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  #126   IP: 38.27.109.137
Old 07-10-2020, 06:26 AM
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Of course. I wasn't criticizing your judgment, and I apologize if you took it that way. People go up the mast all the time. If given a choice, I don't.

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  #127   IP: 174.255.137.223
Old 07-29-2020, 03:21 PM
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Overheating Assistance Please

Ok guys, RWC late model with overheating which I plan on tackling this weekend. A bit of background, I recently did a muriatic flush of the cooling system. Today, to prepare for this weekend's task of resolving the overheating (and hopefully to get a better idea where there might be a block in the cooling system) I got a laser heat gun and at about the 15 min mark pointed it at different points of the engine and these are the readings that I got.

Thermostat gauge went from 140 to 160;

Spark plugs were in the range of 180-185 (#4 being the hottest);

A bunch of points all over the head were around 160-174

Manifold was mostly cool (like 150 or less) so was the area around the thermostat housing and the water jacket plate was even cooler.

The connection from the manifold to the exhaust was very high (like 340)!

Does this point to the area of the blockage in the cooling system being at the manifold exhaust connection? Is that where I should start looking for the blockage? I read somewhere that that particular connection is a common problem area. All input appreciated. Thx in advance

Last edited by Ando; 07-29-2020 at 06:00 PM.
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  #128   IP: 47.142.137.42
Old 07-29-2020, 07:21 PM
JOHN COOKSON JOHN COOKSON is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ando View Post
Does this point to the area of the blockage in the cooling system being at the manifold exhaust connection? Is that where I should start looking for the blockage? I read somewhere that that particular connection is a common problem area. All input appreciated. Thx in advance
If there is a 90 degree bend in the barbs going into or out of the manifold there is high probability that is where the blockage is, especially at the outlet 90 degree barb. I got so sick and tired of blockages at the outlet 90 degree barb I went to straight barbs. Solved the problem - no more blockages.
As you probably know you can flush the KRAP out of the manifold with city water pressure. I recommend it.
Do you have the Thatch Modification? The Thatch Modification introduces cooling water in to the manifold at the low end which eliminates air pockets and makes for better manifold cooling.
You would get more responses if you would start a new thread for each new "adventure".

ex TRUE GRIT
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  #129   IP: 45.49.35.172
Old 07-29-2020, 08:19 PM
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Yes, ndutton told me about the thatch mod and I do have it set up like that. I'll check to see about that 90 degree barb once I get back there. Thx so much, Prof. Emeritus
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  #130   IP: 24.152.132.140
Old 07-29-2020, 08:29 PM
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While those numbers seem a little high for a RWC engine, I'm not seeing a big problem. What suggests it's OVERheating? What am I missing?
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  #131   IP: 45.49.35.172
Old 07-29-2020, 11:30 PM
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Piece of mind when I'm out there. It's bothering me. When I rev it, it goes up to 180 and smoke has now started coming out the back. It's clearly smoke, just like the old engine did before I killed due to lack of oil 180 is just too close to 220 to me, especially when I'm out there.

Side note: I checked the oil level today and it was low so I'll be doing an oil change this weekend as well.

Also, I remember the adventure I've been on before and although I appreciate it and the people I've met along the way and the knowledge I've gained, I dont want to re-live it, I guess I'm just extra sensitive. Ignorance is bliss. I spent a lot time and mental energy in getting a replacement engine and refurbishing it with your help it and did so in time for this sailing season and I want it to tick like a clock and work as it should. That's it. I mean, shouldn't be getting no hotter than say, what, like 160 when I push the throttle? Right?
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  #132   IP: 47.142.137.42
Old 07-30-2020, 12:29 AM
JOHN COOKSON JOHN COOKSON is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ando View Post
When I rev it, it goes up to 180 and smoke has now started coming out the back. It's clearly smoke, just like the old engine did before I killed due to lack of oil

Side note: I checked the oil level today and it was low so I'll be doing an oil change this weekend as well.
Smoke coming out the exhaust when the engine is revved up after idle; oil is disappearing: Aren't these the classic signs of "burning oil"? Are the spark plugs fouling?
Sounds to me like you need a dry and wet compression test.

