM
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I would stick to using a USCG A1 fire resistant hose...

Extractors break, like drill bits...

Since the snapped off piece is going into an oil gallery I think it would back out without much effort. It's not like it's going to be rusted in place.

I prefer using the spiral flute style of extractor.

Last edited by jstaff; 04-23-2014 at 07:15 AM.
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Old 04-23-2014, 07:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roadnsky View Post
That is exactly this weekend's project.
Copying Neil's setup to the "T"... (pun intended)
Two Tee's and an elbow in my case. Be sure to run a ground wire from the block to the sensor array.
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Old 04-23-2014, 07:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ndutton View Post
I'm not addressing this to anyone in particular and please forgive my incredulity but why in the world would you go back to the same installation that already proved itself (1) delicate and (2) vulnerable? Instead of "Now I make sure I don't go anywhere near the damn thing" why not get it out of its precarious position and never have to make this repair again?

Some of us have replaced the nipple with a short brass hose barb adapter and relocated the sender to an adjacent bulkhead connected with a short length of 300 psi hose (available at NAPA). Mine is an oil pressure sensor array with the gauge sender, electric fuel pump OPSS and Cole-Hersee switch for the EWDS, all securely mounted to a bulkhead.
+ 1 on the above. Unsupported brass nipples in an iron block with weight on the end are a recipe for trouble (personal experience with a brass 1/2" manifold discharge). Convert to barb and hose/copper tubing, and go to iron/steel on the big stuff.
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Old 04-23-2014, 08:29 AM
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Totally different demands than fuel hose. Fuel hose needs to be ethanol-proof and fire resistant. Oil hose needs to be temperature and pressure resistant. 100 PSI is possible on an oil hose and 10 PSI would be a lot on a fuel hose.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jstaff View Post
I would stick to using a USCG A1 fire resistant hose...

Extractors break, like drill bits...

Since the snapped off piece is going into an oil gallery I think it would back out without much effort. It's not like it's going to be rusted in place.

I prefer using the spiral flute style of extractor.
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Old 04-23-2014, 08:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joe_db View Post
Totally different demands than fuel hose. Fuel hose needs to be ethanol-proof and fire resistant. Oil hose needs to be temperature and pressure resistant. 100 PSI is possible on an oil hose and 10 PSI would be a lot on a fuel hose.
I would prefer a Coast Guard approved hose that is fire resistant.... They are obviously "temperature" resistant and often rated for 500 psi.
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Old 04-23-2014, 10:34 AM
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Well if you can find 500 PSI fuel hose then you have all bases covered

Quote:
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I would prefer a Coast Guard approved hose that is fire resistant.... They are obviously "temperature" resistant and often rated for 500 psi.
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Old 04-23-2014, 12:02 PM
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Well if you can find 500 PSI fuel hose then you have all bases covered
http://www.gates.com/products/indust...-fuel-line-500
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Old 04-23-2014, 04:42 PM
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romantic comedy
Your right , they are almost the same a torx but the teeth are twice as long
I haven't tried them on a broken bolt yet and hope that I never have to.
Easyouts put a lot of outward stress on the metal / block ,
I'm guessing here ! due to the reverse threads
,easyouts could & can crack the softer metal A-4 block .
what I like about these bit is that , you just hammer /tap,tap,tap, them in and you can use a socket with a extension for those hard to get to places
Again Stay away from (*&$#$%%^&^*(easyouts
I'll try and fined out more info on them next time I'm at Princess auto in Canada
Mo , you should be familiar with this store ?
cheers Rick

Last edited by Dromo; 04-23-2014 at 04:47 PM.
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