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  #1   IP: 71.35.109.198
Old 05-21-2013, 08:53 PM
robshepherd robshepherd is offline
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Question about exhaust hot section

Greetings,

I have found a small hole in my hot section, and would like to ask for some advice before attempting a repair. I did read the following thread, so I have a general idea about what's involved: http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6827

My hot section seems pretty similar to what others have, judging from the pictures I've seen here. Basically a pipe exiting the exhaust flange runs about 2 feet, connects to a black iron 90-degree elbow, and another short length of pipe into the base of the water lift muffler. The hole is at the bottom of the 2' section, right where it joins the elbow. It's very rusty, and the parts look like they're welded together with corrosion. I'm sure many of you can imagine what this looks like... Here is my question: The 2' section is not the typical straight pipe I see in most photos here. Rather, it is a piece of metal, flexible pipe that is threaded on both ends. The exhaust flange is slightly higher than the 90-degree elbow, and the pipe has enough flexibility to drop about an inch or so before it reaches the elbow. What is this pipe material called, where might I find it, and what other options do I have for replacing it? (Sorry, three questions...).

I suspect I will need to carefully remove the flange, replace with new, and take the whole assembly out of the boat to disconnect the corroded parts from the water lift muffler. The boat has a white hull and blue boot stripe, by the way (nod to Tom and Ray from Car Talk...). Thank you in advance for your time!
Regards, Rob
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Old 05-21-2013, 09:06 PM
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Question

Flex pipe in marine applications is usually used because of weight or vibration considerations. Your configuration sounds unusual; could you post a picture?
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Old 05-21-2013, 09:16 PM
robshepherd robshepherd is offline
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Picture

Indeed. I will take some good pictures tomorrow and post them. Didn't have my camera at the boat this morning.... Thanks Clifford! -Rob
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Old 05-21-2013, 09:28 PM
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Welcome aboard. The type of boat would help as well. Perhaps one of our regulars has one like it.
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Old 05-21-2013, 10:35 PM
robshepherd robshepherd is offline
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Pictures

I've attached 4 pictures to this post. In the next post I will attach a couple from the other side of the bulkhead, where the muffler is installed in the head.

The boat is a S&S Yankee 30. By the way, I can't complain about engine access. Right in the middle of the cabin. Thank you!
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Last edited by robshepherd; 05-21-2013 at 10:41 PM.
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Old 05-21-2013, 10:38 PM
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A few more pictures

And, the hot section as seen below the water lift muffler. Plus a picture of my wife Yuki in the cockpit, as seen from the cabin. Hah!

Do these pictures give any of you ideas about how I should proceed and what kind of parts I should use?

Thanks! -Rob
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Old 05-21-2013, 10:45 PM
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what glorious access to the engine.

Is that your wife? We always loves pics of beautiful women..they are much more exciting than engine pics!

Oh right...I am supposed to focus on the motor..sorry..


Is that some type of standpipe configuration, hanley? maybe some black iron between the manifold and standpipe?

It also looks like the exhaust must go out the front of the manifold..maybe it has the 'either end' Moyer manifold too.

You might be lucky..just a change out of the black iron parts between the engine and standpipe and off you go. I am curious where the exhaust goes on the other side of the bulkhead!

Oooo..i see a heat exchanger too, so it must fresh water cooled...always fun to play show & tell with a new-to-us motor!
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Last edited by sastanley; 05-21-2013 at 10:57 PM.
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Old 05-21-2013, 10:53 PM
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That looks like a stand pipe, and not a water lift muffler. It looks pretty straight forward to replace. 1 1/4 back iron pipe is usually used. The flexible section was probably used to make the needed angle from the manifold.

The challenge is to use standard plumbing fittings to get to the same place. I can tell the angle from the pictures. You may need to get a pipe bent to fit.

Is the hot section usually not insulated? It looks a bit unsafe that way. I know this, as I have a tartan 34 with a stand pipe and a long hot section.

Great pictures. We still need to see that muffler/stand pipe.