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  #133   IP: 108.185.228.107
Old 07-30-2020, 05:31 AM
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I’ll check the spark plugs this weekend, but a “wet and dry compression test” is novel to me. How do I do that? What do you mean wet and dry?
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  #134   IP: 24.152.132.140
Old 07-30-2020, 09:03 AM
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A few questions/suggestions re: elevated heat:
  1. If installed, please remove the flow sensor until after troubleshooting is complete.
  2. How old is the water pump?
  3. Have you acid flushed this engine?
  4. Is a bypass valve installed? If yes, try removing the thermostat and closing the bypass valve.
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  #135   IP: 155.186.124.219
Old 07-30-2020, 09:43 AM
Dave Neptune Dave Neptune is offline
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Ando. first do the "dry test". Be sure the batteries are fully charged, all spark plugs removed, choke open and the throttle set to full. Now do a compression test on each cylinder. I do them twice for checking MY consistancy. That is the dry test.

Wet test is the SECOND test. Now "spray" some WD-40 or spray oil of some sort into the cylinders. Now test again while the cylinder is wet with oil. The oil will fill some of the gaps in the rings if they are worn and you should see "more compression" if the rings are bad. If the compression numbers stay the same and are low you may have valve issues.

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  #136   IP: 165.225.38.121
Old 07-30-2020, 11:13 AM
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and if applicable, do not forget to close your cooling water seacock when doing compression test... or it could become a true wet test...
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  #137   IP: 108.185.228.107
Old 07-30-2020, 11:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ndutton View Post
A few questions/suggestions re: elevated heat:
  1. If installed, please remove the flow sensor until after troubleshooting is complete.
  2. How old is the water pump?
  3. Have you acid flushed this engine?
  4. Is a bypass valve installed? If yes, try removing the thermostat and closing the bypass valve.
Yes, flow sensor is installed
Water pump is brand new
Yes, muriatic acid wash was done recently
Yes as to the bypass valve. Ok I’ll try removing the thermostat and closing the valve and report back.

But as to wet and dry compression testing as advised by Dave Neptune, I recall we did a dry compression test at the start of the season and at that time compression was as follows:
1. 115
2. 95 sparking stopped
3. 100
4. 100
And I will be doing a wet and dry compression test after going over the steps above
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  #138   IP: 174.255.137.223
Old 08-01-2020, 03:39 PM
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Update

Flow sensor removed and replaced with straight water line. Found a couple small barnacles inside the flow sensor.

Removed and checked both manifold input and output barbs (the input is a 90 degree barb but it was clean).

Removed manifold and high pressure washed it.

Oil changed

Dry compression test results (from 1-4): 105, 100, 100, 100.

Wet compression test results to follow (I will be using MMO).

I have not removed the thermostat yet. Planning on running it after the wet compression test and seeing what the temp is at to see if the flow sensor removal did the trick.
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  #139   IP: 174.255.137.223
Old 08-01-2020, 03:52 PM
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See comments directly above.

Wet compression test results (I put MMO in each cylinder first, which wasn’t the best idea...should have put it in each individual cylinder prior to testing because the other three cylinders shot out MMO in the first test):

Wet test 1: 200, 120, 120, 115

Just to be sure
Wet test 2: 165, 118, 120, 115
*test 2 was done without placing any more MMO in each cylinder (ie I put MMO in each then tested each cylinder twice and so the MMO was probably all shot out during the first test of the first cylinder).

Last edited by Ando; 08-01-2020 at 03:55 PM.
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  #140   IP: 174.255.137.223
Old 08-01-2020, 03:59 PM
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See comments above

I’m not sure what “fouled” spark plugs look like, but here are mine:

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Last edited by Ando; 08-01-2020 at 04:33 PM.
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  #141   IP: 174.255.137.223
Old 08-01-2020, 04:32 PM
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See comments above.

Water flow is way way way better now. Now my temp gauge isn’t working, but I still have my temp gun and at ~15min of running time it reads between 160-190 at different point along the head, the manifold reads between 100-120 and the connection to the exhaust reads around 400.

Edit: the temp gauge IS working, but only when the engine is off does it give me a reading lol. When it’s on, the pointer falls to below 100. So weird, right?

Last edited by Ando; 08-01-2020 at 04:46 PM.
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  #142   IP: 24.152.132.140
Old 08-01-2020, 04:52 PM
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Please save the flow sensor as-is for me (tomorrow afternoon?).
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  #143   IP: 174.255.137.223
Old 08-01-2020, 04:57 PM
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Quote:
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Please save the flow sensor as-is for me (tomorrow afternoon?).
Yes, sir. I’ll be here.
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