#1
IP: 70.22.226.86
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MMI 502 flange pump
We currently have the Oberdorfer pump on our late model raw water cooled A4. The PO rebuilt it a few years ago and I have done nothing to it in the meantime. We've had no trouble with it. Nevertheless, it bears at least inspection during the winter and since we have no spare water pump I'm contemplating buying and installing the MMI 502 flange pump and rebuilding the Oberdorfer for use as a spare.
I'm looking for comments as to installation and performance of the MMI 502 from anyone who uses it. Thanks! Mark |
#2
IP: 68.104.86.117
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Mark-
It's a great pump. Hands down better than the Oberdorfer. There is no more Grease Cup to mess with and that alone makes it better. The back plate with thumb screws make checking the impeller a breeze. It's very easy to install. Don't forget the Lower Bolt too. It's worth every penny and it's Shawn's favorite part!
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-Jerry 'Lone Ranger' 1978 RANGER 30 |
#3
IP: 142.68.252.95
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Two flawless seasons here on a pair of those handy new MMI pumps.
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1974 C&C 27 |
#4
IP: 216.115.121.253
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I like mine
Breeze to install Russ
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Whiskeyjack a '68 Columbia 36 rebuilt A-4 with 2:1 "Since when is napping doing nothing?" |
#5
IP: 173.166.26.241
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2000 hrs +, quick look at the impeller and put it back together. This is not just a better pump, the MM502 is a better TECHNOLOGY by orders of magnitude. Just do it. Regards, Hanley
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#6
IP: 70.22.226.86
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Quote:
How do you use two? Mark |
#7
IP: 193.253.220.149
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two pumps
I think I can answer that one: one for saltwater, one for fresh water in an FWC system.
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Kelly 1964 Cheoy Lee Bermuda Ketch, Wind and Atomic powered Last edited by Kelly; 10-05-2010 at 03:34 AM. Reason: spelling |
#8
IP: 142.68.249.190
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That's correct. The engine had been seawater cooled (freshwater for years prior). The original very old water pump was leaking so I swapped it out for a new MMI pump instead of fussing with a rebuild attempt in the middle of a major refit. At the same time I installed freshwater cooling and so added the second pump.
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1974 C&C 27 |
#9
IP: 206.125.176.3
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Mmmm..lower bolt!
Quote:
-right back at ya!
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-Shawn "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109 "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!) Last edited by sastanley; 10-05-2010 at 08:40 AM. |
#10
IP: 216.115.121.253
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All right you guys,
I've been thinkin' "what is all this ballyhoo about a recessed bolt"? I just don't get it. On the bench in the shop, I used a socket and extension to get to it. Down at the boat, I used one of those new box-end wrenches with a ratcheting style insert to change the pump in less than a half hour. And that was because I forgot the socket at home. Moyer's makes so many great and well-built upgrades to the A-4 design issues; I wish I had a bigger piggy bank so I could buy more. But, I just haven't found this bolt to vex me like, say, the idle screw on the carb. Now that's doozy of a hard-to-reach, pain-in-the-rear item. I had to break my hand in two places just so it would fit in there! Definitely that long carb idle screw is next on my list. Is this pump bolt more of an issue on tight engine installations? R.
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Whiskeyjack a '68 Columbia 36 rebuilt A-4 with 2:1 "Since when is napping doing nothing?" |
#11
IP: 173.10.186.221
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it just depends on your access. I have good access from the top and from the starboard side, but have a tough time getting a hand below and behind the pump to install that bottom bolt. Taking it out is easy, putting it back is hard. With the exension bolt, I can get my right hand below the water pump from starboard, to get a finger over the hole, while I use my left hand from above to fit the bolt into the hole. The extension makes it way easier - worth every penny.
From the top, I have no trouble getting a screwdriver on the idle speed screw. Just depends on the boat. Jesse Delanoy 1977 Catalina 30 Off The Grid Baltimore/Pasadena MD |
#12
IP: 68.104.86.117
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Quote:
I'll give you my perspective (FWIW)... I think it's most definitely an access/space/reachability thing. On my boat, that part of the engine has the tightest access. I can only reach in there with one arm at a time. (without cutting a bigger hole) So, with only one hand, it's much easier to get that long bolt started on the hole, then put a wrench on it and tighten down. Getting the pump on "from scratch" requires laying over the engine and holding the pump in place while feeling my way to that top bolt hole. Of course, if I had an extra arm/hand, all of this would be much easier. As for the idle screw, that's one of the easier parts to reach for me. So, as always with this stuff... YMMV. EDIT- Jesse beat me to the punch or I wouldn't have repeated what he already posted.
