Oil filter and sealed cooling systems

[Ram41662]

What's you take on adding an oil filter system and, for lack of a better term, a sealed engine cooling system?

I've looked at a couple of kits for these options. I do like the oil filter, but I'm not impressed with the "FWC" options I've seen so far. A simple shell and tube heat exchanger is the easy way to allow you to use a glycol coolant in the engine while pulling cool water from outside to carry off the heat, but why such a small unit with an equally small electric pump? Does the A4 run that cool? And at over $700, it seems a bit pricey.

[joe_db]

I have an oil filter and really like it. The oil looks about brand new when I change it
The FWC - that is a bit of a tricky subject. The parts are NOT cheap even used. I put together a system bit by bit and I can tell you no one is making a huge profit on these things.
In the end I decided the electrical FWC is not for me. IMHO it does not have enough reserve cooling capacity for my application - I can run pretty much full throttle all day - and it added a lot of complication. I know other people have had good luck with it, so YMMV.
If you want to DIY a system with more capacity than the standard, you can go on Ebay and find a big heat exchanger from a big V8 and get the mechanical pump from Moyer or someplace.
( I have a complete system with HX, overflow tank, Indigo thermostat, and 2 electrical pumps for $500 + shipping if anyone wants it)

[Oldlaxer1]

Ram, from the pictures you posted on another thread it appears that maybe you already have the moyer oil change kit.

http://www.moyermarine.com/cgi-bin/shopper.cgi?preadd=action&key=KTAS_05_90

That makes changing oil really easy and perhaps the oil filter isn't a necessity if space is at a premium (especially since you are considering FWC).
Just a thought.

[Ram41662]

Thanks John, I didn't even notice that. I've been so concerned by the ice and crude to really look at the engine itself.

[Ram41662]

Joe, I might just take you up on the offer. I already buy a variety of heat exchangers for a series of devices I build, so my cost is well below retail for that portion. But the appeal of a turnkey set up kind of sound good to me.

[romantic comedy]

FWC is the best thing you can do for the engine.

I have a mechanical pump. The heat exchanger that I use is from a v-8 boat engine, so I have plenty reserve cooling capacity.

Some guy, with clearance problems, use an electric pump.

I carry 2 spare pumps. One for the coolant and one for sea water. They both use the same impeller.

[joe_db]

Joe, I might just take you up on the offer. I already buy a variety of heat exchangers for a series of devices I build, so my cost is well below retail for that portion. But the appeal of a turnkey set up kind of sound good to me.

Let me know. Things to remember:
1. Clean the engine cooling passages. Clean them again. Then clean them. Otherwise crap will get caught in the heat exchanger and you'll be cleaning that. Indigo suggests making a coolant filter, which is a lot easier to clean than the block or the HX.
2. The electrical pumps need to be mounted at a low point. They do not self prime.
3. Bleeding air is a huge pain before you learn the tricks. Poor flow and overheating are very likely trapped air. Being able to run the electrical pumps without the engine on is a huge help.

[ndutton]

Joe is absolutely correct on all points and careful design and layout can help alleviate air trap problems. However, the N27 has ample room for a PTO pulley at the flywheel to drive an additional pump. I expect all of us who have electric coolant pumps would prefer a positive displacement impeller pump instead if we could fit one.

[sastanley]

Neil is correct, however, I am happy to report I've had trouble free operation with my Johnson electric pump on the antifreeze side thus far.

When I was switching over to FWC, I ran a small metal basket style filter just between the manifold exit and the HX intake, and for the first several hours just ran straight water, or some vinegar mix, expecting a few flushes. (I did not start from scratch with a freshly assembled engine which you seem to be leaning toward more and more. )

I would also expect that after you do everything Joe says and finally fire it up, you'll still get some random metal flakes and stuff either in the filter, or more often they stick at the 'hard' spots, where a fitting comes in/out of the engine..I think replacing all those with smooth cast fittings help a bit with improved coolant flow too.

[joe_db]

Once I got the air and crap out of my system it ran fine, it never quit or got re-airlocked. I just did not realize how hot the boat would get at FWC running temps. My engine room has no insulation or isolation from the rest of the boat. I never would do a one-pump install though. Besides for fault tolerance, two pumps was 10 degrees cooler than one at full throttle.

[marthur]

Back to the oil filter question: I installed the Indigo oil filter kit and was very favorably impressed with the change in my oil. There was a night and day difference in the color and clarity of the oil after 50 hours. I would make this mod again.

I also found the oil pressure regulator in the Indigo oil change kit did a better job than the original. The oil pressure was much steadier after the install and it was easy to adjust.

[Ram41662]

Thanks to all of you again for the input. Neil is more than correct about the room. I've finally gotten the interior thawed out and removed the stuff in the way to allow me to slide in on the starboard side (can't do that on the port side due to panel being in the way) to see the engine. There is loads of room back there.

In a happy plus note, even though I cant get to the build number yet I did discover Moyer Marine is familiar with this engine, see below:

[alcodiesel]

So does that mean it's a rebuild?

[Ram41662]

alcodiesel, I believe it does. I've been corresponding with MMI to see when and what was done. The nuts on the engine mounts are still bright and shiny, but I also know the boat hasn't been in the water for anywhere from 5 to 10 years. Between that little tidbit and the fact I have some work I need to do up in the aft that I can only get to by removing the engine, she's coming out. At that time I can see if there are additional MMI casting numbers which would indicate a more advanced full rebuild.