Very cute admiral. Can she cook?
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Old 05-21-2013, 10:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sastanley View Post
Is that your wife? We always loves pics of beautiful women..they are much more exciting than engine pics!
Indeed, that's her. Add to that, she loves to sail as much as I do! Lucky guy....

The engine access is fantastic, no doubt. This is a Yankee 30 MK III. They layouts with a setee don't have as good of access. This layout has a small table above the engine, and the table will fold out into the salon making it twice as large, supported by a leg at the end of the table. Under the table is chart storage, and the whole works is hinged for access to either charts, or the motor (never seem to need to look at both at the same time. Haha)
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Old 05-21-2013, 10:54 PM
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It does look like a standpipe. Hard to visualize the whole system. I could not see the hole either.
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Old 05-21-2013, 11:02 PM
robshepherd robshepherd is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hanleyclifford View Post
It does look like a standpipe. Hard to visualize the whole system. I could not see the hole either.
Ah. Ok. Let me try to explain a bit, and excuse my ignorance regarding standpipe vs. water lift muffler. I'm pretty sure you guys are identifying what I have correctly based on my pictures.

That flex pipe enters the 90 elbow just on the other side of the bulkhead in the head. You can probably glean that from the photos. In the second set of photos I posted, the 90 is at the bottom, and you can just see a portion of the standpipe (?). It's kind of copper-colored. The heater hose that enters is carrying hot water from the heat exchanger. The iron is carrying the hot exhaust. This copper-colored pipe is about 4" in diameter, and about 5 feet tall. Near the top of this large pipe there is heater hose exiting, carrying what I presume to be exhaust gas and hot water--all the way to the transom where it exits.

Regarding the hole, it is located on the bottom side of the flex pipe, JUST as it connects to the 90 degree elbow. Impossible to get a picture of it though

Does this help you better visualize the entire system? Space is a little cramped for the lenses I have.... Apologies.
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Old 05-21-2013, 11:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by romantic comedy View Post
You may need to get a pipe bent to fit.

Is the hot section usually not insulated? It looks a bit unsafe that way. I know this, as I have a tartan 34 with a stand pipe and a long hot section.

Great pictures. We still need to see that muffler/stand pipe.

Very cute admiral. Can she cook?
I see. Have something bent to fit, rather than replace with flex pipe.?

It is usually insulated. I removed all of it for access. Normally has the fiberglass matting, and then wrapped with something similar to what Moyer offers for sale on the site.

The admiral can cook, but seems to prefer my cooking. She likes steering the boat better than stirring the pot.
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Old 05-21-2013, 11:09 PM
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Rob,

That is a stand pipe. The sea water enters it at the bottom, and does the exhaust gas. At some point, they mix together and exit the stand pipe, and then the transom. If i understand it.

You say that it exits thru a heater hose? What diameter? I hope it is bigger then the engine heater hose (5/8).
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Old 05-21-2013, 11:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by romantic comedy View Post
You say that it exits thru a heater hose? What diameter? I hope it is bigger then the engine heater hose (5/8).
Yes, it is a larger diameter than the 5/8 hose. Possibly 1.5". I have excellent cooling, by the way. Had the heat exchanger serviced last year after overheating. New hoses, impeller, etc.

Thanks! -Rob
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Old 05-21-2013, 11:24 PM
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So now, I am sure that is a stand pipe.

I would expect the water/exhaust to exit a bit lower, but it does need to be above the water line.

On my Tartan, the stand pipe is mounted with the bottom above the water line, so the exhaust exits just above the entrance.

This really is not that important. You just need to get it going. That seems to mean that you need to replace the hot pipe.

Once you figure the angle, and the fitting you will need, it is straight forward. At least as easy as it can be in a boat.

1 1/4 black iron is re;relatively cheap and easy to get. Galvanized pipe is the same, but the galvanized is toxic when it burns off. I did use a piece of galvanized but sanded off the coating.
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Old 05-21-2013, 11:33 PM
robshepherd robshepherd is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by romantic comedy View Post
Once you figure the angle, and the fitting you will need, it is straight forward. At least as easy as it can be in a boat.
Ok. Sounds good. Let me see if I can summarize what I need to do here, and please correct me.

