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  #26   IP: 173.79.39.48
Old 10-08-2015, 07:47 AM
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edwardc edwardc is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JOHN COOKSON View Post
Light tapping on the studs along with PB Blaster (or your favorite goop) will help also. Don't peen the ends of the studs but if you do you can cut them off or grind the peen away.

TRUE GRIT
Don't tap straight down on the studs, tap them from the sides in all directions. I usually thread a nut on loosely and tap on that instead of the stud directly in order to preserve the threads.
This procedure will help the PBBlaster (or whatever penetrant you're using) to work its way in.
Once you have the head partway up, you can use wooden wedges in from the side into the gap between the head and the block to pry it up without damaging the surfaces. You have to keep the head fairly level as you do this or it will bind on the studs.
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  #27   IP: 73.163.134.203
Old 11-11-2015, 09:25 PM
Sailrite Sailrite is offline
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Engine is out! Now I just have to get it apart.
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  #28   IP: 216.115.121.240
Old 11-12-2015, 12:41 PM
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I agree with Hanley that the $180 is worth the cost. However, there are lots of us in the Chesapeake area that never mind helping. Ajax is on the West River, there are a few on the Eastern Shore and I am an hour-ish south of Annapolis. Might be a fun Saturday project if we are not too busy with our own boats.

Thanks I haven't pulled the boat out yet. I will in the next week or so.

I love fixing old stuff. I used to have International Harvester Scouts. Hence the name of my boat "Scout". I used the decal from the truck for the lettering.
I also fixed up old Lambretta scooters and early model honda cb motorcycles.

Talking to people that know what they are doing is always a great help.

Thanks again, and i may take you up on that and if not that at least some advice.

Oooooh, Honda cb. Waaay back when, I had a 350 sl that we kluged motocross bars and knobby tires on and thrashed the woods with. We called it an 350 SOB. A very dependable bike. The cb 360 not so.

Welcome,

Russ
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  #29   IP: 73.163.134.203
Old 11-12-2015, 08:07 PM
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So the engine is out. I tried to remove the head. I tried the wooden shims, PB blaster, heat , tapping with a hammer, still not budging. I'm going to try the welding the nut on the stud next. Unless someone has some other tricks.

Thanks
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  #30   IP: 73.163.134.203
Old 11-12-2015, 08:11 PM
Sailrite Sailrite is offline
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Originally Posted by lat 64 View Post
Oooooh, Honda cb. Waaay back when, I had a 350 sl that we kluged motocross bars and knobby tires on and thrashed the woods with. We called it an 350 SOB. A very dependable bike. The cb 360 not so.

Welcome,

Russ
Nice. I have motocross handle bars on one of my cb750s, no knobby tires. Great bikes.
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  #31   IP: 98.171.162.244
Old 11-13-2015, 01:47 AM
JOHN COOKSON JOHN COOKSON is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sailrite View Post
So the engine is out. I tried to remove the head. I tried the wooden shims, PB blaster, heat , tapping with a hammer, still not budging. I'm going to try the welding the nut on the stud next. Unless someone has some other tricks.
Thanks
If you can still turn the engine with the engine with the starter put the plugs back in and see if you can get the compression to break the head loose.

TRUE GRIT
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  #32   IP: 73.163.134.203
Old 11-13-2015, 09:28 AM
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The head lifts up about an 1/8 to a 1/4 inch. Then stops. I can't get it past the studs.
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  #33   IP: 73.163.134.203
Old 11-15-2015, 08:26 PM
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Unhappy

I got the head off. I had to cut one of the bolts off. I cut it off between the head and the block. It was rusted into the head. The others I removed with the welding a nut on the stud trick.
On to the next problem
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  #34   IP: 73.163.134.203
Old 11-23-2015, 07:36 PM
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Just some pictures to remember the fun times of removing my A-4.

