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  #1   IP: 174.58.92.14
Old 07-29-2012, 12:23 AM
S1lverfox S1lverfox is offline
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Cool New Tartan 27 Member

I owned a Tartan 27 during the 1980s, moved to a Hunter 30, and now moving back to to my second Tartan 27, a 1969, and I'm reworking the A4 at this time.
I purchased a used Delco Distributor with the Ignitor electronic upgrade, but did not receive any paperwork with it. I need to know how it is wired and how to time it to the engine. Can anyone help?
I assume the coil should also be changed. I see that Pertronics sells a 40,000 volt coil. internally resisted, in several different resistances, 1.5 ohm, 3 ohm and 6 ohm. which one do I need?
I notice that the RJ12C spark plug is used with the Indigo electronic distributor. Is this plug also preferred over the J8C for the Ignitor ignition?
One last question. Because I'm on a tight budget, I'm painting my A4 with 500 degree BLUE engine paint instead of the standard Gold. Do you think that this will affect performance in any way? I hope not.
Thanks for your time. My e-mail address: 2syklman@comcast.net
Bob P. - Port Charlotte, FL . Tartan 27 "Kathe P"
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  #2   IP: 184.0.105.143
Old 07-29-2012, 01:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S1lverfox View Post
I owned a Tartan 27 during the 1980s, moved to a Hunter 30, and now moving back to to my second Tartan 27, a 1969, and I'm reworking the A4 at this time.
I purchased a used Delco Distributor with the Ignitor electronic upgrade, but did not receive any paperwork with it. I need to know how it is wired and how to time it to the engine. Can anyone help?
I assume the coil should also be changed. I see that Pertronics sells a 40,000 volt coil. internally resisted, in several different resistances, 1.5 ohm, 3 ohm and 6 ohm. which one do I need?
I notice that the RJ12C spark plug is used with the Indigo electronic distributor. Is this plug also preferred over the J8C for the Ignitor ignition?
One last question. Because I'm on a tight budget, I'm painting my A4 with 500 degree BLUE engine paint instead of the standard Gold. Do you think that this will affect performance in any way? I hope not.
Bob-
Wow. A lot of questions to answer! Let's see if I can get you started...

But first, WELCOME to the forum!

Quote:
I purchased a used Delco Distributor with the Ignitor electronic upgrade, but did not receive any paperwork with it. I need to know how it is wired and how to time it to the engine. Can anyone help?
Finding TDC before timing:
Remove all spark plugs and rotate the engine in a counterclockwise direction until you begin to feel compression in the first cylinder. Stop turning at the first sign of compression, and then continue to slowly rotate the engine while observing the roll pin in the center of the flywheel. Stop turning when the roll pin is vertical. The engine is now set with the first cylinder at Top Dead Center (TDC) of its compression stroke.

Basic Static Timing:
Connect a 12 volt timing light across the primary terminals of the coil and rotate the housing of the distributor a small distance in each direction (with the ignition switch on) to locate the point where the light turns off. Retighten the hold-down bracket. This is the point in the engine rotation where the secondary discharge occurs which will be sent to the number one cylinder (at the flywheel end of the engine).

NOTE: On late model engines, it's most convenient if the tip of the rotor is pointing directly away from the block at the TDC of the number one cylinder. In this orientation, there will be proper clearance between the distributor cap and the alternator belt. On early model engines, the tip of the rotor should be pointing aft when at number one TDC to insure good clearance between the belt and the retaining clips of the cap.

Be certain that the plug wires are installed in the proper locations. With the engine still at the number one TDC position, the lead to the first cylinder (at the flywheel end) should be installed in the post of the distributor cap located directly over the tip of the rotor.

The remaining plug wires are installed in a clockwise orientation around the distributor cap in the order of the engine's firing sequence (1, 2, 4 and 3). This means that the plug lead from the distributor cap post directly to the right of number one goes to the second cylinder from the flywheel, the next post to the fourth cylinder (at the transmission end), and the lead from the next post to number three. You should then be back at the post for cylinder number one.

This link is an excellent procedure for finding TDC and static timing...
http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/sh...2930&highlight

Quote:
I assume the coil should also be changed. I see that Pertronics sells a 40,000 volt coil. internally resisted, in several different resistances, 1.5 ohm, 3 ohm and 6 ohm. which one do I need?
BEFORE you purchase a coil, please read this thread!
http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/sh...5748&highlight
Especially, please read Neil's post #105

Then, may I suggest you get your coil from MMI on this site?
(It will save you issues later)

Quote:
I notice that the RJ12C spark plug is used with the Indigo electronic distributor. Is this plug also preferred over the J8C for the Ignitor ignition?
Any of the plugs approved for the A4 will work with an EI.
I'm partial to the Autolite 437's but the RJ12C is fine.

