#1
IP: 104.254.68.254
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Installing Oil Pressure Safety Switch...stuuuuuuck
Hello all -
this is related to my other thread about not starting...but i created a distinct one for future search purposes. I ordered and received the electric fuel pump conversion kit from Moyer Marine. Started the install today. After some swearing, i removed the old mechanical fuel pump...now i have some room to work. Trying to remove the brass plug where the OPSS should go. This is toward the back of the motor, above the pressure adjuster. Man, is that brass soft. What is the best way to remove? I've put a nice, wide flat screw bit into a socket, then used a ratchet. It sets in well, but turning the ratchet just begins to chew up the brass. I stopped. I don't want to modify the sending unit behind the flywheel if i don't have to . Obviously heat is out of the question. i'm thinking i'll buy a 90-degree angled impact driver? Not enough room to use a head-on tool...needs to be an angle. The motor is 45 years old...is it a lost cause to even try?
__________________
Stella Blue - a 1986 O'Day 272 with a Volvo Penta MD7A diesel former owner of Euphoria - a 1971 Tartan 30 with an Atomic 4 |
#2
IP: 32.211.28.40
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Agree, that brass is soft. When I replace those plugs, I use the ones with socket heads.
In your case, recommend you remove the sender aft of the flywheel and install a HD grease gun hose. On the other end of the hose, build a mini-manifold for the OP sender and the OP safety switch. A couple of Ts, a close nipple, and a plug should do it. Don't forget to run a ground wire to it. |
#3
IP: 137.103.82.194
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Here is mine. The one wire alarm sensor is now a 3 wire alarm and OPSS sensor.
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#4
IP: 172.249.104.171
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iirc there is a second oil pressure port near the drive side.. by the mech fuel pump - might have a plug in it but i think i used that one last year for an electric conversion.. - why not leave in the brass fitting and add the adapters?
Get 2 female to female, add one between existing and the T to that and the other again between old oil switch and T Old oil switch - (Female) --- T --- (female) ---- [block] |
#5
IP: 104.254.68.254
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thanks, all. I ended up using the Moyer Plan B, as outlined in the included instructions. Removed the sender unit (but not the nipple in the block), attached the T, sender unit vertical on the T, OPSS horizontal at the end of the T.
only issue is the T could be seated better. If it's oriented correctly, it's not tight. I didn't want to try to rotate it around again. just want to get the motor running at this point...i can go back afterward and try to tighten that....
__________________
Stella Blue - a 1986 O'Day 272 with a Volvo Penta MD7A diesel former owner of Euphoria - a 1971 Tartan 30 with an Atomic 4 |
#6
IP: 71.222.3.150
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When you can, I'd suggest using a hose and move the whole array over to the bulkhead.
Takes the weight off of that nipple AND makes everything easier to get to.
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-Jerry 'Lone Ranger' 1978 RANGER 30 |
The Following User Says Thank You to roadnsky For This Useful Post: | ||
Administrator (05-23-2018) |
#7
IP: 104.254.68.254
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i agree. I will do that sooner rather than later. Auto parts store yesterday didn't have HD hoses, otherwise i was going to pick one up.
__________________
Stella Blue - a 1986 O'Day 272 with a Volvo Penta MD7A diesel former owner of Euphoria - a 1971 Tartan 30 with an Atomic 4 |
#8
IP: 137.200.32.22
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Check around - grease gun hoses seem to be common. Also any local hydraulic shop should be able to make a nice hose for you with NPT fittings. Our local hardware store has a hydraulic hose fabricator guy too.
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#9
IP: 32.211.28.40
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BTW, HD=Home Depot.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Al Schober For This Useful Post: | ||
alcodiesel (05-23-2018) |
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