#1
IP: 73.133.67.239
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Motor died. Two mysteries. Is it the snap ring on the impeller?
Haven't been here for years which shows how well my A-4 works! But on Saturday this streak ended. Fortunately nothing too dramatic but I need to know what is going on.
Here is some history: Many years ago, I installed the Indigo freshwater cooling system (the original one, the one that re-purposes the original water pump for the coolant and adds a new mechanical one for raw water). A week ago, I checked both impellers. Both looked fine but I lost all the coolant and I replaced it. So, the main story: I sailed Saturday (great sailing on the Chessie!) and was approaching my selected anchoring spot. I was just getting out the leather gloves for the anchor chain when the motor stopped! No hesitation, just stopped. I dropped anchor immediately (it was a reasonable spot to stay for the night) and I investigated. So here are the symptoms: First, a non-symptom: the impeller looked perfectly fine. Second, I noticed that the coolant hoses leading to and from the coolant pump were reasonably cool, probably cooler than normally (I don't have a good basis for comparison because it always worked so well that I never really paid attention). OTOH the one that comes out of the block to the exhaust manifold was much hotter. The other symptom is that the coolant level was way low! I ended up adding 3 quarts of water, even though I had refilled it a week ago (using the procedure in the Indigo instructions: loosening the hose at the coolant pump, run it until the coolant gets warm, then loosening the hose at the TCV and getting to 180degrees). All as prescribed. When I was done with it, it should have been filled to the brim. Of course, I could have a leak somewhere. But if that is the case, where did the coolant go? It is not in the bilge! The thought that the head gasket might have blown and the coolant ended up in the oil crossed my mind but when I pulled the dipstick, the oil looked fine. No emulsion or anything. So, there are two mysteries: One is the disappearance of the coolant. The second is why the motor stopped. Does it do that if it overheats? It was not glowing hot, just a bit warmer than I would have expected after running it for ~1/2 hour. Any ideas? To come to the last part of my subject line: When I checked on the impellers last week, I remembered that I had read somewhere on the internet that the snap ring (circlip) on the impeller is there only for shipping purpose. Since it is a bit of a pain to take it off and on again (if you don't have the appropriate tool handy). I took it off and THREW IT AWAY. Was that a big mistake? Is the snap ring functional after all? Did the coolant pump just not pump and therefore there was no circulation in the block? Anyway, I waited overnight and in the morning the motor started immediately! I did not dare to run it for a long time, only to get off the anchor, and then I sailed the boat right to the marina where I ran the motor again for 5 minutes to get into the slip. Again flawlessly. Any ideas? |
#2
IP: 24.152.132.140
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I think you're headed down the right path for the most part. Coolant loss is the most likely cause of your elevated temperature and there are very few places the coolant can go:
For the shut down I would approach it as separate from the elevated temperature. Testing is best performed at the time of shutdown and the first determination is spark or fuel. Once that is known the real troubleshooting can begin.
__________________
Neil 1977 Catalina 30 San Pedro, California prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22 Had my hands in a few others Last edited by ndutton; 10-28-2019 at 03:31 PM. |
#3
IP: 73.133.67.239
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Quote:
On the one hand, I can't help thinking that there is a connection between me opening the cooling system, refilling it etc and the motor overheating a week later (with no use in-between). OTOH, maybe there is such a thing as a pure coincidence and your option #3 surely would explain the loss of coolant. So I agree, a pressure test of the manifold may be in order. I found your helpful thread http://www.moyermarineforum.com/foru...ad.php?t=10146 and will procure the doohickey you are recommending. I will also see if I can reproduce any of the symptoms while safely moored in the slip. Will dig out my IR thermometer and find out if the temperatures of the coolant going into the block and coming out of the block are too far apart. I don't really know what to expect there, clearly it must heat up but I never really paid attention to it. If anyone has an idea what is a reasonable temperature difference, I am all ears. And thank you for alleviating my concerns about the snap ring. On the one hand, it would have been an easy solution. On the other hand, I would have felt incredibly stupid having thrown it away As for why it stopped, again it could have been a pure coincidence that that happened when the motor ran our of coolant. But at some point there is too much of a coincidence.... Anyway, thanks for the information. I will report on the outcome of my tests but I can only get to the boat on weekends so it will not be a superfast process. Last edited by ernst; 06-11-2019 at 05:14 PM. Reason: typos |
#4
IP: 71.38.87.228
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Quote:
Did you try to restart the engine once you were anchored? If so, did it start or what? Or, did you wait until the next morning?
__________________
-Jerry 'Lone Ranger' 1978 RANGER 30 |
#5
IP: 73.133.67.239
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Next morning, it started immediately, without the slightest hesitation (as it has done for years). |
#6
IP: 24.53.89.131
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Is it possible that you did not get it filled to the brim? I have read many posts abut the challenges of getting all the air out of these FWC systems.
Did you measure how much coolant you added? Others with experience with these systems may have some idea of the system volume. Peter |
#7
IP: 71.38.87.228
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Quote:
Quote:
(Maybe you see where I'm going?)
__________________
-Jerry 'Lone Ranger' 1978 RANGER 30 |
#8
IP: 128.220.159.8
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I know how much I added, about 3 quarts. But I don't really know how much I lost in the bilge when checking the impeller. You make an excellent point. |
#9
IP: 128.220.159.8
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Points.
