Water Fountain

[GregH]

So This happened today...

[YOUTUBE]ajqyXUaADcY[/YOUTUBE]

Coming from a spot at the top of the side plate.

[Surcouf]

hopefully it is the plate or the gasket, and not the block.

The water jacket plate leak is a very classic. Mine failed (a small hole in the middle of the plate, that became a huge one when I removed it and scatched the surface with my nail, metal was gone), and I was able to change it quickly thanks to MM, without having to install the studs kit.

You are running on the lake, and so not spreading salted water in your engine bay; I would not loose a day of sailing for that... Personally I would order all material from MM as I know it takes a little more time to get their deliveries to Canada (permatex too!!), yank something soft into that hole to reduce the leak to a minimum flow and enjoy the week end on the water.

I had to change that gasket last week, it took me the best of 2.5 hours, but all bolts came out easily as I had installed that plate a few weeks prior.
Good luck!

[Dave Neptune]

Greg, looks like it may be the "aft" blick drain. If it failed it would squirt onto the drive pulley.

Dave Neptune

[GregH]

[YOUTUBE]ljvx73ofl6E[/YOUTUBE]

I think it's between the side plate and the block. But I'll know better once I remove the alternator.

[Surcouf]

Is that the first time you use it this season? If not, please discard my comment.

If it is the first time of the season, I would be concerned: this does it look like it comes from the plate itself, but above the plate. And I think I have seen on the forum several blocks that cracked at that same location... maybe due to freezing. Once again it is hard to see on the video, and until generator is removed there is nothing sure... but it does not look great...

[joe_db]

Greg, looks like it may be the "aft" blick drain. If it failed it would squirt onto the drive pulley.

Dave Neptune

Yes - that happened to me.

[JOHN COOKSON]

Me Three

There was a plain iron nipple with cap on it in the drain hole in the engine. The nipple was the sacrificial metal on my RWC engine. The threads in the block were not affected. I replaced the nipple with a brass plug using thread compound (AKA pipe dope) so the plug would seal and so I could remove the plug later if I wanted to.

I didn't notice the leak until one day while I was under way I noticed the carpet in the cabin was floating. I thought the boat was sinking. I guess it really was. Made for some anxious moments.

ex TRUE GRIT

[GregH]

The inspection is done and unless there is something miraculous out there these days this block is toast I would say.

[Dave Neptune]

Greg, ouch! Looks like a "freeze damage" crack. I know of no fix for that spot.

Dave Neptune

[Surcouf]

what I was fearing. Call Ken and send him pictures, but this one unlikely to be repairable. Was a an early season last freeze damage? or last winter winterization issue?

[Al Schober]

Bummer! Looks like you're in the market for a replacement engine. Perhaps a short block from Moyer? Probably a 'poster picture' for why to go with glycol cooling.

[GregH]

So I'll be starting a new thread about the rebuild (of course).

I'll taking the one out of the boat and I already have one in the garage in pieces! so between them and some new items from Moyer it'll be a learning curve!

... how does one winterize a garage for working in?

[Al Schober]

Ah, yes - winterizing a garage. Have experience with that..
Let me first assume the heat is only for a few hours a day.
First, plug up the drafts. Our 2 car has a loft above, and we had to block off flow to the stairway. It was either that or block off the vents in the loft, and then try to heat the loft too.
For heat, we've been using propane infra-red heaters. Point them right and they'll keep you warm. A fan is good if you want to heat the whole area. We didn't even consider electric - $$. Natural gas is good if you have it - we don't. Alternative is a salamander type heater.
For any of these, watch out for buildup of combustion products. Water vapor will cause rust on metal parts in the area, CO2 is OK in the short term, CO is deadly. Watch your fuel and by-products from the burner.
If you intend to heat the space 24/7, you need a stove or furnace with a flue to the outside. There are propane or natural gas units that are quite effective and easy to install.
Whether or not you need insulation depends on your fuel costs.