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-Jerry 'Lone Ranger' 1978 RANGER 30 Last edited by roadnsky; 10-05-2010 at 01:36 PM. |
#13
IP: 173.166.26.241
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I have easy access to the water pump and, like Russ, I can easily use a socket and extension. But every time I saw that picture of Jerry's I got envious and I had to have one. Wonder if we could use one for the other bolt?
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#14
IP: 63.239.65.11
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I always struggled with the little stainless screws for the back cover of the 202 pump until the light bulb went off the last time I checked the impeller: I just got a 2" screw the same size as the plate's screws, put the long screw through the top hole of the plate and screwed in a few threads to hang the plate from the long screw. After that, it was easy to get the rest of them in and then replace the long screw with the correct one.
I still plan on replacing that old pump with the new one during the winter, though. A question about that old pump: what is the purpose of the screw on top between the inlet and outlet? Last edited by Baltimore Sailor; 10-05-2010 at 03:05 PM. |
#15
IP: 206.125.176.3
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Quote:
I have also found the mech. fuel pump bolts to be a pain even though I have decent access to that too..in that case you can't physically get a socket/extension around the pump body. It is almost possible with a universal in the mix, as long as you goop the bolt to the socket so it doesn't drop in the bilge & you can get the threads lined up without stripping/cross threading. Hanley has already been kind enough in another thread to give me the specs for allen head replacements, which I can pick up locally. Quote:
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-Shawn "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109 "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!) Last edited by sastanley; 10-05-2010 at 03:21 PM. |
#16
IP: 216.115.121.253
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Hatching an idea
That seems to sum itup.
I admit I did cut access to the starboard side of the engine with a little door from the quarter berth. Can't do much without that little door open. And,... I'm considering one of those big Hell's-Angels,-Bering-sea,-crab-boat, lazarette hatches right over the engine in the cockpit footwell. I could reach down, open the hatch, fix some engine stuff, close the hatch and drink beer, easy livin' What was this thread about anyway? Russ
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Whiskeyjack a '68 Columbia 36 rebuilt A-4 with 2:1 "Since when is napping doing nothing?" |
#17
IP: 24.152.131.220
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Quote:
The last generation of the Westsail 32 deck had a fully removable cockpit sole. There was a gutter type flange around the perimeter that included a provision for the cockpit drains in the corners and a gasketed lid that overlapped that. It provided great engine access. On my 80's project the engine installation was one of the last things I did, craned a Perkins 4 cyl. diesel straight down onto its mounts through that hatch. Note that the Westsail is a tiller steered boat.
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Neil 1977 Catalina 30 San Pedro, California prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22 Had my hands in a few others |
#18
IP: 216.115.121.253
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Westsails are great boats. I sailed on two of them, they go like a freight train when everyone else is bashing.
I think they have their own gravity too. Wm. Crealock designed my boat too, but I think he put more love in the Westsail 32
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Whiskeyjack a '68 Columbia 36 rebuilt A-4 with 2:1 "Since when is napping doing nothing?" |
#19
IP: 65.91.31.66
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Quote:
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#20
IP: 38.102.16.169
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Quote:
You do indeed have the first one, as the product was your idea. Bill |
#21
IP: 206.125.176.3
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Sounds like we'll soon have a "tender's screw mark II"
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-Shawn "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109 "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!) |
#22
IP: 142.68.242.137
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Yup. Trust me. I got the original out by standing on my head and padding my left shoulder with a cushion against the fuel tank, and my right knee with a fender against an after bulkhead, and trying to ignore the blood rushing to my head, while doing it by feel.
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1974 C&C 27 |
#23
IP: 74.11.114.249
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Darn..
I knew I forgot to order something! Oh well, I'll include this in the next order....
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1979 C&C36 'Dionysus' |
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