Water has gotten into crankcase and Oil

[RobH2]

We are thinking alike now. That's the first thing I was going to check today since we started pointing fingers at that loop. It would be crazy if my whole issue was caused by that little plastic part.

[JOHN COOKSON]

We are thinking alike now. That's the first thing I was going to check today since we started pointing fingers at that loop. It would be crazy if my whole issue was caused by that little plastic part.

Checking the anti siphon valve should be a routine maintenance item. Personally I never trust a plastic anything.

TRUE GRIT

[ndutton]

You - and anyone else for that matter - might consider a vented loop rather than an antisiphon valve. No moving parts, nothing to malfunction, nothing to maintain, nothing to check assuming it is properly installed in the first place.

[RobH2]

No water moving out of the bare manifold. Anti siphon was ok. Going to do the three oil changes. Should I run the engine between changes?

[RobH2]

ISSUE SOLVED!!

However, I don’t know how exactly. I know that’s an add thing to say.

To wrap up, here’s what I know:
1. I flushed the antifreeze out of my engine, checked the oil and ran it for about 15-minutes.
2. Engine started perfectly as it always does. Checked the oil, it was black, and I made a note to change it the following week.
3. While running engine for that initial 15-minutes I noticed a lot of steam coming off of my exhaust pipe just above the water injection point.
4. I changed the oil a week later, ran engine for about 5-minutes and checked the level. It was full of water. Seemingly, the act of just changing my oil caused a cascade of problems that led to massive amounts of water in the crankcase.

What I did:
1. Began posting on forum
2. Pulled exhaust pipe and found that it had a leak at one joint. Rebuilt exhaust pipe.
3. Assumed that the pipe leak reduced push of water out of boat and allowed for back flow into manifold and into engine.
4. Changed oil 3 times and still had a tremendous amount of water in the oil. Since the exhaust pipe was new and tight, and the injection fitting was sound and clear, I assumed the water was coming from elsewhere.
5. Pulled the water pump and after examining it I determined that there is no way it could contribute any significant amount of water into the block. Rebuilt its seals anyway, so at least I know it’s in great shape.
6. Pressure tested the water jacket. It held pressure for two days. Therefore, not internal cracks.
7. Pressure tested Manifold. It held 10lbs pressure for 30-minutes until I released the pressure.
8. Pulled the exhaust pipe off of the manifold, used garden hose to run water through the engine and ran it for 10-minutes. It was loud but no water came out of the manifold.
9. Pulled the plastic anti-siphon valve off of anti-siphon loop and blew through it from the screen end. I blew water through it from the screen end. I tested it from the thread end, and I could not blow into it but could suck air back. So, it was functioning.

What I don’t know:
Instead of a list I just have to say, I don’t know what solved the issue. Aside from the leak in the deteriorated exhaust pipe, I found no problems, issues or malfunctions. In all, I ran (wasted sort of) 11 gallons of oil through the engine as I continued to diagnose, test, change oil and start over.

I did a sea trial today and after one hour on the water I checked the oil and it is perfectly clear and shows no signs of any water.

I want to thank all of you very knowledgeable guys for the guidance and assistance. I wish I could point to something that was the culprit. As odd as it seems, I’m leaning to the plastic anti-siphon valve that I blew out. Every other thing I did resulted in watery oil after making the repair.

The last thing I did today before putting it all back together was blow out that plastic valve. Could it have been clogged or blocked before I blew on it, maybe. Did if detect in any way that it was in fact clogged, no. But having done everything else and still getting water in the oil, it’s the only thing I can point to. I wish I had blown it out first.

So, my advice, even though it might be wrong and or misguided is, if you get water in your oil, first blow out the anti-siphon valve or replace it. But we will never know if that’s sound advice. I have no idea.

[Wisakedjack]

RobH2 I am very happy to hear that you solved your issue as well. I would not be surprised that syphone valve could cause it. Especially given that it was at play in my case as well. May be the valve was stuck and your blowing through it fixed it. Hopefully it wont happen again, but as least you will be prepared. Happy sailing season!

