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Old 05-24-2019, 12:03 PM
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Exclamation Revs down and shuts off! HELP

My A4 starts great/runs great for about 3min then quits. There is a seacock where the fresh water comes in to prevent the engine flooding with water. I forgot to shut it. Started the engine and blew the head gasket. I replaced the head gasket. Although in the process 2 of the studs broke off. I had to retap the holes and put in new studs. Also the thermostat had a crack in it so I ordered a new one and replaced it. After getting the engine put back together she started great and ran great but stalls. I thought the issue was fuel. I put in a new water separating fuel filter. Took off the fuel pump and carb, cleaned them out and replaced with new gaskets. The engine is getting fuel. Once the engine gets up to temp it shuts down. Theres no temperature gauge installed. It’s spitting out water well. I have a YouTube channel. Sailing Reckless. Theres an episode called Don’t watch this unless you love engines. I think in that one you can see the engine.
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Old 05-24-2019, 04:44 PM
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Welcome to the forum. Sounds as if your float valve may be sticking or only opening a little and not allowing fuel to refill the carb properly.
Dan
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Old 05-24-2019, 07:31 PM
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SR, does it die like it was shut off or sputter and shake to a stop? Do you have points?

Dave Neptune
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Old 05-24-2019, 10:04 PM
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"Sounds as if your float valve may be sticking or only opening a little and not allowing fuel to refill the carb properly."

When I opened up the carburetor the float and pin both looked really good. Nothing that would lead me to believe that it may be sticking. What would cause that?

Last edited by SailingReckless; 05-24-2019 at 10:16 PM.
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Old 05-24-2019, 10:14 PM
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"SR, does it die like it was shut off or sputter and shake to a stop? Do you have points?"
The engine starts easily and once started I can push the choke back in and throttle down to idle. Runs well for a few minutes and then just shuts down. No sputtering or shaking. More like the key got turned off. Throttling up or choking does not help keep it running. And...I don't know what points are!

Last edited by SailingReckless; 05-24-2019 at 10:17 PM. Reason: left something out
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Old 05-25-2019, 12:54 AM
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This may help.
http://www.moyermarineforum.com/foru...oat+adjustment
Dan
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  #7   IP: 107.77.92.124
Old 05-25-2019, 01:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SailingReckless View Post
"SR, does it die like it was shut off or sputter and shake to a stop? Do you have points?"
.... And...I don't know what points are!
Ignition breaker points.
I think Dave is wondering if your engine has been modified with a new "pointless" ignition set in the distributor.
Since this is unfamiliar stuff for you, we may have to do some remedial engine education. That's ok. Sometimes we talk way over the heads of non mech types. You would best be served to read up(or youtube) on basic spark ignition types. Ill post some resource links here soon.

https://youtu.be/W94iksaQwUo
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Last edited by lat 64; 05-25-2019 at 01:47 AM.
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Old 05-25-2019, 08:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marian Claire View Post
This may help.
http://www.moyermarineforum.com/foru...oat+adjustment
Dan
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Ok, this is great! I will be taking the carb back off to have a more informed look at it. Thanks!
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Old 05-25-2019, 09:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lat 64 View Post
Ignition breaker points.
I think Dave is wondering if your engine has been modified with a new "pointless" ignition set in the distributor.
Since this is unfamiliar stuff for you, we may have to do some remedial engine education. That's ok. Sometimes we talk way over the heads of non mech types. You would best be served to read up(or youtube) on basic spark ignition types. Ill post some resource links here soon.

https://youtu.be/W94iksaQwUo
I watched the video and now know what points are but I’m sorry I don’t know if I have the pointless set. I’m not at my boat right now so I can’t look at the model and try to search it. That said, I know that I do have compression in each cylinder and spark from each plug. Do you know what benefit this pointless system has? Do you think that if I still have the old version that it’s overheating or worn out causing the abrupt shut down?
And thank you for your patience
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Old 05-25-2019, 09:33 AM
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RE the ignition, I was wondering if it just may be the "condenser or coil" but 3 minutes is a bit fast for those to open.

Do you have an electric fuel pump? If so check the oil pressure switch wiring as the fuel pump may only be working when cranking. Rare but possible.

We need to know a bit more about your engine and if it has been changed from original points & mechanical fuel pump.

Hoe is the wiring? Did you check for voltage at the coil when it dies?

Dave Neptune
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Old 05-25-2019, 09:34 AM
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Last night I was reading a thread about fuel/air leaks. I would not doubt that I have one or several of these. I have recently figured something out....when something says hand tighten....that is meant for a man. My hand tighten usually isn't snug enough. However an issue I am running in to is that a lot of the metal is soft and tools are rounding parts over
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Old 05-25-2019, 10:02 AM
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SR, rounding off parts(?) do you mean nuts a bolts rounding? If so sounds more like bad tools or non factory rated stuff has been added. Also do not use open end wrenches whenever a 6 or 12 point will get on the hex far stronger and better on the nuts & bolts. Make sure they fit nice before twisting saves many a nut, bolt and knuckle.

Dave Neptune
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Old 05-25-2019, 10:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SailingReckless View Post
I watched the video and now know what points are but I’m sorry I don’t know if I have the pointless set.
And thank you for your patience
Sailing...
You might just be a great candidate for some of Don's online videos.
Really detailed step-by-step instruction and for $12 boat bucks, it's a great deal.
The Carb Troubleshooting and Ignition Timing would both be recommended.

Available here on this site from our host.
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Old 05-25-2019, 11:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Neptune View Post
RE the ignition, I was wondering if it just may be the "condenser or coil" but 3 minutes is a bit fast for those to open.

