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  #26   IP: 174.254.130.254
Old 02-14-2020, 12:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ndutton View Post
Why not go the full Monty from the start? Make it as good as it can be. As for the thermostat, for the time being I'd remove it and close the bypass as a temporary measure until you get the engine running the way it should (you do have the bypass valve, right?) She'll be a little cold blooded but that can be dealt with later.

Right now I'd dial in the engine running off the auxiliary tank, then get after the on board fuel delivery problem.
Roger that. Letís keep in touch to coordinate a time when you are available. I could even come by to see you if thatís more convenient for you.

As for the thermostat, I do have the bypass. Iíll close it, but whatís the purpose of removing the thermostat if the bypass is closed? And I open the thru hull valve though when running the engine, right?
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  #27   IP: 174.254.130.254
Old 02-14-2020, 12:56 PM
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whatís the purpose of removing the thermostat if the bypass is closed? And I open the thru hull valve though when running the engine, right?
Oh, you mean just figuratively remove the thermostat from the picture by closing the bypass, rather than physically/actually removing the thermostat
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  #28   IP: 70.185.132.167
Old 02-14-2020, 01:08 PM
JOHN COOKSON JOHN COOKSON is offline
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Originally Posted by Ando View Post
Btw, last night she started up for a bit with the idle mix turned an extra quarter turn clockwise and died and wouldnít start up again. This morning I set the idle mixture back counter-clockwise and she started, stayed running for about a minute and died again. l
Sounds like you are running on one bowl full of fuel. Then the engine dies. If you have an electronic fuel pump try shorting across or bypassing the OPSS.

ex TRUE GRIT
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  #29   IP: 70.185.132.167
Old 02-14-2020, 01:15 PM
JOHN COOKSON JOHN COOKSON is offline
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Originally Posted by Ando View Post
Roger that.
As for the thermostat, I do have the bypass. Iíll close it, but whatís the purpose of removing the thermostat if the bypass is closed? thru hull valve
The thermostat by just being in place physically blocks some of the flow through the engine. With the thermostat removed the passage through the engine is wide open.

ex TRUE GRIT
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  #30   IP: 174.254.130.254
Old 02-14-2020, 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by JOHN COOKSON View Post
The thermostat by just being in place physically blocks some of the flow through the engine. With the thermostat removed the passage through the engine is wide open.

ex TRUE GRIT
I see, but the bypass being closed prevents water going through that area anyway, right? The ďbypassĒ to me means the valve between the water jacket and the thermostat...or is it something else?
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  #31   IP: 174.254.130.254
Old 02-14-2020, 01:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JOHN COOKSON View Post
Sounds like you are running on one bowl full of fuel. Then the engine dies. If you have an electronic fuel pump try shorting across or bypassing the OPSS.

ex TRUE GRIT
Yes, it does seem like Iím running on a bowl. Very true. OPSS has been bypassed.
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  #32   IP: 174.254.130.254
Old 02-14-2020, 02:15 PM
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I see, but the bypass being closed prevents water going through that area anyway, right? The ďbypassĒ to me means the valve between the water jacket and the thermostat...or is it something else?
Ohh, bc water also enters the thermostat area from the ports within the block itself. I recall seeing those ports now. I think I understand now.
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  #33   IP: 24.152.132.140
Old 02-14-2020, 07:25 PM
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Take out the thermostat, close the bypass valve, open the intake thru-hull when the engine is running, close it during prolonged cranking (no-start or hard-start). Next time I'm there I'll explain the why and wherefore in detail.
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  #34   IP: 100.36.65.17
Old 02-15-2020, 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Ando View Post
... Iím not planning on starting her up again until I get some suggestions on how to re-work this thermostat housing so that it doesnít leak water.
When I read this thread, two possibilities came to mind:
  1. aftermarket single-spring thermostats are a bit taller than the OEM Holley ones, and require a spacer to fit properly. Moyer sells them.
  2. The OEM cast iron thermostat covers tend to corrode badly over time, and may not seal properly. A Bronze replacement cover from Moyer fixes that.
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  #35   IP: 76.86.241.44
Old 02-15-2020, 05:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edwardc View Post
When I read this thread, two possibilities came to mind:
  1. aftermarket single-spring thermostats are a bit taller than the OEM Holley ones, and require a spacer to fit properly. Moyer sells them.
  2. The OEM cast iron thermostat covers tend to corrode badly over time, and may not seal properly. A Bronze replacement cover from Moyer fixes that.
Thank you, I think that spacer might help too. I have the single action after market one as well as the bronze housing. No spacer tho. Let me try the things ndutton is saying and solve those e fine start up issues and then Iíll move on to the thermostat leak.
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  #36   IP: 24.152.132.140
Old 02-16-2020, 08:53 PM
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Update on the Ando project
We had a very brief session at his boat today, like maybe 30 minutes but here is what we learned:
  1. SHE RUNS!! And quite smoothly but not without a few issues yet to solve.
  2. We ran it off an auxiliary tank to eliminate known on board fuel storage and delivery problems, to be solved later.
  3. The OPSS has been bypassed for the time being, we'll add it back in when the engine is running properly.
  4. It would only run on 3/4 choke. Any less would threaten a stall. The carburetor will come off again for a thorough cleaning and inspection, the vacuum port (PCV) spacer is coming off to minimize potential vacuum leaks, the manifold bolts will be torqued down. If there is no improvement, I have a known-good spare carburetor we will install.
  5. There is good water flow out the exhaust.
  6. I dropped off the high temperature pipe sealant mentioned earlier so he can eliminate his exhaust leaks.
  7. Batteries are still anemic, slated for replacement.
  8. Ando has a gorgeous new MMI thermostat and it is clear he did not have it properly seated in the housing groove (crescent shaped scar on the flat base plate). It is removed for now but will be added back in later. No spacer needed.
  9. I took a more accurate coil resistance measurement with my better tester, 3.8Ω.
Ando is solving problems one at a time and making progress so thus far I'm calling it a success. He's got the bug, would rather tinker on the engine than go to work. Who among us hasn't been there?
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Last edited by ndutton; 02-16-2020 at 11:28 PM.
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  #37   IP: 45.49.35.172
Old 02-17-2020, 07:53 PM
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He's got the bug, would rather tinker on the engine than go to work. Who among us hasn't been there?
I did play (a little) hookie from work yesterday
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  #38   IP: 32.211.28.40
Old 02-18-2020, 09:13 PM
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Neil,
You inspire the rest of us to go beyond the call of duty! Or, perhaps shame us! Well done.
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  #39   IP: 24.152.132.140
Old 02-18-2020, 09:28 PM
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Thank you Al but really all I'm doing is paying it forward. Throughout my lifetime I've benefited from advice/tutoring/instruction from a variety of people and not only about engines. Now it's my turn to help if I can.

Ando is by his own admission a complete newbie and is eager to learn. Being a newbie is not a bad thing because he doesn't bring bad habits with him. He is the one who has been turning the wrenches, not me. All I've done is a little hint here, a little nudge there. When he is through he will have done a complete engine swap including considerable troubleshooting.

He'll be helping someone else in the not too distant future, I'm sure of it.
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  #40   IP: 45.49.35.172
Old Yesterday, 12:14 AM
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Neil,
You inspire the rest of us to go beyond the call of duty!
Agreed...yes he does
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  #41   IP: 45.49.35.172
Old Yesterday, 12:28 AM
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He'll be helping someone else in the not too distant future, I'm sure of it.
Thanks for the vote of confidence, Neil. I'd love that.
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