Bowen Island Paint Job

[Marty Levenson]

cleaned up ok

The rust on the cam shaft and rod ends turned out to be basically rusty liquid. I wiped it off, and can't feel any imperfections on the shiny metal. Turned the flywheel and looked at each surfce of each cam closely. A spot or two is discolored slightly, but I can't feel any pitting or roughness anywhere. Should I do more?

Thanks,
Marty

[Marty Levenson]

exhaust maifold question

Can anyone tell me what this opening is? I'd like to take it off and put in a brass hex head, but can't unscrew the thing. I'll try heat tomorrow.

[jpian0923]

Scavenge tube port for late model carbs. If it aint broke...

Picture courtesy of seapadrik in the thread below.

http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5467&highlight=scavenge+tube

[Marty Levenson]

Nice looking engine....

...and thanks for the info. What year is that A4?

Your motor mounts have got me thinking about how I'm going to reinstall. Our old A4 on our Tartan 27 just uses nuts and bolts though a wood block. I'd like to go to an adjustable mount in case there is any height variation to address.

Everything's stripped: hoping to actually start painting this weekend.

-Marty

[sastanley]

Looking good Marty...keep plugging away at it.

BTW - Moyer sells those motor mounts I think. I am sure they are also available from other sources. They are real nice when you are aligning the prop shaft/coupling assembly during installation.

[Marty Levenson]

installing thoughts

Thanks for the encouragement, Sastanley. I am having fun! Amazing how you have to keep looking over the horizon at the next stages of the project to know what to do and what you need.

Thinking ahead to the install, I talked to a local A4 guy (who sells engine mounts). Learned two things:

1. He says that adding engine mounts when the the stringers are set up for through bolts and/or lag bolts creates more problems than it solves because of the added height. He suggests shimming it into place and then bolting it.

2. He also said that the boat needs to be in the water, not on the hard, when the engine is shimmed and attached to the shaft. He says that in older boats there is flex in the hull that gets distorted on a stand. I thought that made a lot of sense.

I'd really like to hear thought and experienced opinions about the above!

Thanks,
Marty

[jpian0923]

I considered the same thing but overruled myself. The stringers and hanger bolts on my boat have been working successfully since 1967!.

Adding the extra work for yourself is your choice (you would have to cut the stringers down a few inches or so).

The benefit in my case didn't seem worth it. I mean, if it took a "thin dime" to shim vertically and about that to align it horizontally I'd say I'm ahead of the game at 20 cents versus the $150ish to get 4 good quality mounts.

Alignment is not that difficult with stringers, they did most of the work for you at the factory when the boat was built. Maybe a little settling and compression from the engine weight has caused some sag. It can't be that much though. Just my opinion.

[sastanley]

I agree with Jim. The added height of the engine sitting on top of the mounts would create more work for sure.

Re: your #2 - the A4 guy is correct, however, they don't flex that much. I did mine on the hard, and re-checked it in the water and it hadn't moved..I'll admit the C-30's hull is, shall we say...beefy... , but your A4 guy is correct there is certainly a possibility...the boat shifts from sitting on jackstands and the hull's weight resting on the keel, to the hull floating, and now holding the weight of the keel thru the bilge structure and keel bolts. (Neil explained that to me during my prop shaft saga.) I would align it on the hard, plop her in and re-check her after a few days of floating and make any adjustments that are necessary.

It is a really long thread, but over in the "drive train/propellers" section, I have a thread titled "Indigo" that started with me buying a new prop and ended up with me fixing a hole in the shaft tube and replacing everything behind the tailshaft! If you wanted to skip all the other stuff, the re-assembly part is near the end of the thread..you can probably skip to about post #300.

[Marty Levenson]

install in two stages....

Thanks Shawn,

Do everything on the hard except bolt her down and attach the shaft sounds like a plan. There isn't anywhere in the water near the lift for us to hang out and fiddle around with wiring and pipe fittings for long, so I am wanting to do that part slowly and carefully on the hard. We are planning on using our inflatable (with a 2hp Honda) lashed to the rail to motor over...might just motor back to our dock to finish the install.

-Marty

[Marty Levenson]

motor mounts

Thank Jim and Shawn,

Sounds like I'm sticking with the original way of mounting...no new mounts.

-Marty

[Marty Levenson]

Paint conflict

All the pros I've talked to say to prime before painting. I have a Rustoleum primer and Rustoleum high heat paint. (both light gray) The high heat paint says "do not prime".

Advice? Thought of just trying it on something like the alt arm to make sure they are compatible, but maybe the problem is over a longer period of time? Or when it gets hot?

-Marty

[sastanley]

I did Rustoleum primer (rusty brown-ish/red color) and then painted. I am currently using Rustoleum hammered copper (not a high heat paint), but I think the primer was. I think the primer will stick to the bare metal better. Make sure you wipe the bare metal before painting, with something like acetone to remove all oil/fingerprints, etc.. so the paint will stick & making sure there are no other residues. If you go check out my album, I think it has some 'in progress' painting pictures.

[Marty Levenson]

Paint

Wondering if there is a more durable option than spray bombs. Is there a 2 part epoxy for engines?

[sastanley]

Marty, I dunno...but I would think a 2 part epoxy that can endure summer sunshine with only passive breeze for cooling may be able to handle 175F of a motor.

edit - FYI - My first choice for engine paint was a Duplicolor 'touch up' paint that I sprayed on top of the Rustoleum primer. That worked OK, but it was not very durable.

[Marty Levenson]

Paint thoughts again

Still wondering what the best way to go is. After all this work stripping, cleaning, masking...etc etc..its all for naught if the paint doesn't last. I hope never to see the bottom of the oil pan again, and I want to know its protected.

Today I contacted the major Vancouver marine mechanic service (Stem to Stern), who checked with their wholesaler's paint guy (Western Marine....not West). Came back with the assertion that degreasing, two coats of yellow zinc phosphate primer (95% zinc) and then two coats of acrylic lacquer engine paint was the best way to go.

Anyone have any experience with that type of primer on an engine?

Any info on how long the Moyer Marine paint lasts? (not that I can get that in Canada)

Anyone painted their engine and have it rust free/no peeling 15 years later? Please let me know what you used!

Thank you,
Marty