#26
IP: 173.79.39.48
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Quote:
This procedure will help the PBBlaster (or whatever penetrant you're using) to work its way in. Once you have the head partway up, you can use wooden wedges in from the side into the gap between the head and the block to pry it up without damaging the surfaces. You have to keep the head fairly level as you do this or it will bind on the studs.
__________________
@(^.^)@ Ed 1977 Pearson P-323 "Dolce Vita" with rebuilt Atomic-4 |
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to edwardc For This Useful Post: | ||
hanleyclifford (10-08-2015), sastanley (10-08-2015) |
#27
IP: 73.163.134.203
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Engine is out! Now I just have to get it apart.
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#28
IP: 216.115.121.240
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Quote:
Oooooh, Honda cb. Waaay back when, I had a 350 sl that we kluged motocross bars and knobby tires on and thrashed the woods with. We called it an 350 SOB. A very dependable bike. The cb 360 not so. Welcome, Russ
__________________
Whiskeyjack a '68 Columbia 36 rebuilt A-4 with 2:1 "Since when is napping doing nothing?" |
#29
IP: 73.163.134.203
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So the engine is out. I tried to remove the head. I tried the wooden shims, PB blaster, heat , tapping with a hammer, still not budging. I'm going to try the welding the nut on the stud next. Unless someone has some other tricks.
Thanks |
#30
IP: 73.163.134.203
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Nice. I have motocross handle bars on one of my cb750s, no knobby tires. Great bikes.
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#31
IP: 98.171.162.244
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Quote:
TRUE GRIT |
#32
IP: 73.163.134.203
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The head lifts up about an 1/8 to a 1/4 inch. Then stops. I can't get it past the studs.
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#33
IP: 73.163.134.203
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I got the head off. I had to cut one of the bolts off. I cut it off between the head and the block. It was rusted into the head. The others I removed with the welding a nut on the stud trick.
On to the next problem |
#34
IP: 73.163.134.203
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Just some pictures to remember the fun times of removing my A-4.
I do have a question. I'm cleaning up the engine compartment. I'm getting new vent hoses. the old hoses were very close together in the bottom of the engine compartment. Should I put them back in that position or is there a better placement? I figure the exaust hose should be as low as it can be. |
#35
IP: 107.0.6.242
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I see you have 2 hoses showing. Are they both extraction or is one an intake? I have only one, mounted as low as possible near the carburetor. I also have louvered vents in the cockpit to introduce fresh air.
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#36
IP: 73.163.134.203
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One is an intake one is extraction. They were placed very close. I was wondering if the extraction hose was just sucking from the intake.
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#37
IP: 107.0.6.150
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That would be a good bet. My experience is that sailboats have no trouble getting air in due to the foiling effect of air running around the dog house and spilling into the companionway. Best to focus on extraction, the lower the better.
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#38
IP: 73.213.99.85
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So I've finally have my boat ready to launch but with out my Atomic 4 in it. (I have a outboard on now). Im still trying to find a machine shop in the Baltimore Annapolis area. One place told me not to take it anywhere but Moyer Marine. I really don't want to spend $6000.00 for a rebuilt engine if I can freshen mine up. any suggestions?
History of engine Spent most of its life in lake Erie Now lives in Annapolis. Four summers ago it over heated , the impeller broke. It sat for a couple of months but it always turned over. I could never get it started. I finally took it out last fall. Thanks |
#39
IP: 50.163.158.204
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My guess is that you could drive the engine to MMI and get as assessment as to what needs to be done and what you can do yourself.
If I still lived in Annapolis, that is exactly what I would do with my disassembled engine. (and I have rebuilt many engines) |
#40
IP: 132.147.29.249
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http://vosbury-marine.com/
They are - or were - the only local place I would trust with an Atomic 4. They do good work, but they are not a bargain basement operation. http://www.moyermarine.com/new_bare_block_assembly.htm This will cost you $2400 and you can do the work from there. my luck with random automotive engine shops was mixed at best. One of them specifically said no more A4 work! |
#41
IP: 70.186.203.99
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If you can't find anyone locally and don't mind a few hours of driving, Apples Machine in Newport News, VA has a lot of experience with A-4's.
http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9030 http://www.applesmachineshop.com/
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Pearson 10M Gloucester, Va |
#42
IP: 73.213.99.85
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$575.00 sounds much better then $2400.00 but the drive is a little far. Although it might be worth it.
Has anyone gone to Moyer and had them tell you what needs to be done? Thanks |
#43
IP: 137.200.32.22
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Some Google-Fu for you:
http://www.jbsautomachine.com/ http://www.ellisonsmachineshop.com/services.html http://www.mdautomarine.com/Marine_E...ebuilding.html I know NOTHING about any of them except they came up on the following search: antique engine machine shop Annapolis marine IMHO shops that deal with antique marine engines are far more likely to have a clue about fixing an A4 than a shop that only does cars. YMMV and IMHO. BTW - did you get the Moyer rebuild manual? That would be money very well spent for this project. Also: http://smd.craigslist.org/bpo/5787637237.html Last edited by joe_db; 09-29-2016 at 11:49 AM. |
#44
IP: 73.213.99.85
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Thanks
Ellison is the shop that told me to go to Moyer. I'll check the others. |
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