Broken oil pressure sending unit nipple

[ndutton]

OK, here's what I did

The first picture is the bulkhead mounted sensor array; EWDS oil switch on top, gauge sender next, OPSS last, all mounted on a 1/8" NPT brass fitting manifold. The manifold is attached with ty-wraps screwed to the backing block.



The second picture is a close-up of the ground wire connection (circled). I used a ring terminal crimp connector and put it under a hose clamp around the manifold at the first Tee right above the barb for the oil hose from the engine. When tightened the ring terminal curved nicely to the manifold. Low tech but effective.



FWIW, I'm not a fan of attaching multiple wires to the batteries regardless of apparent convenience. For me it's battery cables only. Once you start with an additional wire or two on the battery posts it easily turns into a slippery slope and fodder for your future buyer's angst about the P.O. (you!).

[roadnsky]

Two Tee's and an elbow in my case. Be sure to run a ground wire from the block to the sensor array.

Thanks. Already have it over on that side for the Facet.

[TomG]

Shawn and Neil,

Thank you for the quick answers and the especially the pictures. I like what you did there Shawn with the buss bar setup. Very clever and it leaves room for future circuits.

Neil, oddly enough my first idea was to do exactly as you have done: ring terminal under a clamp or screw wired directly to the engine for a ground. But I also use these guys for direct to battery wiring for my bilge pump and solar panel and was toying with just tapping off a ground from there:



I'm not crazy about a lot of wires to the battery either, so I think I'll just run a ground back to the block. Thanks for the input gentlemen!

[sastanley]

Tom, When I added the bus bar, I at first said...'this is crazy...why am I adding this fancy bus bar for one circuit?'

As you can see, that bus bar is almost full now..

Now that I am working on re-wiring a lot of the cabin, I recently had to add a ground bus bar for the electrical panel..it too, looked silly with one circuit, but after I finished re-routing my mast stuff, and realized all of my grounds had been on the main bus, I am up to about 5 or 6 already.

[Bryanbt]

Another Broken oil pressure sending unit nipple

I am not sure if anyone is reading this old thread but I find myself in a self made minor crisis of my own doing...

Yesterday when I tried to unscrew the oil pressure sending unit, I snapped off the ?copper nipple flush with the engine block (Pictures below). This leads me to two crucial questions

1. What is the safest/best way to extract the nipple? I have read this thread and there seems to be conflicting information about the safety of using some types of extractors. Looking online, the Walton style extractor seems to be the most reliable and least likely to leave metal shavings behind or damage the thread on the engine block. It also seems sturdily built and unlikely to break as some others apparently do. Has anyone tried these? Any other recommendations (preferably available on amazon.ca or from MM!)
If I were to use such an extractor, what is the size /internal diameter of this nipple so that I can get the right extractor?


2. Some people on this thread recommended eliminating the nipple entirely and externally mounting the pressure and sending units and connecting a flexible hose to the engine block. Can someone give me more details on the exact hardware needed to connect the hose to the engine black?

3. Alternatively, what is the replacement nipple I need? I can’t seem to find the right part in the catalog.. I tried “oil system” and searched “nipple” but not clear what to get…

[GregH]

romantic comedy
Your right , they are almost the same a torx but the teeth are twice as long
I haven't tried them on a broken bolt yet and hope that I never have to.
Easyouts put a lot of outward stress on the metal / block ,
I'm guessing here ! due to the reverse threads
,easyouts could & can crack the softer metal A-4 block .
what I like about these bit is that , you just hammer /tap,tap,tap, them in and you can use a socket with a extension for those hard to get to places
Again Stay away from (*&$#$%%^&^*(easyouts
I'll try and fined out more info on them next time I'm at Princess auto in Canada
Mo , you should be familiar with this store ?
cheers Rick

Is this what you mean? - https://www.princessauto.com/en/deta...et/A-p8619462e

[Bryanbt]

Almost. they seem to come in different shapes and designs. From what I can tell, designs are more prone to breakage than others and others work better if the metal hardness or softness is taken into account when choosing th tool .

The one I propose to use is made by Walton. It seems well built, has stood the test of time and is said to be suitable for soft metals.

Here is a picture, as well as a link to a video showing it in use.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Wns8rs1mVc

Any idea if someone with this problem has used this successfully?

[Bryanbt]

Broken oil pressure sending unit nipple - some progress

In case anyone is following, the extractor did work but it took much much more pressure than I expected. I did a test run first by trying to remove the intact part of the nipple that had sheared off the block from the "Y" fitting that was still attached ( I posted a picture of that part a few earlier in the thread). Even in the controlled setting of my shop, with the Y in a vice, it still took more force than I expected.Despite this warning, I still found it surprising how much force I needed to extract the remainder of the nipple from the A4 block once back at the boat. This for a part that is supposedly in an oil-rich environment.

As you can see from the picture, there was quite a lot of the thread inside the block, suggesting to me that it was properly threaded when originally inserted. You can also see however that the part of the thread closest to the break area was quite damaged during the extraction. Perhaps this area was already weakened by the shearing forces when it broke?

Unfortunately, I am unable to thread in a replacement nipple despite verifying that the thread is correct since it goes into the Y fitting as well as the old one did. I am hoping it is just dirt and that it can be chased out. I am really worried about tapping or anything else that will inevitably introduce metal shavings into the block so an very hopeful cleaning and chasing the old thread will be enough!

The suggestion of a barb and remote installation of the sensors, as mentioned by some earlier in the thread, looks more and more attractive!

Any suggestions or advice would be most appreciated!

[Bryanbt]

Happy to report that there appears to be absolutely no thread damage to the engine block thread. Really impressed with the Walton nipple extractor given the amount of force I had to use. Using the brass nipple as a chaser, a small nylon brush and a lot of patience, I can now get almost four full, very smooth, turns of the thread into the block. As far as I can tell, patience and time, will now get me there.

However I do not want to go through this again and will now go back into this thread and look at the option of externally mounting the sensors and connecting with a hose barb.