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  #26   IP: 24.152.132.140
Old 05-28-2018, 10:21 AM
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Tom, see the last sentence in post #22
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  #27   IP: 138.207.172.243
Old 05-28-2018, 10:23 AM
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Yeah, me too Neil.

Are you thinking what I'm thinking?
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  #28   IP: 24.152.132.140
Old 05-28-2018, 10:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomG View Post
Are you thinking what I'm thinking?
No. It seems everybody has their own idea of marine exhaust design and what Alco has is just another permutation. I've posted S&S standpipe drawings in the past that show design revisions, the early model had a higher discharge (can't attach anything right now but the forum administration is working on it). In Alco's case, a high discharge may be necessary to achieve the down hill run to the transom, I just don't know. If he follows the drawings carefully he'll be good.

I noticed Tim's standpipe is the more conventional design.
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  #29   IP: 72.218.163.249
Old 05-28-2018, 02:14 PM
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I'm going to see how much of a drop from the top and bottom of the current standpipe there is. It may be only a top discharge will work with this boat which would point to a custom built stand pipe or switching to a water lift.
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Old 05-31-2018, 09:45 PM
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Maybe a little late here, but the last page of the Ericson manual should be a drawing of the standpipe. You could take that to a machine shop and ask for an estimate to fabricate one out of iron pipe.

Water went in the bottom and filled the outer jacket, then mixed with the cooled exhaust at the exit pipe.

Let's see...


Everything above the exit pipe was wrapped in insulation, and that part also gradually rusts away.

Last edited by toddster; 05-31-2018 at 09:49 PM.
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Old 06-01-2018, 09:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alcodiesel View Post
Thank you for the suggestions.
You know in a modern world where we don't even know our neighbor it is touching and refreshing to have someone concerned about me getting poisoned with CO gas. Point well taken. Thank you Dave. Wutta forum and bunch of fellow sailors we have here.
I have been CO poisoned before, so I can tell you that avoiding it is MUCH better!
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Old 06-01-2018, 02:47 PM
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Yeah Todd, I have the same drawing only it says E27 on top. The original looks stainless yet you say make it out of black iron.

Joe, there was Nick at the corner garage of my youth who was all messed up mentally. Neighborhood lore had it that he had breathed too much exhaust from cars running in his closed garage in the winter.

PS Todd, I take that back. There is one difference: the exhaust in pipe looks to be 5.5" longer on the E29
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Last edited by alcodiesel; 06-01-2018 at 02:53 PM.
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  #33   IP: 72.218.163.249
Old 06-03-2018, 05:10 PM
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Hello all,
I want to go with a standpipe system (riser in Ericsoneese) to replace/repair what I have now. The exhaust exit of the standpipe must be near or at the top to have a downward slope to the transom thru hull. Standpipes that exit at the bottom (Moyer, Tim's) won't work. (thank you again Tim)

I temporally patched the leaky iron pipe (this thing has virtually no back pressure) so at least I can still get out for sails while getting ready to tackle this project.

A young marina mate, Victor, does marine welding for a living. (good friend to have) He took a look and told me to give him the whole thing- iron pipe and standpipe and he'll test and repair the standpipe, if it needs it, and replace the iron pipe at his shop. He even offered to do the work on the boat. What takes me 10 minutes to hang down the lazerette to reach the stuff took him seconds. (Whew)

Was I ever that nimble?

Anyway that's where it stands now.

PS I have a saws all now, hehehe

PPS what ever happened to the original poster of this thread?
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Old 06-17-2018, 03:20 PM
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Update

Hi all, Iím still here. Iíve been really busy so I still havenít even been back to the boat to remove the exhaust pipe. Hopefully Iíll get out next weekend and be able to some work. Iíll post an update when I can.
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  #35   IP: 74.214.58.121
Old 06-26-2018, 04:49 PM
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Exhaust leak located

Quote:
Originally Posted by joe_db View Post
I would also unwrap it and check the pipe. I have gone to work on mine and it collapsed from hand pressure. Rust Never Sleeps
Hint - drop some MMO in the carb. The engine will smoke - a lot! You can see where it leaks that way
Well, taking the best wrap off was the right call. I took it off and pipe just fell in half

