Wasted-away oil-change plug in V-drive

[ernst]

For the 19 years that I own the boat, I have "changed" the oil in the V-drive through what turns out to be the magnetic plug which is actually close to the TOP (!) of the oil level. I was always amazed that I just got a few table spoons of oil out, and in, but thought that this was just the nature of the V-drive (it is the first I ever owned).

I only now learned that it takes a whole pint, and that there is a square oil-change plug at the BOTTOM of the oil sump. DUH!

I have now identified the plug but it turns out that it is nearly entirely wasted away! All that is left is a little spike, less than 1/8" thick, of unknown consistency. I have not dared to touch it, it may be solid or all rust, or a combination of both. Other than this spike, I can guess where the bolt and its threads are but it is essentially flush with the housing.

What to do? Should I try to grip this spike with vise-grips (or something else?) and see if I can turn it? I believe things like 'drilling it out' are unrealistic, given where it is, at the back of the bottom of the V-drive.

Or should I try to suck the oil out with a pump? I have an oil-change pump that I use for the motor oil but I don't know what is in the V-drive housing. Will the little hose that came with the pump be able to get down to the bottom of the oil sump? The only access point that seems reasonable is the magnetic plug, which is in great shape. But this would probably require a very tight, 90 degree turn to get down into the oil sump.

Suggestions?

Thank you!

[joe_db]

I would try the pump.

[Administrator]

Does this manual posted by Ed help?

Bill

[ernst]

Does this manual posted by Ed help?

Bill

Thank you. I already have it. This helped me to identify the exact location where the oil change stud was SUPPOSED to be

[ernst]

I would try the pump.

yeah, not much to lose trying, I guess.

[edwardc]

If you still have the serial number plate attached & readable, a more long-term (but expensive) fix might be to send it to Walter for a rebuild.

[ernst]

If you still have the serial number plate attached & readable, a more long-term (but expensive) fix might be to send it to Walter for a rebuild.

Yes, the serial plate is there and perfectly readable.

But I would hope that an oil change does not require a rebuild by the manufacturer

[edwardc]

I was more concerned with the almost-rotted-away drain plug. When it finally fails, the v-drive will lose all its oil and quickly burn up.

[ernst]

I was more concerned with the almost-rotted-away drain plug. When it finally fails, the v-drive will lose all its oil and quickly burn up.

Ahh, gotcha!

Yes, that is a good point. I need to poke at it and see if the what is left is solid. If it is anything like the magnetic plug (that I have erroneously used to do my 'oil changes') AND if the remainder is solid, I would not be too worried about it, there should be a lot of material left.

But surely something to keep an eye on!

[joe_db]

Yes, the serial plate is there and perfectly readable.

But I would hope that an oil change does not require a rebuild by the manufacturer

That was BMW's plan for their transmissions I asked the dealer if they could change the fluid and they said no, it is good for the lifetime of the transmission. When the tranny goes, you get a new one with new fluid. I think I made the service adviser mad when I said well the engine must have lifetime oil too. After all, you can just drive the car until the engine won't run and then get a new engine with fresh oil in it

[edwardc]

Ahh, gotcha!

Yes, that is a good point. I need to poke at it and see if the what is left is solid. If it is anything like the magnetic plug (that I have erroneously used to do my 'oil changes') AND if the remainder is solid, I would not be too worried about it, there should be a lot of material left.

But surely something to keep an eye on!

I would poke away now. Better it leaks under controlled conditions than in a crowded seaway with 5' chop, in the middle of a 2-week trip (this is when all failures occur. )

The good news is that the V-drive does not need frequent oil changes. The lower operating temperature (compared to engine oil), combined with the lack of combustion byproduct blow-by, means that the oil stays nice and clean for a very long time.

[ernst]

I would poke away now. Better it leaks under controlled conditions than in a crowded seaway with 5' chop, in the middle of a 2-week trip (this is when all failures occur. )

The good news is that the V-drive does not need frequent oil changes. The lower operating temperature (compared to engine oil), combined with the lack of combustion byproduct blow-by, means that the oil stays nice and clean for a very long time.

Yes, that is my plan. Operation 'Poke' is on the ToDo list for the next visit to the boat. Possibly this weekend but work may get in the way (and the weather looks pretty crummy too).

And yes, whenever I extracted my table spoon of oil, it looked very fresh.

I will bring my oil change pump at the same time and see if I can suck enough oil out of the magnetic plug.

[ernst]

So, I would call that a success.

First, I poked at the remnants of the oil change block with a screw driver. It is rock solid. Not even rusty. Why it completely wasted away, I have no idea.

Second, I did the oil change. The portable pump comes with one pretty thin hose, maybe 1/8" ID. I shoved that into the 'magnetic' plug (where I used to extract the oil) and got about 1.5 or 2 inches down. Surely not to the bottom of the oil sump but I get about 1/3 pint or a bit more of the oil out. So, I did this 3 or 4 times, with the shaft turning a bit in-between. In the end I got a good pint of oil out. Not perfect but MUCH better than I did the last 20 years!!

I think this is good enough for now. I will do that from now on on my regular schedule. Next oil change will be end of the season which is only 3 or 4 months from now!

[dplidr@gmail.com]

removing the V-Drive fluid without removing drain plug

On the lower edges on each side of my v-Drive is the water intake (carb side) and output to the waterpump (Accessory drive side). That water cooling is a brass pipe inside the lower part of the fluid reservoir. The assembly is an outer bronze threaded hex ring with an internal O-ring to seal to the inner pipe. If you remove the inner water adapter fitting connected to the cooling intake hose (catch/drain the cooling water to avoid more mess), you can then remove that outer hex adapter (be prepared to catch that oil/lube a well). When you do, the rest of the v-drive fluid will flow out (and you can examine the inner brass tube and the o-ring in the inner wall of the adapter).

Hope this is helpful.
-Ishmael22DPL
1976 C&C

[ernst]

Thank you!