My A4 adventures

[sastanley]

Ando, #1 - Permatex or similar in the flange gasket area?
#2 These updraft carbs sometimes stumble on throttle up..fine tuning of various things can help here..most often I've found is the teeny holes in between the main butterfly valve might be dirty. I use bread twisty ties to clean these..they are small!!
#3 - Maybe related to #2..airflow problem maybe..they all work together.

The real key we've all found is to do one thing at a time and re-run and try again so you know which thing helped or did not help it run better.

[Ando]

Ando, #1 - Permatex or similar in the flange gasket area?
#2 These updraft carbs sometimes stumble on throttle up..fine tuning of various things can help here..most often I've found is the teeny holes in between the main butterfly valve might be dirty. I use bread twisty ties to clean these..they are small!!
#3 - Maybe related to #2..airflow problem maybe..they all work together.

The real key we've all found is to do one thing at a time and re-run and try again so you know which thing helped or did not help it run better.

I’m back at the lil yachty.

As for the permatex: I don’t know...I’m just following the instructions on the thread I hyperlinked above...but it didn’t work all the way. It helped, but there’s still water seeping out the base of the thermostat housing. And I torqued it down as hard as I could (I don’t have a torque wrench). Maybe I’m just weak? Or weaker than I thought?

As for the carb: ✅ x 2 (or three times) when I pulled the carb. I put a metallic wire down those tiny holes a few times during the carb rebuild. I stopped when I found myself questioning myself if I was needlessly scraping the inside of those little holes to be sure.

As I said, I’m back at the boat and have the following to report:
1. I turned the idle mixture adjustment screw a quarter turn clockwise to see if it makes a difference. Ran a bit and died.
2. While it ran for the short time it did, I opened the through hull valve and as above, it’s still leaking, albeit a bit less than it was earlier today; and
3. bc it stalled out and wouldn’t re-start, I was not able to play with the throttle and choke;
4. As for the exhaust fumes from the connection between the motor and the exhaust pipe, I need a 15mm wrench which I don’t have right now so that’s a tool I gotta grab from the house and that’s to be continued too.

[Ando]

Re the water leak on the thermostat housing, would it help to get/do I need a stand alone thermostat housing spacer? Or maybe even the spacer and stud kit?

As for the power, after an attempt or two to starts (ie after few rotations...ok maybe many rotations), there seems to be a drain/loss of power as ndutton describes above. Should I just get some new batteries? Like, it’s not cool to have to wait 30 or so minutes to give the batteries time to recharge and try turning the engine over again.

[Ando]

I’ve also come to the conclusion that the fuel supply issue has not miraculously resolved itself bc the motor is again not starting despite numerous attempts this evening.

[JOHN COOKSON]

If You're Using Bolts......

A couple other observations:
1. Exhaust fumes are emanating from the connection between the motor and the exhaust;

The threads may not be up to par so the bolts, even though tight, are not exerting enough pressure on the fitting. If tightening the bolts further does not stop the exhaust leak try switching to studs.
I never like to over tighten - it makes it hellish to get 'em loose the next time - especially in the exhaust area.

ex TRUE GRIT

[ndutton]

I can bring by a graphite based sealant rated to 750°F that may help. It can be used on the pipe threads and gasket.

[Ando]

The threads may not be up to par so the bolts, even though tight, are not exerting enough pressure on the fitting. If tightening the bolts further does not stop the exhaust leak try switching to studs.
I never like to over tighten - it makes it hellish to get 'em loose the next time - especially in the exhaust area.

ex TRUE GRIT

I too hate to over tighten for the very same reason. I am now questioning myself bc I cannot recall how I got this on in the first place without a 15mm wrench on board so I will bring the wrench from home and try to tighten them with the proper tool and see what happens from there.

[Ando]

I can bring by a graphite based sealant rated to 750°F that may help. It can be used on the pipe threads and gasket.

Thx, Neil. I may take you up on that after I try to tighten it with the proper tool...or should I take you up on it and then use the proper tool to be extra sure? It’s always nice to see you.

[Ando]

Btw, last night she started up for a bit with the idle mix turned an extra quarter turn clockwise and died and wouldn’t start up again. This morning I set the idle mixture back counter-clockwise and she started, stayed running for about a minute and died again. I’m not planning on starting her up again until I get some suggestions on how to re-work this thermostat housing so that it doesn’t leak water.

[ndutton]

Thx, Neil. I may take you up on that after I try to tighten it with the proper tool...or should I take you up on it and then use the proper tool to be extra sure?

Why not go the full Monty from the start? Make it as good as it can be. As for the thermostat, for the time being I'd remove it and close the bypass as a temporary measure until you get the engine running the way it should (you do have the bypass valve, right?) She'll be a little cold blooded but that can be dealt with later.

Right now I'd dial in the engine running off the auxiliary tank, then get after the on board fuel delivery problem.

[Ando]

Why not go the full Monty from the start? Make it as good as it can be. As for the thermostat, for the time being I'd remove it and close the bypass as a temporary measure until you get the engine running the way it should (you do have the bypass valve, right?) She'll be a little cold blooded but that can be dealt with later.

Right now I'd dial in the engine running off the auxiliary tank, then get after the on board fuel delivery problem.

Roger that. Let’s keep in touch to coordinate a time when you are available. I could even come by to see you if that’s more convenient for you.

As for the thermostat, I do have the bypass. I’ll close it, but what’s the purpose of removing the thermostat if the bypass is closed? And I open the thru hull valve though when running the engine, right?

[Ando]

what’s the purpose of removing the thermostat if the bypass is closed? And I open the thru hull valve though when running the engine, right?

Oh, you mean just figuratively remove the thermostat from the picture by closing the bypass, rather than physically/actually removing the thermostat

[JOHN COOKSON]

Btw, last night she started up for a bit with the idle mix turned an extra quarter turn clockwise and died and wouldn’t start up again. This morning I set the idle mixture back counter-clockwise and she started, stayed running for about a minute and died again. l

Sounds like you are running on one bowl full of fuel. Then the engine dies. If you have an electronic fuel pump try shorting across or bypassing the OPSS.

ex TRUE GRIT

[JOHN COOKSON]

Roger that.
As for the thermostat, I do have the bypass. I’ll close it, but what’s the purpose of removing the thermostat if the bypass is closed? thru hull valve

The thermostat by just being in place physically blocks some of the flow through the engine. With the thermostat removed the passage through the engine is wide open.

ex TRUE GRIT

[Ando]

The thermostat by just being in place physically blocks some of the flow through the engine. With the thermostat removed the passage through the engine is wide open.

ex TRUE GRIT

I see, but the bypass being closed prevents water going through that area anyway, right? The “bypass” to me means the valve between the water jacket and the thermostat...or is it something else?