[joe_db]

This is tempting me to switch from a siphon valve to a vent line.

[RobH2]

Joe, where can I see how a 'vent line' is configured? I might be inclined to do that also.

It was thinking that if I kept the valve, that I might plumb two of them in and at least if one clogged, the other might still serve the purpose. Or, I could just blow it out one a month or so. I'd rather have something that requires no maintenance so I don't forget to do it. So, maybe a 'vent line' would be better. I just don't know how to build that.

[joe_db]

Like so:
You adjust the valve for a little water flow from the vent line, you want about 90% of the water going through the exhaust. This is kind of like the pee hose on an outboard except the main reason the outboard has one is so you know it is pumping water.

[RobH2]

Interesting. Thanks.

[ndutton]

My experience is a small diameter vent hose provides enough restriction that a metering valve is not necessary. One less part. I forget the size of my vent hose, something like 5/16" I think.

The tricky part is finding a place to discharge the spittle that is open to air. Usually a galley sink is the answer. Joe, your drawing has me concerned. The arrangement of discharging the spittle to a below the waterline thru hull works when the engine is running but will not allow air into the loop freely when a siphon tries to start (vacuum dynamic). That's the reason I mentioned the end of the vent hose needing an open air connection. Mine connects to the galley sink drain at a point above the waterline.

edit
Disclaimer: maybe "thru-hull" on the drawing doesn't mean what I thought it did.

[joe_db]

My experience is a small diameter vent hose provides enough restriction that a metering valve is not necessary. One less part. I forget the size of my vent hose, something like 5/16" I think.

The tricky part is finding a place to discharge the spittle that is open to air. Usually a galley sink is the answer. Joe, your drawing has me concerned. The arrangement of discharging the spittle to a below the waterline thru hull works when the engine is running but will not allow air into the loop freely when a siphon tries to start (vacuum dynamic). That's the reason I mentioned the end of the vent hose needing an open air connection. Mine connects to the galley sink drain at a point above the waterline.

edit
Disclaimer: maybe "thru-hull" on the drawing doesn't mean what I thought it did.

I didn't mean to imply it would be underwater! That would be
If I hook that up it will be next to the bilge pump outlets.

[GregH]

RobH2 I am very happy to hear that you solved your issue as well. I would not be surprised that syphone valve could cause it. Especially given that it was at play in my case as well. May be the valve was stuck and your blowing through it fixed it. Hopefully it wont happen again, but as least you will be prepared. Happy sailing season!

For those plastic/nylon vented loops, one can buy replacement duckbills to be sure they are working.

Please remember though that these vented loops are near their upper limit for temps. ex Marelon-"TEMPERATURE RANGE... has an ... operating temperature range from -40º to +176º Fahrenheit". That upper limit would cause me endless worry when these engines are operating 160-180F. If you use plastic who knows its safe upper limit. And I don't know if that includes the rubber duckbill used in them.

Greg

[RobH2]

Like so:
You adjust the valve for a little water flow from the vent line, you want about 90% of the water going through the exhaust. This is kind of like the pee hose on an outboard except the main reason the outboard has one is so you know it is pumping water.

Could that "pee hose" join back into the exhaust back where it exits the boat do you think? I'd make sure to use metal parts and high temp hose. That prevents a new hole in the boat or having to always leave the galley drain thru-hull open.

You might even be able to pierce the exhaust hose just before it exits the boat, insert the "pee" hose and let the end of that pee hose extend all the way out till it hits air behind the boat. Then, seal that little hose hole with some industrial high-temp sealant and wrap it expertly. Better yet, get a shop to solder a brass tube into a "t-fitting" and attach the other half of the 'pee' hose there. See my drawing... Anyway, just thinking out loud. I'm an Industrial Designer. It's my job to come up with wacky ideas...lol...

[joe_db]

That seems unnecessarily complex to me.