Purchase a new exhaust manifold flange and gasket from Moyer. Carefully disconnect the old flange (easier said than done?). I suspect these old iron parts will be very difficult to remove. Do I remove the standpipe from the boat to gain access to a vice and some elbow room? Disassemble and replace the iron parts.

Regarding getting the angle correct, is it unreasonable to expect that I can replace that metal flex pipe with another piece of metal flex? That seems like an easy solution.

Thank you everyone for your comments so far! -Rob
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Old 05-21-2013, 11:50 PM
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From the picture, your flange looks good. You can cut thru the flex pipe, to remove it, and get easier access to the flange.

It is a matter of how hard it is to get apart. The bolts that go thru the flange will probably be hard to get out. Heat and penetrant are the way to go there. MMI has stainless studs that I recommend when reassembling.

Try to unscrew the pipe from the flange on the engine. If you cant, then cut the pipe of 2 inches from the flange. Then try it in a vice. Again, heat and penetrant. If that doe not do it, then put a hack saw blade thru the pipe, and saw just until you get to the flange threads. Then collapse it inward.

I have no experience with flexible pipe. I have heard that it does not last very long. Maybe others might have advice there. I think if it was good, we all would be using it.

Removing the stand pipe, will make it so much easier to disassemble. That union will probably come apart easier.

You may have a little wiggle room with the new pipe, and mounting the stand pipe in the same place. When I did mine, it was an inch higher. That is good, is what I am saying.

Also with bending the pipe..I have no experience, so ask around. Also if you need a specific length that is not available, you should be able to get a piece cut and threaded. You just need to know the length.
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Old 05-22-2013, 12:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by romantic comedy View Post
From the picture, your flange looks good. You can cut thru the flex pipe, to remove it, and get easier access to the flange.
Ok! Perfectly understood, and your comments are very helpful. Regarding longevity of the flex pipe, I believe it was installed by the previous owner about 10 years ago. We don't motor a lot, so it's difficult to say how long it might last with more use. We've owned her for 5.

I know of a shop in town that can cut custom lengths and thread them for me. I feel like I've got enough info/understanding to tackle this now. Thank you very much for your time and comments! Much appreciated.

If anybody else chimes in, that's great too! -Rob
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Old 05-22-2013, 10:45 AM
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Custom car/Hot-rod shops often have the ability to fabricate exhaust system parts, if you need a truly weird offset bend in that hot section.

<slightly off-topic>
You mentioned that the cooling system had been redone. I noticed a fairly new looking Thermostatic Control Valve (TCV) in one of the photos.

Also, looks like there's a lot of corrosion/weepage around the back plate of the Oberdorfer coolant pump.
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Old 05-22-2013, 11:32 AM
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Water pump

Quote:
Originally Posted by edwardc View Post
You mentioned that the cooling system had been redone. I noticed a fairly new looking Thermostatic Control Valve (TCV) in one of the photos.

Also, looks like there's a lot of corrosion/weepage around the back plate of the Oberdorfer coolant pump.
Thanks Ed. Yes, the TCV was installed years ago by the PO. I haven't had a need to adjust it. Regarding the pump, you're correct. Would a new gasket likely address this issue?

Thank you! -Rob
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Old 05-27-2013, 09:50 AM
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Rob,
Your exhaust looks very similar to my Tartan 30. (The boats are similar too - yours is a Tartan 30 with 9' beam. One S&S design number before the Tartan with 10' beam).
My exhaust does fine without the flex pipe. My guess is that you only need the flex pipe if your engine is on resilient mount. My engine is mounted hard to the engine bed.
Don't work too hard to get the old hot section apart. Just cut it up - replacement pipe is cheap. The only parts you should work to save are the mixing can and the flange at the manifold. That union is there for assembly - not disassembly! Moyer sells a replacement mixing can - start saving money now then you'll be prepared for when you need a new one.
Best..

Al
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