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Removal of the cylinder head studs
My question concerns the removal of the cylinder head studs in my late model A-4 in a Catalina 27, with the engine installed.
There isn't much room in the engine compartment, as it tapers to stern, but I was able to remove the intake manifold with the studs in place. Unfortunately, during the process I was not able to slide the manifold off of the studs because the rearmost end of the manifold was trapped between the narrowed bulkhead and the stud end which still extended into the manifold although a few inches of the studs were exposed.
I was able to solve this problem by pulling the rearmost two studs with vice grips, thus permitting the manifold to swing downward on the remaining stud toward the front of the engine where the compartment was much wider and allowed enough clearance to pull the manifold outward and free it from the stud.
I expect to reinstall the manifold the same way when I finish working on the valves; but, that little experience made me wonder what would have happened if I had broken one of the studs. The answer, of course, is that I would have had to remove the engine to permit access to block, and maybe haul it to a machine shop; something I would really rather not do if I can avoid it.
The next phase of the project now requires that I remove the cylinder head, and I have the same worry- what if I break a stud. I have already removed all 17 of the head nuts and, of course, the head is crusty and looks like it was welded onto the block, but I would rather leave the head studs in place if that is at all possible.
I have your overhaul manual, but I didn't see anything that offers any encouragement for removing the head in this manner. Accordingly, can you advise if it is at all possible to remove the head without pulling the studs; and, if I do break one or two of those 17 studs if I decide to pull them, can I then slap the head back on the remaining studs, torque the nuts down to 30FP and reasonably expect my A-4 to operate? Also, would you advise replacing all of those old crusty nuts with new ones? Thank you.
There isn't much room in the engine compartment, as it tapers to stern, but I was able to remove the intake manifold with the studs in place. Unfortunately, during the process I was not able to slide the manifold off of the studs because the rearmost end of the manifold was trapped between the narrowed bulkhead and the stud end which still extended into the manifold although a few inches of the studs were exposed.
I was able to solve this problem by pulling the rearmost two studs with vice grips, thus permitting the manifold to swing downward on the remaining stud toward the front of the engine where the compartment was much wider and allowed enough clearance to pull the manifold outward and free it from the stud.
I expect to reinstall the manifold the same way when I finish working on the valves; but, that little experience made me wonder what would have happened if I had broken one of the studs. The answer, of course, is that I would have had to remove the engine to permit access to block, and maybe haul it to a machine shop; something I would really rather not do if I can avoid it.
The next phase of the project now requires that I remove the cylinder head, and I have the same worry- what if I break a stud. I have already removed all 17 of the head nuts and, of course, the head is crusty and looks like it was welded onto the block, but I would rather leave the head studs in place if that is at all possible.
I have your overhaul manual, but I didn't see anything that offers any encouragement for removing the head in this manner. Accordingly, can you advise if it is at all possible to remove the head without pulling the studs; and, if I do break one or two of those 17 studs if I decide to pull them, can I then slap the head back on the remaining studs, torque the nuts down to 30FP and reasonably expect my A-4 to operate? Also, would you advise replacing all of those old crusty nuts with new ones? Thank you.
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