Is anyone using -4AN connectors in the fuel system?

[joe_db]

There are two INPUT ports and two OUTPUT ports. Make SURE you are using the correct ones and plugging the unused ones.
The fuel is supposed to be forced through the canister filter, it is not a gravity operation!

[ronstory]

While the filter in this diagram is upside down from our typical marine fuel/water separator installation... the flow is the same:

[ArtJ]

I like the flow in your diagram I wish that was the path

Unfortunately, the flow in the Sierra SIE-18-7945 holder/cover allows direct flow

from inlet to outlet while only allowing incidental flow to enter the filter via tube

In fact, you can see directly thru the cover/holder from input to output

If then, one puts a finger over the tube to the filter and blows on the input fitting can feel 100% of the flow go directly to output fitting


THERE ARE 4 PORTS ON THE FILTER HOLDER.

IF ONE OF THE DIAGONAL PORTS IS USED AS OUTPUT THEN THE FUEL IS FORCED TO COME FROM THE FILTER
JUST NOTICED 2 OPPOSED PORTS ARE MARKED WITH OUTGOING ARROWS WHILE THE OTHER 2 ARE MARKED WITH INPUT ARROWS.
WISH THE HOLDER CAM WITH DIRECTIONS HAS 2 PLUGS INCLUDED TO BLOCK UNUSED PORTS


Best Art

[ArtJ]

Thanks again


Now I understand the usage o the ports


Best Art

[ndutton]

Just to be certain Art, do we understand that you realized your straight through sightings were from output to output and input to input?

[ArtJ]

Absolutely Neil


Thanks to alll and embarrassed that I did not see the arrows

Different connections than 2 port version

Hope this saves someone else the confusion



Art

[ndutton]

No worries Art. On this forum we ask, we teach, we learn. Your experience will help others in the future.

[joe_db]

I have a vacuum gauge on the spare output port, so they do come in handy

[ArtJ]

What size adapter do I need thread to hose barb with 5/16 hose or 1/4 hose?


I am always confused on sizing pipe and hose.

Does anyone know the correct mfg part numbers for connecting 5/16 or 1/4 inch
fuel hose directly to the Sierra fuel water separator?

The male block off plugs that came with it are called "3/8"

Thanks

Art

[joe_db]

Originally Posted by ArtJ

What size adapter do I need thread to hose barb with 5/16 hose or 1/4 hose?


I am always confused on sizing pipe and hose.

Does anyone know the correct mfg part numbers for connecting 5/16 or 1/4 inch
fuel hose directly to the Sierra fuel water separator?

The male block off plugs that came with it are called "3/8"

Thanks

Art

3/8 male pipe thread on one end, 5/16 or 1/4 hose barb on the other end.

[ArtJ]

Doesn't the 3/8 refer to the ID size not the actual measured OD of threads?

[joe_db]

NPT is a world of its own and probably no part of it measures 3/8"
It is still easy - a 3/8" NPT port accepts a male 3/8" NPT fitting.

[Dave Neptune]

AN fittings are for quick in and out exchanges of an engine for racing and looks for show applications. These fittings are able to disconnect and reconnect quickly, used them in the "pits" many times. I also have used them for show applications as they can be a thing of beauty, especially in hot-boats or hotrods.

Our engines are supposed to be for the "long run" not a short run! Most of our engines run in saltwater and the fittings are just anodized aluminum over a hose covered with stainless braid for "LOOKS". I have worked on engines set up with AN fittings for the long run and was very disappointed when maintenance was needed after a long run. Three of the fittings broke off when trying to get loose on one application and a few on others. The aluminum (lightly anodized for looks) had become corroded from the salts and were "seized". This could be catastrophic offshore whereas a standard hose barb still functions for emergency repairs.

If you want the looks, go-4-it, if you want reliability away from the dock don't.

Dave Neptune

[ArtJ]

I have browsed McMaster,Amazon Grainger and West Marine

Grainger etc want $20 each for 5/16 or 1/4 barb to 3/8 NPT in Stainless

I saw somewhere a recommendation for Stainless on the Sierra separator
bracket perhaps due to Bracket being aluminum?

