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  #26   IP: 138.207.175.104
Old 12-21-2019, 08:07 PM
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Business took me to Berlin shortly after the fall of the Berlin Wall. I remember scores of two-cycle autos, limped across the old border and abandoned.

I don't remember a smell, because that required them to be running.

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  #27   IP: 107.131.11.88
Old 12-22-2019, 08:55 PM
AFisch AFisch is offline
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Ok, so went down to give the boat a much needed scrub...wanted to check on my work...opened engine hatch and a strong smell of gas...feeling around, it seems like gas is leaking out the air intake/flame arrestor.

When I rebuilt the carb, it recommended that you seat (gently) the adjustable main jet...then turn it out 2 full turns. I thought that was a bit much, so I did 1.5 turns.

I did notice that I don't need choke to start from cold, which can't be right...am I flooding the carb so that fuel is coming out the air intake?

Adam
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  #28   IP: 70.185.132.167
Old 12-23-2019, 02:45 AM
JOHN COOKSON JOHN COOKSON is online now
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The fuel flooding is being caused by the inlet needle valve not sealing correctly.

A hole in the float would cause this. Also the way I understand it is that the needle and the seat should both be replaced at the same time because different companies use different specifications for those parts.

Is the bottom of the fuel tank higher than the carburetor? If so it be set up for a siphon.
Is there a fuel shut off valve at the tank? Some have two shut off valves for an added measure of safety: one just after the tank and one just before the carburetor.

ex TRUE GRIT

Edit: Maybe just maybe there is a bit of crud between the seat and needle. Try cleaning up the mess and starting the engine. If there is junk in the needle valve you might flush it out. A somewhat longer range goal would be to make sure the carburetor is supplied with 100% uncontaminated gasoline.

Last edited by JOHN COOKSON; 12-23-2019 at 12:06 PM.
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  #29   IP: 24.152.132.140
Old 12-23-2019, 10:27 AM
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John, as usual, is exactly right but one thing he left out is the danger. A single spark from any source with gasoline vapor inside the boat can blow it to smithereens. Please proceed with extreme caution.
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  #30   IP: 97.93.70.7
Old 12-23-2019, 11:57 AM
Dave Neptune Dave Neptune is offline
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Adam, yikes. Two things to figure out on the carb and one regarding the tank position as per Al.

You mention the adj jet. I have had some poor experiences with these and I don't like them because they can leak. We will get to the adjusting procedure later once the leak is fixed. Is the leak coming from the adj jet?

RE the floats and the needle & seat. If it is leaking from the inside and not the adj jet removal will be necessary. The "bowl assembly" can leak in 2 ways. One way is a hole in the float from tweeking, this can be checked by shaking the float of feeling the fuel in it rolling around. The float can be drained and soldered shut again although a new float is first choice.
The second is the needle & seat (N/S). Take a good look at the needle, is it a soft tipped or brass? Then look into the seat at the bottom with a magnifying glass. The seat should look clean and free of nicks. The seat can be dressed if it is compromised and we'll cover that once we know what is causing the leak. Also the seat must be firmly "seated" to seal the threads usually with a fiber washer.

I have always suggested a pressure gage in front of the carb. However the one thing I do is mount a valve on the exit side of the gage for shutting the fuel off to let the engine run out of fuel. No leaks and it keeps the carb cleaner.

Your on the right track.
Dave Neptune
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  #31   IP: 98.189.79.99
Old 12-23-2019, 12:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Neptune View Post
Adam, yikes. Two things to figure out on the carb and one regarding the tank position as per Al.

You mention the adj jet. I have had some poor experiences with these and I don't like them because they can leak. We will get to the adjusting procedure later once the leak is fixed. Is the leak coming from the adj jet?

RE the floats and the needle & seat. If it is leaking from the inside and not the adj jet removal will be necessary. The "bowl assembly" can leak in 2 ways. One way is a hole in the float from tweeking, this can be checked by shaking the float of feeling the fuel in it rolling around. The float can be drained and soldered shut again although a new float is first choice.
The second is the needle & seat (N/S). Take a good look at the needle, is it a soft tipped or brass? Then look into the seat at the bottom with a magnifying glass. The seat should look clean and free of nicks. The seat can be dressed if it is compromised and we'll cover that once we know what is causing the leak. Also the seat must be firmly "seated" to seal the threads usually with a fiber washer.

I have always suggested a pressure gage in front of the carb. However the one thing I do is mount a valve on the exit side of the gage for shutting the fuel off to let the engine run out of fuel. No leaks and it keeps the carb cleaner.

Your on the right track.
Dave Neptune
Ok, going to take it off and pull apart again...I ended up not replacing the needle and seat because I didn't have a flat head screwdriver big enough to fit the seat properly without potential of damaging...good excuse to get more tools...I will replace the needle and seat right away and check the floats for leaks.

John Cookson, thank you so much!

N_Dutton...I have the fuel valve at the tank shut off just in case and both battery banks are turned off...I will be heading down this afternoon.

Thank you all!
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  #32   IP: 70.185.132.167
Old 12-23-2019, 04:18 PM
JOHN COOKSON JOHN COOKSON is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AFisch View Post
..I ended up not replacing the needle and seat because I didn't have a flat head screwdriver big enough to fit the seat properly without potential of damaging...good excuse to get more tools.
Here's my way.
1st get the proper tool.
Put the carb half over a piece of 2X4 or 4X4. Hold with one hand, get square over (stand up) and twist the tool with the other hand. This will avoid any sideways torque. You will probably be amazed how easy the seat comes loose.