Do you have an electric fuel pump? If so check the oil pressure switch wiring as the fuel pump may only be working when cranking. Rare but possible.

We need to know a bit more about your engine and if it has been changed from original points & mechanical fuel pump.

Hoe is the wiring? Did you check for voltage at the coil when it dies?

Dave Neptune
It has the mechanical fuel pump. I took it off and cleaned everything I could. I did notice a couple things yesterday that I’ll mention even though I have no idea if they relate to this. I had the key turned on, without cranking the engine over yet that day, for probably 5 minutes and the coil (ignition/distributor?) was hot to touch.
Last year when I turned the key over there was a buzzing sound down at the engine. This year no buzzing. Buzzing like a warning system. I don’t know if I disconnected a wire on accident🤦🏻*♀️ I’ll post pics of everything. I’m sure that will help. I’ll be at the boat tomorrow.
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Old 05-25-2019, 11:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Neptune View Post
SR, rounding off parts(?) do you mean nuts a bolts rounding? If so sounds more like bad tools or non factory rated stuff has been added. Also do not use open end wrenches whenever a 6 or 12 point will get on the hex far stronger and better on the nuts & bolts. Make sure they fit nice before twisting saves many a nut, bolt and knuckle.

Dave Neptune
There are two copper fuel lines that I believe can only be adjusted with crescent wrenches. The nuts on the lines are quite rounded. Hard to get those tightened on. Considering changing over to black lines that I’ve seen on other engines.
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Old 05-25-2019, 01:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SailingReckless View Post
I had the key turned on, without cranking the engine over yet that day, for probably 5 minutes and the coil (ignition/distributor?) was hot to touch.
Regardless of whether or not the coil was involved in the original problem, this episode has damaged it so it needs to be replaced too. In its current damaged condition you can expect maybe 45 minutes of run time before problems emerge. With a points style ignition and proper dwell, probably a little bit longer.
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Old 05-25-2019, 02:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ndutton View Post
Regardless of whether or not the coil was involved in the original problem, this episode has damaged it so it needs to be replaced too. In its current damaged condition you can expect maybe 45 minutes of run time before problems emerge. With a points style ignition and proper dwell, probably a little bit longer.
Do you say it’s damaged because with the key on it’s getting hot?
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Old 05-25-2019, 02:05 PM
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S.R.,
Im glad you got something from the video.

So much to digest at first, so take it one problem at a time. Then, start a new thread with the next issue.
As for the handprint on forehead thing(🤦🏻*♀️), not an issue on this forum. Your willingness to learn and articulate your questions will get some great feedback. As they say" there are no stupid questions, only stupid answers". We will try to avoid stupid answers for you😜.

Photos are helpful for us to assess your system(s).

I predict that even you will be contributing to help a newbie in a couple months.

Re: black fuel line, that's probably rubber. Make sure its USCG approved type for gasoline on boats.

Cheers,

Russ
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Old 05-25-2019, 02:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SailingReckless View Post
Do you say it’s damaged because with the key on it’s getting hot?
Exactly. Under normal running conditions the coil is being switched on and off but that is not the case when the key is left on and the engine is not running. With the coil switched on for a prolonged period it keeps getting hotter and hotter much like a soldering iron to the point that the insulation on the coil's internal windings becomes damaged. After cooling the coil usually returns to operation but is now less tolerant of heat, even normal operating heat.

We don't know how hot your coil got because "hot to touch" is not an accurate measurement but 5 minutes time is certainly enough for damage so at this time it is prudent to make certain you have a coil in good condition which by your report, this one cannot be trusted.

You might also consider Moyer's basic oil pressure and temperature alarm system. With the key on and the engine off you'll have no oil pressure which will cause the buzzer to alert you.
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Old 05-26-2019, 12:44 AM
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I had similar problem a few years back where the engine started and ran fine for about 2 -4 min or so then just died as if the ignition was shut off. Checked points, fuel, compression, spark, extra fuel source, changed coil etc - no joy. An older [if possible] harbor mate suggested changing out the condenser - solved the problem, now I always carry a couple of spares [and coil] - not sure they are made as good as they used to be.
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Old 05-26-2019, 10:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam View Post
I had similar problem a few years back where the engine started and ran fine for about 2 -4 min or so then just died as if the ignition was shut off. Checked points, fuel, compression, spark, extra fuel source, changed coil etc - no joy. An older [if possible] harbor mate suggested changing out the condenser - solved the problem, now I always carry a couple of spares [and coil] - not sure they are made as good as they used to be.
Yessssss! Success! Spent the night on the boat last night. First thing this morning, as soon as the parts store opened, I picked up a new coil. Put it on and........no stalling!

Now to move on to the next issue
So much white smoke coming out of the exhaust

THANK YOU ALL SOOOO MUCH
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Old 05-26-2019, 10:42 AM
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Please tell us about the new coil (brand and model, internal resistance).
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Old 05-26-2019, 11:17 AM
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I don't see a brand name on it or the box it came in.
The part number is 18-5435. The box reads (has internal resistor) Replaces Crusader 41080. I paid $54.99 at the local marine supply.
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Old 05-26-2019, 11:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SailingReckless View Post
The box reads (has internal resistor) Replaces Crusader 41080.
Bingo! Internal resistance is 2.70 ~ 3.36 Ohms, excellent for the A4 points ignition application. Well done.
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Old 05-26-2019, 11:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SailingReckless View Post
I don't see a brand name on it or the box it came in.
The part number is 18-5435. The box reads (has internal resistor) Replaces Crusader 41080. I paid $54.99 at the local marine supply.
Here is a pic of the new coil.
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