I do have a question. I'm cleaning up the engine compartment. I'm getting new vent hoses. the old hoses were very close together in the bottom of the engine compartment. Should I put them back in that position or is there a better placement? I figure the exaust hose should be as low as it can be.
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  #35   IP: 107.0.6.242
Old 11-25-2015, 05:13 PM
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I see you have 2 hoses showing. Are they both extraction or is one an intake? I have only one, mounted as low as possible near the carburetor. I also have louvered vents in the cockpit to introduce fresh air.
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  #36   IP: 73.163.134.203
Old 11-27-2015, 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by hanleyclifford View Post
I see you have 2 hoses showing. Are they both extraction or is one an intake? I have only one, mounted as low as possible near the carburetor. I also have louvered vents in the cockpit to introduce fresh air.
One is an intake one is extraction. They were placed very close. I was wondering if the extraction hose was just sucking from the intake.
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  #37   IP: 107.0.6.150
Old 11-27-2015, 11:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sailrite View Post
One is an intake one is extraction. They were placed very close. I was wondering if the extraction hose was just sucking from the intake.
That would be a good bet. My experience is that sailboats have no trouble getting air in due to the foiling effect of air running around the dog house and spilling into the companionway. Best to focus on extraction, the lower the better.
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  #38   IP: 73.213.99.85
Old 09-28-2016, 09:17 PM
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So I've finally have my boat ready to launch but with out my Atomic 4 in it. (I have a outboard on now). Im still trying to find a machine shop in the Baltimore Annapolis area. One place told me not to take it anywhere but Moyer Marine. I really don't want to spend $6000.00 for a rebuilt engine if I can freshen mine up. any suggestions?

History of engine
Spent most of its life in lake Erie
Now lives in Annapolis.
Four summers ago it over heated , the impeller broke. It sat for a couple of months but it always turned over. I could never get it started. I finally took it out last fall.

Thanks
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  #39   IP: 50.163.158.204
Old 09-28-2016, 11:55 PM
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My guess is that you could drive the engine to MMI and get as assessment as to what needs to be done and what you can do yourself.

If I still lived in Annapolis, that is exactly what I would do with my disassembled engine. (and I have rebuilt many engines)
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  #40   IP: 132.147.29.249
Old 09-29-2016, 08:12 AM
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http://vosbury-marine.com/

They are - or were - the only local place I would trust with an Atomic 4. They do good work, but they are not a bargain basement operation.
http://www.moyermarine.com/new_bare_block_assembly.htm
This will cost you $2400 and you can do the work from there. my luck with random automotive engine shops was mixed at best. One of them specifically said no more A4 work!
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  #41   IP: 70.186.203.99
Old 09-29-2016, 09:16 AM
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If you can't find anyone locally and don't mind a few hours of driving, Apples Machine in Newport News, VA has a lot of experience with A-4's.

http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9030
http://www.applesmachineshop.com/
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  #42   IP: 73.213.99.85
Old 09-29-2016, 11:16 AM
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$575.00 sounds much better then $2400.00 but the drive is a little far. Although it might be worth it.
Has anyone gone to Moyer and had them tell you what needs to be done?

Thanks
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  #43   IP: 137.200.32.22
Old 09-29-2016, 11:47 AM
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Some Google-Fu for you:
http://www.jbsautomachine.com/
http://www.ellisonsmachineshop.com/services.html
http://www.mdautomarine.com/Marine_E...ebuilding.html

I know NOTHING about any of them except they came up on the following search:
antique engine machine shop Annapolis marine
IMHO shops that deal with antique marine engines are far more likely to have a clue about fixing an A4 than a shop that only does cars. YMMV and IMHO.
BTW - did you get the Moyer rebuild manual? That would be money very well spent for this project.

Also:
http://smd.craigslist.org/bpo/5787637237.html

Last edited by joe_db; 09-29-2016 at 11:49 AM.
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  #44   IP: 73.213.99.85
Old 09-29-2016, 04:06 PM
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Ellison is the shop that told me to go to Moyer.

I'll check the others.
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