Part exchange from late to early A4

[nyvoyager]

Dan yes I believe a temp sensor threaded into the head.
The gear lever moves from what normally should be neutral and moves back. it does not move forward - and i think forward is reverse. Any ideas?
Reverse gear adjustment?
The distributor cap issue you mentioned earlier - the cap does not appear to fit correctly. I can move it easily by hand several degrees. I am wondering if it is the correct cap. It does indeed have electronic ignition
Thanks for the link

[nyvoyager]

Sam i have a nearly new MMI Water pump i may change it out for. First i want to get it running and see what i have. fingers crossed

[nyvoyager]

Interesting - so according to the diagram in the link, the dole Tstat is installed after the exhaust manifold. I would not have thought that.
And a hot return line tee'd into the raw water intake.
There is no by-pass so how does this work with a cold engine and a closed thermostat? Wouldn't it back up into the manifold?
Something doesn't appear right to me and i suspect the tstat belongs before the manifold?

[Marian Claire]

"There is no by-pass so how does this work with a cold engine and a closed thermostat? Wouldn't it back up into the manifold?"
My understanding is that with the Dole T-stat all the water exiting the manifold passes thru the T-stat. No restriction, no back up. It goes out one side or the other. When cold most of the water enters the re-circulation loop and mixes back in with the incoming raw water. Some water flows to the wet/dry exhaust connection, water lift and out the exhaust. As the engine/water warms up the T-stat adjusts and sends less water to the loop and more water to exhaust.
This is one of the beauties of the re-circulation loop. 100% flow thru the engine all the time. What is adjusted is the temp of the water entering the cooling system.
You can accomplish the same thing using a valve instead of a T-stat. I have been running this way for years in water from 45 to 80 degrees.
Dan
S/V Marian Claire
Edit: If you are concerned about water backing up into the cylinders remember that the manifold dry side and wet side are separated. Water has to fill up the waterlift muffler and back up the dry exhaust before it can enter the cylinders.

[Marian Claire]

"The gear lever moves from what normally should be neutral and moves back. it does not move forward - and i think forward is reverse. Any ideas?"
Others may have better ideas/info. I believe moving the lever towards the flywheel puts the gear in forward. Have you tried turning the shaft with the lever in what you think is neutral? I'm guessing my lever only travels about 30 degrees. Reverse and neutral use up only a few degrees of this. You can feel the reversing gear locking into forward. Reverse does not do this.
Hope that makes sense.
Dan
S/V Marian Claire

[nyvoyager]

Your cooling description is starting to make sense to me Dan - Thanks
The valve in lieu of a thermostat is also interesting and seems fairly fail safe.
I'll delve into this a bit more once I get it running.
Gearbox - okay maybe I am wrong - it has a good amount of movement. Will check it again on Sunday when I am next out to the boat.
I did take the lever off my old engine as the hole positions are different and will swap it out

[nyvoyager]

I'm baffled by the distributor. The notch in the casing does not align with the projection cap or the spring. What am a missing?

[ndutton]

I'm baffled by the distributor. The notch in the casing does not align with the projection cap or the spring. What am a missing?

Wrong cap?

[nyvoyager]

I suppose. It's the only thing I can think of. I just hope it is not a sign of how this thing was put together.
Looking at the MMI distributor the lug is in the same position...still baffled

[ndutton]

Cap mounted 180° out? Where is the tab that fits in the notch?

[nyvoyager]

Anything is possible. Thanks I'll definitely check it

[Sam]

This is early model Prestolite distributor and their is a third possibility besides wrong cap or 180 out of phase. I once picked up an ebay "rebuilt" prestolite dizzy, about $60 -75 bucks, should have been suspicious of the deal. It was real clean but the center cam shaft extended about 3/16th to high. With the cap positioned in the slot there was rotor interference with the cap contacts - would not freely spin without some clicking. The cap positioned as pictured provided clearance. I never installed it however, -thought some parts might come in handy.

[Sam]

Just another comment - the Dole T state housing after the manifold w/ recirculating loop takes a special t state, 140 F, originaly to avoid salt from forming particulates out of salt water. Moyer sells one that fits advertised at 155 F. My Morgan 34 has been in Lake Michigan for 53 yrs, I'm still on my second T-state and have one for a spare. Note, through a small hole some water is always mixing with exhaust even with a cold/cool engine - causes a little white steam. Only once did I have some water back up into the cylinders. Sailing in strong following seas, water filled up the horizontal exhaust line and the stand pipe. By poor design the boat's exhaust port is centered aft only a couple inches above the water line. Later added an accessible lever ball valve to exhaust line to close when sailing in the chop. FYI, the recirculating set up w/T state causes a "surge" effect with exhaust water, nothing wrong when you see that.

[nyvoyager]

Thanks Sam for your insight. I don't think the shaft is to high, in fact i think the cap is not making contact with the rotor but I will check tomorrow as well as it possibly being 180 out - if that is true this will be the first cap i have ever seen not symmetrical.
I've decided to slow down, get this right and not launch this summer ..oh well there is next year

[nyvoyager]

Okay some more progress. The cap was 180 degrees out. Easy enough. One of the old down springs is broken. Anyone have a source to replace them?
Prop shaft attached and 95 percent aligned. Starter wired, Alternator mounted (still need to sort wiring), raw water hooked up and exhaust all booted up.
A bit more wiring, check rough timing fix the dizzy and I should be ready to fire it up. Fingers crossed.