Alternator diagrams

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  • ndutton
    Afourian MVP
    • May 2009
    • 9601

    #16
    This thread from earlier this year addresses alternator temperature directly:

    Neil
    1977 Catalina 30
    San Pedro, California
    prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22
    Had my hands in a few others

    Comment

    • jpian0923
      Afourian MVP
      • Sep 2010
      • 976

      #17
      Nice thread.

      I run the inverter off one battery. When it's time to charge, should I switch to charge both batteries? Will the alternator see this as a higher average voltage and work less hard?
      "Jim"
      S/V "Ahoi"
      1967 Islander 29
      Harbor Island, San Diego
      2/7/67 A4 Engine Block date

      Comment

      • ndutton
        Afourian MVP
        • May 2009
        • 9601

        #18
        Yep. (10 character minimum)
        Neil
        1977 Catalina 30
        San Pedro, California
        prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22
        Had my hands in a few others

        Comment

        • jpian0923
          Afourian MVP
          • Sep 2010
          • 976

          #19
          Tried it tonight. Seemed to work. The only data I have is the change in RPM when switching from one battery to both batteries during charging. Thanks Neil.

          Clarification: When charging the single depleted battery, rpms were low (alt working hard). When switched to single fully charged battery rpm went up (alt not working hard). When switched to both, seemed like rpms were somewhere in the middle of the two. Strange though...tach (mechanical) went out at some point. Have to check the linkage on that. Was judging by ear at this point.
          Last edited by jpian0923; 12-19-2011, 01:39 AM.
          "Jim"
          S/V "Ahoi"
          1967 Islander 29
          Harbor Island, San Diego
          2/7/67 A4 Engine Block date

          Comment

          • sastanley
            Afourian MVP
            • Sep 2008
            • 6986

            #20
            Make sure your battery switch is a make before break style..you do not want the alternator to see 'no' load at any time..it can ruin it. Most switches are built this way..if the lights stay on (i.e, don't flicker), when you switch batteries, you're probably OK.

            I also think it is a good idea to only switch the batteries around when the engine is at idle. I am not sure how the alt. likes those sudden changes in load when it is spinning at a few thousand RPM...this is just a personal opinion though.
            -Shawn
            "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109
            "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!)
            sigpic

            Comment

            • ndutton
              Afourian MVP
              • May 2009
              • 9601

              #21
              Yeah Jim,
              The RPM behavior you report is exactly right. The alternator load on the engine is what causes it. In a way you can use your ears as a seat of the pants indicator of battery state of charge.
              Neil
              1977 Catalina 30
              San Pedro, California
              prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22
              Had my hands in a few others

              Comment

              • jpian0923
                Afourian MVP
                • Sep 2010
                • 976

                #22
                I'm assuming make before break battery switch. When I was "green" I messed with the switch, turning it to "off" (momentarily) and engine kept running. Had no ill effects from it, that I can tell.
                Last edited by jpian0923; 12-20-2011, 01:35 AM.
                "Jim"
                S/V "Ahoi"
                1967 Islander 29
                Harbor Island, San Diego
                2/7/67 A4 Engine Block date

                Comment

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