Stick with it. You are getting closer and learning a lot.

ex TRUE GRIT
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  #33   IP: 98.189.79.99
Old 12-26-2019, 01:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JOHN COOKSON View Post
Here's my way.
1st get the proper tool.
Put the carb half over a piece of 2X4 or 4X4. Hold with one hand, get square over (stand up) and twist the tool with the other hand. This will avoid any sideways torque. You will probably be amazed how easy the seat comes loose.

Stick with it. You are getting closer and learning a lot.

ex TRUE GRIT
Thank John....I'll try that if it is still too sticky with the proper side flathead.

And yes, I have learned a ton about my engine through all this, non of this has been time wasted since I gained so much knowledge an confidence in my engine now.

And Just FYI everyone...went back down to check on it and there was no more fuel leaking out or gas smell. But with that said, I did have the valve at the tank shut off.

I'll be removing and replacing the needle and seat very soon.
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  #34   IP: 107.131.11.88
Old 01-15-2020, 11:54 PM
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Ok, new frustration...

After removing the carb again, I doweled out the seat under the float and ended up putting the new needle in that came with the rebuild kit. Reassembled, re-installed...and seems like the leaking of fuel out of the air intake has stopped...so accomplishment there.

Now however, I am having a few things that are not normal.

1. I am sure I need to do some adjustments of the main jet and the mixtures as I hear a very subtle firing when engine is running.

2. The engine seems to run fine, but when I shut it down, it sounds like something in the engine block does a couple more turns and then I hear what sounds like a tapping, but more like a dripping sound from within the engine. This happens for a few moments after I shut the engine off and then stops.

3. I did a few little adjustment to the main jet, but ended up setting back to 1.5 turns out...last few tries of running the engine, it'll now only run with the choke half pulled. This was not happened when I was first firing it up tonight.


So, I am getting it to run, no more fuel leak...but I am not happy with the way it is running or the strange sounds when I shut it off.

Anyone have any suggestions.

Adam
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  #35   IP: 98.189.79.99
Old 01-20-2020, 12:56 PM
AFisch AFisch is offline
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Ok, went and bough a new wrench set that fits better in the area where I have access to one of the bolts. Re-attached the carb, making sure there is no air leak and we are all good!...simple things make the biggest difference.

Engine still makes a weird noise after shut down, almost like the prop tries to do another turn or two...and then I hear a weird dripping noise from somewhere around the alternator area, but more inside the engine.

I am not sure if it did this before I rebuilt the carb at all or not, but does anyone have ideas on what that could be?

Thanks,
Adam
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  #36   IP: 72.234.255.23
Old 01-20-2020, 03:33 PM
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Can you record it and post it here in the form of a YouTube video?

Is what you hear raw water draining backwards?

Bill
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  #37   IP: 137.200.0.109
Old 01-21-2020, 07:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Administrator View Post
Can you record it and post it here in the form of a YouTube video?

Is what you hear raw water draining backwards?

Bill
That is usually not a good sign if that is what the sound is. Does the engine have a working anti-siphon valve of some kind?
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  #38   IP: 98.189.79.99
Old 01-21-2020, 12:41 PM
AFisch AFisch is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Administrator View Post
Can you record it and post it here in the form of a YouTube video?

Is what you hear raw water draining backwards?

Bill
Hey Bill, Next time I am down there I'll try to take a video/audio of it and post it up.

Thanks
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  #39   IP: 98.189.79.99
Old 01-21-2020, 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by joe_db View Post
That is usually not a good sign if that is what the sound is. Does the engine have a working anti-siphon valve of some kind?
Hey Joe_db...I hope that is not the case then. Not sure about the anti-siphon valve. What would I be looking for if it does?

I'll google it as well and check. I'll update when I get down there next.

Thanks,
Adam
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Old 01-21-2020, 01:11 PM
Dave Neptune Dave Neptune is offline
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Adam, the anti-syphon valve would be mounted in a "loop" above the waterline on the water line that feeds into the exhaust from the manifold. When the engine is running the water pressure holds the valve closed and the water goes out the exhaust. When the engine is shut down the valve opens and lets air into the line to "break" the syphon. This syphoning is what will fill the engine with water if it fails!!!

Some boats do not have the anti-syphon valve as they are using a different exhaust, even on the A-4's.

Dave Neptune
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  #41   IP: 98.189.79.99
Old 01-21-2020, 01:26 PM
AFisch AFisch is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Neptune View Post
Adam, the anti-syphon valve would be mounted in a "loop" above the waterline on the water line that feeds into the exhaust from the manifold. When the engine is running the water pressure holds the valve closed and the water goes out the exhaust. When the engine is shut down the valve opens and lets air into the line to "break" the syphon. This syphoning is what will fill the engine with water if it fails!!!

Some boats do not have the anti-syphon valve as they are using a different exhaust, even on the A-4's.

Dave Neptune
Ok...really good to know. I'll have a look when I am down there next. Although the noise I am hearing sounds like it is on the other side of the engine from where the exhaust is.

Adam
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Old 01-21-2020, 01:31 PM
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It should look something like this:
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