Filler hose advice

[sdemore]

On my '73 C&C 30 the fuel filler hose travels down from the deck to the fuel tank, mounted to the bottom of the cockpit floor. The pipe on the fuel tank goes straight up about 3". There was a thin, flexible, rubber, 1 1/4", 90 degree (maybe 110 degrees) elbow that connected from the fuel filler hose, using a small brass nipple, to the inlet pipe on the tank. That elbow split and when I was putting gas in, spilled it in the engine compartment.

I don't know if there is anything about this elbow that makes it safe for gas, but I can't find anything in that size to replace it. I found a piece of formed radiator hose that works, but I am a bit leery of using radiator hose for gas. Regular fuel pipe won't work because it can't bend sharply enough.

Suggestions?

In the photo, the fuel hose is coming in from the left and there is only an inch or so of space between the elbow and the cockpit floor.

[ndutton]

Check this out:

http://www.fillernecksupply.com/1-1-4-inch-33mm-90-degree-elbow-rubber-fuel-filler-neck-hose/

Be sure to confirm it's ethanol rated.

[joe_db]

That thing is DANGEROUS
Mine developed a split and gas went about 50/50 into the tank and the bilge It looked like some plumbing store piece for a sink and was definitely NOT rated for ethanol gasoline. I know of one C&C 35 that exploded and burned after refueling and I will bet it was that same piece letting loose.

I replaced it with an aluminum elbow I got fabricated for the job. I'll post a photo later today.

[roadnsky]

My tank is mounted in a similar manner.
Tight space under the cockpit.
But the fill hose makes the 90° turn thru a bronze elbow.

[ndutton]

One of my tanks is below the quarter berth, nylon elbow on the fill.

[joe_db]

My tank is mounted in a similar manner.
Tight space under the cockpit.
But the fill hose makes the 90° turn thru a bronze elbow.

I don't have that much space - you'll see when I find the photo. I could have saved a lot of $$ using nylon, but was not sure if it is fuel rated. This (https://www.mcmaster.com/#5372k379/=194gi35) cost WAY less than my custom aluminum piece, but it was not obvious to me it was fuel rated. The local fabricator, despite being told this would be in a place no one would ever see, insisted on making a work of art and it was about $140 It has nice knurled bands for the hose to grip and so on.

[sdemore]

That thing is DANGEROUS
Mine developed a split and gas went about 50/50 into the tank and the bilge It looked like some plumbing store piece for a sink and was definitely NOT rated for ethanol gasoline. I know of one C&C 35 that exploded and burned after refueling and I will bet it was that same piece letting loose.

I replaced it with an aluminum elbow I got fabricated for the job. I'll post a photo later today.

I found out this one was split when I put a couple gallons in the tank and about half traveled down the bilge. Fortunately, I had a oil absorbent pad under the engine and it sopped it all up. I'm almost ready to launch this boat for the first time (since I picked it up) and these last minute things are killing me. I have a piece of radiator hose in there right now, but I want to do it right before launching.

I also picked up a fresh water cooling system today, so another thing I need to get done...

[joe_db]

Still can't find the photo. I got Kato to weld two 1.5" OD aluminum tubes together at right angles to replace the horrible thing C&C used. If you want, I could call them and see if they have the records of how they made it. It really was a work of art, with polished welds and knurled friction services for the hose Or you could get a nylon piece if anyone can confirm it won't dissolve That radiator hose thing has to go, fuel proof or not it is obviously being pulled out of line and will split sooner or later.

[tac]

I realise the radiator hose is meant to be temporary, but from USCG requirements (see the ABYC and USCG Standards Discussion Topics):

"183.558 Hoses and connections.
(b) Each hose used:
(1) For a vent line or fill line must be:
(i) “USCG Type A1” or “USCG Type A2”; or
(ii) “USCG Type B1” or “USCG Type B2” if no more than five ounces of fuel is discharged in 2-1/2 minutes when:
(A) The hose is severed at the point where maximum drainage of fuel would occur,
(B) The boat is in its static floating position, and
(C) The fuel system is filled to the capacity marked on the tank label under Sec. 183.514(b)(3)."

And further in the same section:

"Hose connections may be made by one of the following means:
(a) SWAGED SLEEVE: This type of connection is usually made by the supplier of a hose assembly since special machinery or apparatus is necessary to perform the swaging operation. The attachment to the fuel system is usually made by means of a threaded hose fitting.
(b) SLEEVE AND THREADED INSERT: This type of connection usually can be made by an installer using normal shop tools. Usually the sleeve is placed on the outside of the hose and the threaded insert is screwed into the inside of the hose and sleeve. There are also connections in which the sleeve is installed on the hose after the insert is installed. The attachment to the fuel system is usually made by means of a threaded hose fitting.
(c) HOSE CLAMP: This type of connection is usually made upon installation using normal shop tools. The device usually has a mechanically operated tightening mechanism such as a screw or bolt but may require a specific means of deformation to secure the connection. A hose clamp is usually slipped on each end of the hose in a loosened condition, the hose installed and the hose clamp tightened. The attachment to the fuel system is usually made by means of a beaded, flared or serrated spud, pipe or hose fitting."

The ABYC recommendations are similar.