(actually I am not sure where you are going. What does my answer tell you?) |
#10
IP: 97.93.70.7
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I suspect both a breech in the manifold AND an intermittent coil, they fail when they get hot and "cook" if the key is left on.
Dave Neptune |
#11
IP: 71.38.87.228
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Quote:
__________________
-Jerry 'Lone Ranger' 1978 RANGER 30 |
#12
IP: 73.133.67.239
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I don't understand what is cause and effect. The motor was running and it then stopped. Why would the coil get cooked then? I turned it off immediately, within maybe 10 seconds. I have a pretty annoying low oil pressure alarm so the ignition is never on for more than a few seconds without the motor turning.
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#13
IP: 24.152.132.140
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I think the guys are correlating the symptoms as presented to a common conclusion often repeated in the past. A coil overheated to the point of damage will fail but somewhat miraculously appear to temporarily heal itself when it cools down. Their suggestion is not conclusive but rather something to explore. With the new information that you have an oil pressure alarm that provides a reliable reminder to switch off the ignition when the engine is not running, the overheated coil possibility, although not entirely off the table, is less likely.
We don't even know for sure yet if the shut down was fuel or spark related.
__________________
Neil 1977 Catalina 30 San Pedro, California prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22 Had my hands in a few others Last edited by ndutton; 06-12-2019 at 10:44 PM. |
#14
IP: 128.220.159.8
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Ah, that makes sense!
And I agree that there is not enough information. I am planning for the weekend to (a) purchase the equipment for an exhaust manifold pressure check and do the test (b) make sure the coolant system is full, at least the main reservoir and overflow container (c) run the motor for a while (an hour?) under load in the slip and take a series of temperature measurements at different locations: at the coolant pump, hose from motor block (head) to exhaust manifold, hose exiting exhaust manifold (d) after running the motor, check coolant level again. That should provide some data, right? Anything else I should do? |
#15
IP: 97.93.70.7
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Ernst, when you shut it down check the spark again to be sure it is still the "snappy blue" spark you started with. Check it cold and keep the stuff around so you can again immediately after running.
RE the running duplicate it as much as possible by keeping the engine hatch closed except for "momentary" monitoring. Dave Neptune |
#16
IP: 73.133.67.239
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Quote:
RE testing the spark, how do I do that? Start the motor with one of the plugs removed, put it on the motor block and look at the spark? Or: remove one of the spark plugs, turn on ignition, turn the motor over? I have a push-button in the motor room to switch on the starter. And I suppose the 'snappy blue spark' will be kind of obvious, and easily distinguished from a weak non-blue spark? Sorry, I am pretty new to this diagnostics things. As I said the A-4 ran smoothly for years and years.... tx |
#17
IP: 99.30.185.198
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The easiest way that I know of to check for spark, is to simply use a "fifth" spark plug, laying on top of the motor. Just connect any of the four plug wires to it, and with the ignition on, crank the engine over. If there is a spark, it would indicate that the ignition system is working. If there is a spark and the engine won't run, then you either have a fuel problem, or the engine is flooded. Even though this fifth spark plug is just laying on the cylinder head, there is enough "contact" to complete the connection.
Tom |
#18
IP: 71.38.87.228
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One additional step to add...
BEFORE checking for spark, smell for gas and I suggest running the blower for a couple of minutes. I know this is a pretty basic warning but around here we'd rather be safe and state the obvious.
__________________
-Jerry 'Lone Ranger' 1978 RANGER 30 |
#19
IP: 128.220.159.8
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One of the things where you slap your forehead and say 'why didn't I think of that?' |
#20
IP: 128.220.159.8
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I always run the blower and I also have a gas alarm installed in the engine compartment. |
#21
IP: 70.185.132.167
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On another subject, do you have the Moyer manual? It is a treasure trove of information on the A4. I didn't reread the thread. Maybe it has been mentioned already. TRUE GRIT |
The Following User Says Thank You to JOHN COOKSON For This Useful Post: | ||
thatch (06-14-2019) |
#22
IP: 100.36.65.17
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Go to your local Harbor Freight and pick up one of these fluid line clamp kits. Cheap ($8), easy to use, and keeps your coolant loss to about half a cup when changing impellers.
__________________
@(^.^)@ Ed 1977 Pearson P-323 "Dolce Vita" with rebuilt Atomic-4 |
The Following User Says Thank You to edwardc For This Useful Post: | ||
ernst (09-07-2020) |
06-14-2019, 11:34 AM |
ernst |
This message has been deleted by Administrator.
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#23
IP: 128.220.159.8
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Quote:
BTW, do you know if electronic ignition avoids this problem? Maybe I should think about it. But that leads us a little away from the main topic of this thread. Has not been mentioned in this thread. But yes, I have the Moyer 'bible'. |
#24
IP: 128.220.159.8
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Quote:
After I lost all the coolant in the first place, I emailed Tom Stevens (Indigo) and he suggested I use visegrips on the hoses. I did that and it worked but I am a bit concerned about damage to the hoses. These clamps looks a bit more gentle. |
#25
IP: 138.207.175.58
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Maybe we need to start a new category for neat toys from Harbor Freight.
Bill |
Tags |
circlip, coolant, snap ring, water pump |
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