West Marine has the above in brass for $6. Is Brass ok to use with Sierra?

I noticed the plugs that come with it are brass or bronze


Art

[joe_db]

Originally Posted by ArtJ

I have browsed McMaster,Amazon Grainger and West Marine

Grainger etc want $20 each for 5/16 or 1/4 barb to 3/8 NPT in Stainless

I saw somewhere a recommendation for Stainless on the Sierra separator
bracket perhaps due to Bracket being aluminum?

West Marine has the above in brass for $6. Is Brass ok to use with Sierra?

I noticed the plugs that come with it are brass or bronze


Art

I use the West Marine or hardware store brass fittings.

[joe_db]

Originally Posted by Dave Neptune

AN fittings are for quick in and out exchanges of an engine for racing and looks for show applications. These fittings are able to disconnect and reconnect quickly, used them in the "pits" many times. I also have used them for show applications as they can be a thing of beauty, especially in hot-boats or hotrods.

Our engines are supposed to be for the "long run" not a short run! Most of our engines run in saltwater and the fittings are just anodized aluminum over a hose covered with stainless braid for "LOOKS". I have worked on engines set up with AN fittings for the long run and was very disappointed when maintenance was needed after a long run. Three of the fittings broke off when trying to get loose on one application and a few on others. The aluminum (lightly anodized for looks) had become corroded from the salts and were "seized". This could be catastrophic offshore whereas a standard hose barb still functions for emergency repairs.

If you want the looks, go-4-it, if you want reliability away from the dock don't.

Dave Neptune

This is why I took all mine off. Unless I was spending the cash for actual aircraft quality hose and fittings, it was not going to be near good enough for long term safety and fire-sleeving the hoses hides the cool looking braid anyway.

[ArtJ]

Originally Posted by joe_db

This is why I took all mine off. Unless I was spending the cash for actual aircraft quality hose and fittings, it was not going to be near good enough for long term safety and fire-sleeving the hoses hides the cool looking braid anyway.

Are you guys only referring to sleeving or does this also pertain to Neil's coupling that connects to the carb inlet?

[joe_db]

Originally Posted by ArtJ

Are you guys only referring to sleeving or does this also pertain to Neil's coupling that connects to the carb inlet?

Neil's fittings are not the same thing as we are talking about, although the concept of a flare fitting is similar.

[Dave Neptune]

The brass is fine. These fittings also add another point of possible leakage at the flare or the swaged hose fitting. It's a matter of choice and wallet.

I'm kind of a Keep It Stupid Simple sort of guy.

Dave Neptune

[joe_db]

For those wondering what AN actually is:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AN_thread
It is ArmyNavy from WW II and refers to standard sizes of hoses and fittings.
There are a LOT of manufacturers making these hoses and fittings now, ranging from certified for aircraft use to the cheapest Chinese knockoffs and it isn't always easy to know what you are getting.
While AN uses flare fittings, there are plenty of other sources of flare fittings that are not AN stuff. I really dug into it after I plumed up the engine with the stuff - and yes that is backwards - and scared myself enough to take it all back off. I kind of assumed that from seeing it on airplanes it was all top notch stuff and it is NOT. All kinds of car building/racing forums are full of complaints and there are much better fittings and hoses available now for boats and cars.
As I linked to before, Aeroquip makes USCG rated marine hose with flare fittings if you want the best for some $$$.

[edwardc]

Originally Posted by ArtJ

Is Brass ok to use with Sierra?

I noticed the plugs that come with it are brass or bronze
Art

Brass is not suitable for saltwater applications because of its high zinc content. Electrolysis can quickly "de-zincify" it into a weak pink corrosion. That's why stainless or bronze are always used for underwater.

That having been said, brass is probably OK for a fuel line. But my personal preference is to simply avoid all brass fittings in a marine saltwater environment, regardless of whether they're underwater or not.

A lot depends on how salty the water you sail in is. Here in the Chesapeake, its brackish and not very salty. In the Bahamas, on the other hand, the water is so salty that even my "stainless" deck fittings start to corrode without frequent cleaning. YMMV