Cranking problem with 1968 C&C redwing 30

[Sailr44]

Newbie here and I have a problem. Started with engine overheating. Followed raw water cooling system all the way from intake to heat exchange. All pathways clear with great water pressure. Problem was I got back pressure and the entire cooling system ran hot all the way back to the raw water intake. I shut engine down and let it cool. discovered heat exchanger was blocked. engine ran fine the entire time at about 180 degrees but could hear boiling sound. tried to push water through heat exchange with no luck. I took off the hose from rear of heat exchange and got great flow. I tried to push a wire thru with no luck. I finally took a long blade screw driver and push down into the heat exchanger. it must have broke the blockage. I poured 6% vinegar down from front intake of heat exchanger thru a clear hose attached. I was rewarded with furious bubbling and black particles coming back up the clear tube. I left it to work for about 30 minutes and then flushed with fresh water. Now here is the problem: while replacing the rear hose on the heat exchanger I caused two wire to break from the coil. I repaired and put back where they had been attached to the coil. There was a green wire looked to be 14g and a red one coming from the back of the alternator it looked to be 16 or 18 g. they were both connected to the coil at the same terminal. When I tried to crank the engine it would not start. I shut off the water intake to keep from flooded engine with water and used starter fluid into the carburetor. still wouldn't crank. Could I have gotten water in the carburetor and that's the reason it won't start. I ran out of time and had to get home so couldn't check if getting fire. Does anyone have any idea about the wiring scheme from the alternator wiring to the coil and where the green wire comes from. It came out of a bundle of wires and the room in the engine room is not very spacious. I'm hoping that if it was water in the carb it will dry and resolve the problem, but if not I am lost. Thanks and sorry it was so long a post.

[ndutton]

I suggest getting after two things right away:

• Revert the cooling system to raw water for the time being and remove the heat exchanger for a thorough roto-rooter. Remove the impeller from the coolant pump during this raw water time.
• Sort out the coil wires. I suspect the two wires in question come from the ignition switch and the alternator (excite wire). Don't count on colors providing any guidance because they are wrong. You'll have to trace them back to their respective sources to be certain of their function. Once the coil wiring is correct check for spark out of the plug wires.

Oh yeah, one more request - please report back how many times dock experts (a derogatory term around here) tell you "get a diesel"

[Sailr44]

Cooling system is raw water. I followed all the paths of the cooling system and after the acetic acid flush could pump water through the heat exchange at a good rate. The only problem I have now is it won't crank. I'll have to find some wiring schematics to see were the wires should go. Engine ran great before I messed with the cooling system and broke the wires. I'm pretty sure I placed the wires back on the terminal on the coil where they came from. I replaced them quickly so I wouldn't forget. I can't do anything today with the engine. terrible thunder/lightning and heavy rains so will have to wait impatiently for the weather to clear. SW Louisiana is in the throes of yet another flooding it seems.

Thanks for the reply and the advice. So far no one has suggested a diesel LOL

[ndutton]

Sorry, I misunderstood your mention of a heat exchanger, a fresh water cooling component not found on raw water cooled engines.

Wiring diagrams are available on this forum in the drawings and schematics category.

[Sailr44]

Thanks ndutton for your replies. I think I found out my problem. I am getting a weak spark through my spark plugs. From what I've read that means my distributor condenser is bad. I got a new one through autozone along with a new rotor and points (cap on order) They actually had a listing for Atomic 4 engines for ignition parts. The only thing they didn't have listed was a coil. Do you know what coil I would need to replace the old one. the one on the engine now has no part number so I couldn't find a substitute. Sorry about the mix up with the heat exchange thing. I really appreciate your assistance. I've worked on atomic 4's before. Partially rebuilt one with cooling problem on a Catalina 27 that I had in Hawaii. Unfortunately the data along with the boat stayed in Hawaii after a divorce back in 1997. If you have a part number and manufacture of the Coil I would appreciate it.

thanks again.

[ndutton]

MY first suggestion is buy one from Moyer Marine. In doing so you are guaranteed to have the right coil but that goes for anything bought from them. However if you prefer sourcing a coil locally, any canister type oil filled 12V coil with 3Ω internal resistance will work. For your points ignition a Pertronix Flamethrower 40511 is suitable.

[Sailr44]

Thanks for the info. There were 2 coils that auto zone had that came close but only one had the internal resistant. I'm going to replace the condenser first and see if that cures the problem. Ill have to wait on the Moyer coil due to finances right now.

Thanks again

[ndutton]

Sailr, it's just boats. Pick your spot, do it when you can. It's fair to say just about everyone on this forum has an older boat judging by the engine that hasn't been manufactured since 1982 and we are all frugal and careful with expenses.

Welcome to the club . . . . .

[JOHN COOKSON]

44
Take the present coil to to the auto parts store to get a new one the right physical size.
Also take a battery powered ohm meter along to get one that has the correct resistance.

TRUE GRIT

[Sailr44]

Thanks to all for our input! I found my problem. I read somewhere on here about how to check if coil was bad. If you remove coil wire to distributor and ground it with engine block and you get no spark then the coil is bad. If you get a weak spark, condenser is bad. I got a weak spark and replaced the condenser. That solved the problem and engine cranked up first try after the replacement. One thing I wish is that the screws holding the distributor cap on were stainless steel or some other none corrosive. The ones on the old cap were completely rusted out. I had fun trying to remove them. