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  #1   IP: 73.163.134.203
Old 09-24-2015, 01:50 PM
Sailrite Sailrite is offline
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Machine shop in Baltimore / Annapolis area

I'm looking for a machine shop in Baltimore or Annapolis. I'm going to try my hand at rebuilding my atomic 4. I would like to have it Magnifluxed and hot tanked along with other machining if necessary.

Thanks
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  #2   IP: 32.211.28.40
Old 09-24-2015, 06:32 PM
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Last rebuild I did, I asked my local auto shop (an independent that I trust) who they used for their cylinder head work. Took the bits and pieces to them, discussed the work, and turned them loose. They did a fine job. They even installed hardened inserts in the exhaust valve seats without asking me - no extra charge.
Take pictures as you go - we like pictures.
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  #3   IP: 73.163.134.203
Old 09-25-2015, 01:59 PM
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Thanks. I'll take lots of pictures.
I have a 27 Catalina . I'm also considering pulling the engine out of the boat myself. Has anyone had experience doing this?
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  #4   IP: 66.102.6.175
Old 09-25-2015, 02:39 PM
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[YOUTUBE]-YmtKKGj0eI[/YOUTUBE]

[YOUTUBE]-AXTirTQ5d8[/YOUTUBE]

I think there are others buried somewhere in the forum.

Bill

Last edited by Administrator; 09-25-2015 at 02:43 PM.
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  #5   IP: 32.211.28.40
Old 09-25-2015, 03:33 PM
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Interesting videos - they're lucky they didn't bend their boom.
Recommend taking the engine weight directly to the main halyard. Just use the boom to 'outhaul' the lift point - tighten the outhaul to move the engine aft and out of the companionway. A strap will hold the halyard or tackle close to the boom so the engine can be swung over the side under control.
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Old 09-25-2015, 03:51 PM
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Has anyone taken the motor apart and just lifted the pieces out of the boat? How much does just the block weigh?
The yard I'm going to take the boat to charges $180 to lift the engine out. Might be worth it. Instead of dropping the engine in the drink and bending the boom.
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  #7   IP: 107.0.6.242
Old 09-25-2015, 10:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sailrite View Post
Has anyone taken the motor apart and just lifted the pieces out of the boat? How much does just the block weigh?
The yard I'm going to take the boat to charges $180 to lift the engine out. Might be worth it. Instead of dropping the engine in the drink and bending the boom.
If the yard will hook your engine and plop it in the back of your truck for 180...take the deal. Even if you strip the engine to the block that still leaves the crank, pistons, oil pan and you making a mess in the boat.
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  #8   IP: 132.147.29.249
Old 09-26-2015, 09:09 AM
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I always remove the manifold and starter before moving the engine. That gets it down around maybe 300 pounds or so I think, maybe less. I know in my younger days two of us could pick the engine up - barely.
My boat has easy access for the main halyard, so I can do it DIY. $180 isn't a bad price, I would think about that too.
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Old 09-26-2015, 08:37 PM
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Smile

It has been my observation over the years that, if you take a carburetor (or a Volkswagen engine) apart and put it together enough times, you will eventually have two of them.
"Car Talk"

I wonder if this applies to A4s?
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Old 09-29-2015, 10:25 PM
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I know it applies to the A4 engine. I think there's a survey here someplace about how many spare engines folks have. Personally, I moved 13 month ago, so a lot of the 'pieces' went away. I'm now down to one complete spare engine, plus some extra carbs, fuel pumps, distributors, etc. All the extra 'iron' went to the scrap yard - at least the stuff Hanley didn't want.
At times I think it also applies to the whole boat!
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  #11   IP: 71.178.82.252
Old 09-29-2015, 10:32 PM
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Thumbs up

sailrite, Welcome to the forum. Hanley has good advice, and you are already learning..or have experience..especially if you know old VW motors.

I agree with Hanley that the $180 is worth the cost. However, there are lots of us in the Chesapeake area that never mind helping. Ajax is on the West River, there are a few on the Eastern Shore and I am an hour-ish south of Annapolis. Might be a fun Saturday project if we are not too busy with our own boats.

The A-4 weighs around 310 lbs if I have my facts straight from cncphotoalbum.com. I think that is a full motor weight. The manifold and starter are about 15-20 each, the head maybe 30??, but it is still heavy, even if you strip all the stuff off of it.