Quote:
Originally Posted by sastanley View Post
SoMD, Down here where we live it is always an adventure. I would suggest Dyson's or Ace Hardware. Most exhausts between the engine and muffler is 1-1/4" black iron pipe. It looks like you have a Moyer standard flange, which bolts to the manifold and has 1-1/4" NPT threads. As others suggested, remove the wrap and see. Moyer sells the wrap too, but you can also get it local at NAPA up next to the bowling alley.
Any advice on how to get the new pipe made? Just take it in and have them help?
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  #36   IP: 172.95.97.58
Old 06-26-2018, 07:20 PM
Dave Neptune Dave Neptune is offline
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All of the fittings are just off the shelf plumbing. Be sure to use "black pipe" unless you just can't find it then use the galvanized.

Take a bit of time to design the fab. When I did mine the first time I changed a few lil directions and routed them in other places. This really opened up the area for other work and inspecting. Well worth the effort.

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  #37   IP: 71.178.82.180
Old 06-26-2018, 10:55 PM
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SoMD Terp, If you bring broken parts into Dyson's with a general idea of how they went together, they will do their best to help..they are one of the last 'old school' hardware stores in the area, but they do not know boats. They are always surprised when I come in and buy RV butyl tape for my boat, but they also have reasonable prices on West System Epoxy, so they sorta understand boats..just not old sail boats.

As Dave said, it is mostly 1-1/4" black iron pipe...the issue is that not every local store has every 45į or 90į elbow, a close nipple, 6" long pipe, etc., that you might need for your particular routing to mate up with the muffler.

You will need to do a bit of fabrication and design on your own...Just keep careful tabs on the parts you buy and don't tear them up so you can return this piece and that piece that is 1/2" too long or short as you rebuild your system, and you might need to trek to a couple other hardware stores to find the piece you need. (Ace or True Value).

I am in your immediate area (I work in Lexington Park)..send me a PM and we can talk if you need help. I have a day job and I am always busy, but I will happily make a run to meet you at the the hardware store at lunch, or at the boat after work, etc.
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Last edited by sastanley; 06-26-2018 at 11:26 PM.
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  #38   IP: 72.218.163.249
Old 07-29-2018, 02:29 PM
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I patched the holy pipe below the stand pipe on the E27 to get through a couple weeks when family was visiting and could take them out sailing which I did.

There must be nearly zero back pressure on this old Ericson system because cut up beer cans and muffler wrap patch stuff kept it from leaking gasses into the boat. That was all there was: Today I happily removed the flange bolts- they are stainless and came out without a fight. The pipes fell apart.

A young fella, Victor, who does marine welding for a living helped me remove all parts of the system and he took it home to rebuild it out of iron pipe and pressure test the stand pipe. If he can find scraps he may substitute 316 SS for the iron. As long as it doesn't get too pricey- why not?

I am glad the wind/weather is crappy here.
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Old 08-03-2018, 06:07 PM
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Victor, the young fella helping me with the exhaust re-welded a small leak at the bottom of the riser. We could not get the flange off the pipe so I ordered a new one from our host. Should get it Monday. (nice being just down the coast from Moyer) Maybe then I can put it back together. It's been a week and a half since I sailed and miss it. At least the weather hasn't been all that great for sailing. But still there has been nice parts of days for short, few-hour sails.

I was going to do the Thatch modification but could not find the right plumbing parts here in Norfolk. I could not get the nipple off the rear of the manifold.

Did some rewiring on the engine and stripped the varnish off some topside wood work then tung oiled; while not sailing. I will never varnish again.
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Old 08-07-2018, 06:02 PM
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Did it! Got the new pipe and leak repaired riser installed last night. Shake down cruise was a clean sweep today. Geeze it's been 2 weeks since I've been out. Wasn't as sharp, but boy did it feel good. I kept sighing.
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Old 08-13-2018, 01:59 PM
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we sailed (mostly motored) my newtome Morgan down from Chestertown to the potomac over the weekend. Other than a few minor mechanical issues, the coil died and i fouled the prop with a line hangine overboard, that little motor ran like a champ. The only issue was an exhaust leak that got progressively worse over the three days. We had decent weather dispite only having good wind for part of one day so we were able to stay on deck and make the journey safely.
Anyway, i was looking for answers and now it sounds like i should pull the insulation off the pipes and see what i have.
Thanks and i will update with my progress
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Old 08-24-2018, 11:16 AM
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Exhaust update

So I finally had time to get the proper hardware and install it. Not the prettiest job, but got it all together and the engine ran with no issues. However, I am still getting a leak. It seems to be less than it was before and smelled a little more like something was burning. I think Iíll do what someone mentioned earlier and drop some MMO in the carb and see if that helps
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Old 08-24-2018, 11:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoMD Terp View Post
... It seems to be less than it was before and smelled a little more like something was burning.
ASSUMING that you used black pipe, did you use a heat WRAP around the pipe?
That heat wrap will take a few hours to "burn in" and will have a burning smell to it.
Keep the cabin well ventilated until it sets.

NOTE: IF you didn't wrap the pipe, that could possibly account for a small leak.
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Old 08-24-2018, 11:37 AM
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Another situation where a handheld IR thermometer might be helpful?

Bill
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Old 08-24-2018, 09:07 PM
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The other half of the system

SoMd Terp, Way back in the first post of this thread you mentioned that you have a Catalina 30. About three years ago I replaced the 20 odd feet of the soft section of my C-30s exhaust and was amazed at it's horribly "leaky" condition. It's run goes from the water-lift, behind the stove, up to the gunnel area, through a check valve and around to the stern. There are a couple of "pinch" areas that makes pulling in the new hose a challenge. I wound up removing the stove temporarily and cutting an 8" round access port to make things easier. If yours has not been replaced, I would suspect that at least part of your exhaust leak is from that hose. Hope this helps.
Tom
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  #46   IP: 138.162.0.42
Old 08-27-2018, 09:24 AM
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Continue to look

Quote:
Originally Posted by roadnsky View Post
ASSUMING that you used black pipe, did you use a heat WRAP around the pipe?
That heat wrap will take a few hours to "burn in" and will have a burning smell to it.
Keep the cabin well ventilated until it sets.

NOTE: IF you didn't wrap the pipe, that could possibly account for a small leak.
I ended up using galvanized pipe (sastanley, Dyson's didn't have black iron in the correct size) for it and wrapped it with "titanium lava fiber" from Amazon. That may account for the change in smell, but there is still a leak somewhere for me to find.

Quote:
Originally Posted by thatch View Post
SoMd Terp, Way back in the first post of this thread you mentioned that you have a Catalina 30. About three years ago I replaced the 20 odd feet of the soft section of my C-30s exhaust and was amazed at it's horribly "leaky" condition. It's run goes from the water-lift, behind the stove, up to the gunnel area, through a check valve and around to the stern. There are a couple of "pinch" areas that makes pulling in the new hose a challenge. I wound up removing the stove temporarily and cutting an 8" round access port to make things easier. If yours has not been replaced, I would suspect that at least part of your exhaust leak is from that hose. Hope this helps.
Tom
That sounds very painful. The leak still seems to be coming from the engine compartment, so I'm hoping this isn't the case for me. The exhaust out the stern is quite smokey, so maybe I am just getting more smoke than in the past, which has exposed the leak(s). I'll see what dumping the MMO in the carb gets me.
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Old 08-27-2018, 09:44 AM
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Galvanized pipe gives off poisonous fumes from the zinc when heated. You can actually get sick with a flue like illness from this called "metal fever" for obvious reasons
You need to run the boat with all hatches open and keep yourself out of the fumes until it burns off. I would be tempted to do this job over with black iron.
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Old 08-29-2018, 10:34 PM
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SoMD Terp. As always, give me a shout via PM. I am busy the next month or so, but it is too hot to work on boats right now anyway. I have done the work thatch mentioned of replacing all the soft hose..really not too bad but, you need two people. It was a one afternoon job.

P.S.> I have had to resort to galvanized pipe in these parts too...just heed the off gassing warnings from other forumites.

Holler when you want some help.
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Last edited by sastanley; 08-29-2018 at 10:36 PM.
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