Anti-Sieze Compound?

[Mark Millbauer]

What's the best anti-seize compound to use on the various A4 fasteners in a saltwater boat? I am a huge fan of it on all auto engine stuff but I want to make sure I don't use something that would accelerate galvanic corrosion.

On another note, I might have to replace my prop shaft and may go stainless, is that a problem with a bronze prop?

Mark
79 Catalina 27

[67c&ccorv]

I think there are 3 grades of anti-seize.

Go with the one used in nuclear boilers etc. I think they use nickel as the lubricant...in the nuclear industry standards are much more stringent and corrosion, galvanic or otherwise is a big issue.

[rigspelt]

What's the best anti-seize compound to use on the various A4 fasteners in a saltwater boat? I am a huge fan of it on all auto engine stuff but I want to make sure I don't use something that would accelerate galvanic corrosion.

I've wondered about this too. My compromise (no expert) is to use regular antiseize when antiseize is called for (it can lead to bolt over-tightening, I'm told) when direct seawater exposure is not an issue and the bolt and hole metals are similar. I gather some like the teflon thread sealant compounds.

On another note, I might have to replace my prop shaft and may go stainless, is that a problem with a bronze prop?

I definitely would not use antiseize here that contains additional metals, and furthermore I've been told not to use any compounds between stainless shaft and bronze prop, or in the keyway, but to make sure I have adequate zinc on the shaft.

If either of these understandings are wrong, I hope to be corrected.

[keelcooler]

Mark,
Bronze prop and SS shaft mix is fine but you will need a shaft zinc. Make sure SS is proper grade 316 L ,otherwise it will have a short life and suffer from crevice corrosion.

[Mark Millbauer]

Thanks for all the info so far. Regarding the stainless shaft, sometime ago I was given a used stainless shaft of the same diameter (1") but longer. I just kept it around in case I needed some good 1" round stock for something someday. Yesterday I got my old bronze shaft out and noticed some wear in the stuffing box and cutlass bearing area and I remembered I had the stainless shaft laying around. I would just have to shorten it and have a new key way cut. I don't really know which is best, bronze or stainless. Also, I have no way of knowing what grade of stainless it is but I checked and it is magnetic.

Aluminum, nickel, copper, etc., I think I'll look for a anti-sieze that is marine rated with no metal in it. The last thing I need on a 30 year old engine is more corrosion.

Another question: Whats the best stuffing box packing material? The boat came with a bunch of black rope flax of some sort, but I understand there are newer choices. Though seemingly expensive, Catalina Direct offers a "no-drip" material.

Mark

[sastanley]

gore tex

Mark, For the packing material, I'd just use gore-tex. It is one of the 'newer' materials you speak of and is a replacement for the old flax stuff.

Unless you are having a problem with the existing stuffing box, I can't see the need for the extra expense of a dripless type, unless you want to eliminate that maintenance item.

[wmmulvey]

Re: Packing gland

Mark,

Here is an excellent site for packing gland info.

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/stuffing_box&page=1

Copy and paste to Microsoft Qord for a hard copy.

Bill

[wmmulvey]

Re: Packing gland

I would stay away from the no drip packing.

You need some water dripping to keep the shaft lubed.

Follow the directions from the web site I sent to you and you will have no problems.

If you can remove the whole box then soak it in vinagar overnite to clean it up.

(Mispell Microsoft word)

Bill