I'll have to leave the paint question for others on the forum.
They'll be along in short order...
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  #3   IP: 68.173.38.216
Old 07-29-2012, 02:42 PM
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Blue paint

The high temp blue engine paint will definitely make your engine run more efficiently! :G

Welcome to the MMI forum.
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A4 and boat are from 1967
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  #4   IP: 174.58.92.14
Old 07-29-2012, 09:39 PM
S1lverfox S1lverfox is offline
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Smile Thank You.

I thank you gentlemen for valuable information. I hope to be doing a test run On a stand) before the end of the coming week. Regards, Bob P.
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  #5   IP: 68.173.38.216
Old 07-30-2012, 01:25 AM
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S1|verfox

I've really grown to like our old 1967 Tartan 27. The Atomic 4 also makes a pretty good power plant I might add.
Have you joined our T27Owners group on yahoo? http://groups.yahoo.com/group/T27Owners/
Good luck with bringing the engine back to life.
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  #6   IP: 68.56.139.11
Old 07-30-2012, 01:42 AM
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You might want to take out another mortgage to be able to buy that gold paint. You need to maintain appearances. You want that invite to join the Port Charlotte Yacht Club, right?
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  #7   IP: 174.58.92.14
Old 07-30-2012, 06:22 AM
S1lverfox S1lverfox is offline
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Yacht club

I think I could buy a Moyer short block for the cost of a yacht club membership. Sorry, I have to pass on this. bp
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  #8   IP: 206.125.176.5
Old 08-01-2012, 10:55 AM
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Thumbs up

S1lverfox,

Welcome to the group.

Blue will look good & give it an extra HP or two, especially if it is "racing blue". Pictures are important so we can inspect your work.

As for the coil, that thread Jerry pointed you to is long and arduous, but you will understand the ignition system after that. The short answer is the 3 Ω coil from Pertronix is probably not enough internal resistance, but it really depends. The one sold at Moyer is something like 4.5 Ω, and seems to perform excellently.

Your coil may be OK. Remove all wires from the (+) & (-) posts, test it with an ohm meter, and report back.
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Last edited by sastanley; 08-01-2012 at 11:16 AM.
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  #9   IP: 173.161.105.209
Old 08-03-2012, 12:56 PM
HOTFLASH HOTFLASH is offline
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Another T27 2-Timer

Silverfox,

I too owned a T27 (mine was a '69), sold it after few years, owned other boats, and went boatless, and then bought another T27, a '75 yawl in 2001. Love it. And love the A4 that I refitted.

You are at the right site for the A4. Welcome!

Mary in Chicago

Last edited by HOTFLASH; 08-03-2012 at 12:57 PM. Reason: spelling
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  #10   IP: 24.188.39.151
Old 08-04-2012, 08:25 AM
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Two timer

Welcome, silver fox.

I'm another second timer, 1966 T27.

Bought the same T 27 exactly 10 years apart, separated by a C&C 34.

Good luck with the A4. Obviously on this forum, you'll be preaching to the choir, but it is a great engine...in a great boat.

I've worked on the 1966 A4 and bought a Moyer rebuild for my C&C. Either way, I'm a believer.

In truth, the only problem I've had is selling the C&C. Too many people bought the marketing hype about the tremendous danger of gas engines.

Since I am NEVER selling my Tartan again, she will always have an Atomic 4!
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  #11   IP: 173.53.22.120
Old 08-04-2012, 08:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CalebD View Post
The high temp blue engine paint will definitely make your engine run more efficiently!
Although hi-temp red paint will work even better!
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  #12   IP: 174.58.92.14
Old 08-12-2012, 01:55 AM
S1lverfox S1lverfox is offline
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Smile Update

Almost ready for test run. I honed the cylinders; replaced the rings; replaced one valve; replaced one broken valve spring; lapped the valve seats; Inspected all components; cleaned interior and exterior; painted exterior poor mans Blue; added Ignitor Ignition. I wired her for running today. On Monday, I'll get the carburetor and the fuel and water setups installed and She'll be ready to go. Bob P.
P.S. Also installed a new MMI coil. Senior A4ers led me through procedures needed. This Forum is a great place!
Attached Images
  

Last edited by S1lverfox; 08-12-2012 at 02:04 AM.
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  #13   IP: 74.108.24.222
Old 08-12-2012, 11:17 PM
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Looking sharp! Nice work.
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  #14   IP: 206.125.176.5
Old 08-13-2012, 12:14 PM
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Thumbs up Oooooooo, pretty blue!

Bob, That's lookin' really nice..let's hope she runs as good as she looks.

After the nightmare I went thru not trusting my engine due to coil/ignition problems, I think you made a wise choice on the MMI coil. It would still be fun to test input voltages, etc. to be sure you know that you are in the "safe zone", but you are starting with the correct components, so that's a big plus.
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"Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109
"Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!)
http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/signaturepics/sigpic3231_6.gif
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