Whatever path your choose we can help you out!
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Last edited by sastanley; 09-29-2015 at 10:35 PM.
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  #12   IP: 73.163.134.203
Old 09-30-2015, 08:09 PM
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Smile

I agree with Hanley that the $180 is worth the cost. However, there are lots of us in the Chesapeake area that never mind helping. Ajax is on the West River, there are a few on the Eastern Shore and I am an hour-ish south of Annapolis. Might be a fun Saturday project if we are not too busy with our own boats.

Thanks I haven't pulled the boat out yet. I will in the next week or so.

I love fixing old stuff. I used to have International Harvester Scouts. Hence the name of my boat "Scout". I used the decal from the truck for the lettering.
I also fixed up old Lambretta scooters and early model honda cb motorcycles.

Talking to people that know what they are doing is always a great help.

Thanks again, and i may take you up on that and if not that at least some advice.

Last edited by Sailrite; 09-30-2015 at 08:12 PM.
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  #13   IP: 71.118.13.238
Old 10-01-2015, 03:10 PM
Dave Neptune Dave Neptune is online now
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Sailrite, was the quote for in and out, many are. Also many yards will only charge a small amount extra for an IN&OUT as opposed to "one way".

Might be worth asking and is probably cheaper than cleaners, a chiropractor and liquid bread.

Dave Neptune
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Old 10-03-2015, 07:54 PM
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I talked to the marina and they told me that its $180.00 plus $30.00. Not really sure why they just say $210.00.
Anyway i'm going to pull the engine myself. I started to take everything i can take off off. I'm having truble with the head. I can't seam to get it off. I can only raise it about a 1/4 inch. I think its jamming on the studs.

I'm sure I'm going to have lots of questions. I'm not sure if i should start another thread?? I did find a machine shop. Really nice guy. Kind of old school though.
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Old 10-03-2015, 08:08 PM
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Here are some pictures.
Attached Images
    
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Old 10-03-2015, 09:27 PM
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Is the head loose? The head is what the lifting eye attaches to.
What is that goo under the head?
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Old 10-04-2015, 09:05 AM
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I had to pry the head up to that point. The gasket was really stuck. The Goo is gasket and PB blaster.
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Old 10-04-2015, 09:47 AM
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Question

Do you have a plan for how to proceed from this point? Once the head is off you will not be able to use a lift from the top. Do you plan to move the engine aft and then turn it onto the flywheel housing? Or are you able to lift the engine by hand, pan, crank etc still installed?
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Old 10-04-2015, 11:03 AM
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I need to slide it out of the engine compartment. I can't lift it strait up. I'll then lift it to the cockpit using straps. Reposition it so I can lift it off the boat.

I'm also thinking that i can reinstall the lifting bracket if i need too. I was surprised that the head is so hard to get off.
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Old 10-04-2015, 12:08 PM
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Don't forget to drain the oil before lifting - a slight tilt forward and you could have a mess. I would advise against using the head studs for lifting with the head removed. The strap idea is good. Run a line to the output shaft for 3 point control.
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Old 10-05-2015, 08:05 AM
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Unhappy

Does anyone know about removing the head? Is it normal for it to be really hard to remove?
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  #22   IP: 107.0.6.242
Old 10-05-2015, 08:20 AM
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Talking

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sailrite View Post
Does anyone know about removing the head? Is it normal for it to be really hard to remove?
It is normal and especially on late heads. The two studs that double as fasteners for the thermostat housing are usually the problem. Light machine oil or even PB Blaster drizzled down the studs can help. It is important to raise the head evenly for greatest ease of removal. Be patient and try to avoid using sharp tools that can damage the mating surfaces. Some members use wooden wedges.
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  #23   IP: 161.213.49.150
Old 10-05-2015, 11:20 AM
JOHN COOKSON JOHN COOKSON is offline
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If you can turn the engine with the starter loosen\remove the nuts on the studs put the spark plugs in and crank the engine to see if you can loosen the head a bit.

TRUE GRIT
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Old 10-05-2015, 07:07 PM
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Thanks. I had to use a jack to move the head up just to get a flat putty knife between the head and block. I removed the thermostat studs and all but one stud on the left side came out with the nuts.
Could there be that much rust on the studs or is it that tight of a fit? Probably both?

Last edited by Sailrite; 10-05-2015 at 07:26 PM.
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  #25   IP: 98.171.163.28
Old 10-06-2015, 01:39 AM
JOHN COOKSON JOHN COOKSON is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hanleyclifford View Post
Light machine oil or even PB Blaster drizzled down the studs can help.
Light tapping on the studs along with PB Blaster (or your favorite goop) will help also. Don't peen the ends of the studs but if you do you can cut them off or grind the peen away.

TRUE GRIT
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