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  #1   IP: 172.249.104.171
Old 02-04-2020, 08:47 PM
CamaroMan CamaroMan is offline
 
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blowby issue when under load - smokey!

Hi all - have a a4.. just replaced the head gasket (it blew) - was an old asbestos one.. head wasnt warped.. just did a nice block sand and its holding well.

Now when under throttle, after a while there is quite a bit of smoke coming from the filler cap making it quite unpleasant below.

The card was rebuilt, the vent hose is in good shape.. seems either the valve guides are real bad (oil being pulled in when hot) and a certain amount of blowby-

Usually blowby is mostly air, but the smoke seems to indicate oil. Fyi new oil 5 hours ago and still very clean.

Any ideas? iirc weight was a 10w30-

Is there an option to put a cap on with a hose to the air intake or maybe block it off and force the vapors thru the carb via the intake?
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  #2   IP: 155.186.124.219
Old 02-05-2020, 10:12 AM
Dave Neptune Dave Neptune is offline
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CamaroMan, Indigo makes a PCV kit for just what you are talking about. Frankly I would not run an A-4 without one!!! These engines were designed before the PCV valve was invented. The designers did engineer a slash tube to try for the same thing, the valve just works better and is far more efficient at reducing blowby fumes from the engine.

Do you use your blower full time or just to start. Gasoline engines should have a full time blower no exceptions for safety! IMHO

The other cause/remedy is to much lead in the timing. IE your timing needs to be set and probably is to advanced. Try backing the timing up a bit ab=nd be sure the c-advance is functioning.

Dave Neptune
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  #3   IP: 172.249.104.171
Old 02-05-2020, 10:52 AM
CamaroMan CamaroMan is offline
 
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thanks dave - will try the timing and look into the pcv kit! I kinda did set the timing by ear - motor warmed well, in gear at dock and around 2500-3k rpms.. rotate to when rpms just start to increase near max under load- I have no access to the flywheel.. starts and ticks over quite easy-


fyi how would timing cause blow by? pushing back past rings while piston still moving up?

Guess ill have to go and remove #1 plug, use a straw, find the center of the dwell and paint on a dab on water pump body and pulley
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  #4   IP: 155.186.124.219
Old 02-05-2020, 11:49 AM
Dave Neptune Dave Neptune is offline
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CaamaroMan, it is the "timing" of the fuel burn that makes pressure against the piston creating your power. If the burn starts to soon the pressure increases faster than the piston can react causing an excessive load on the rings to seal and thus "blowing" by a bit. When the burn is right the cylinder pressure is more constant and the "leverage angles" of the rod against the crank increase as the cylinder pressure increases creating a happy "torque" making engine.

The A-4 has very low compression and requires a very low pressure fuel to make smooth reliable power. Regular grade gas of today is designed for far higher compression. For this reason using Premium grades is a waste and if we could find a lower octane fuel it would work better in the A-4. The fuels of long ago would barely run in todays engines.

Setting the timing by ear is fine if you are careful. Do it at a good hard cruising speed on the water if possible or even against the dock lines. Be sure she is all warmed up and the distributor is loose enough to rotate but stay in place when released. Slowly rotate until a max RPM is reached then "retard the timing just a tiny bit which will smooth it out and loose very few RPM. This will make a good smooth running engine.

Dave Neptune

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  #5   IP: 70.185.132.167
Old 02-05-2020, 07:38 PM
JOHN COOKSON JOHN COOKSON is offline
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How long has it been since you serviced the advance?
If the flyweights are sticking or moving with friction the timing will never be correct.


ex TRUE GRIT
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  #6   IP: 32.211.28.40
Old 02-05-2020, 08:11 PM
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Al Schober Al Schober is offline
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Based on your replacing a copper/asbestos head gasket, it's been a LONG time since someone's been into that engine (perhaps never). IMHO, it's very likely that it needs rings. Good news is that's likely ALL it needs. I'd recommend you plan on pulling the engine (at your convenience, good therapeutic winter job) and going through it.
Bearings may be fine - do some diagnostics on your oil pressure. How is your oil pressure currently? What pressures do you get if you tighten/loosen the oil pressure adjustment?
Dave's tuning suggestions may reduce the blowby to the point where you can live with it until you do the rings. Running the blower (sucker?) will certainly help.
Engine in the shop/basement is a good time to clean it out and convert to glycol cooling (heat exchanger) if you don't already have it.
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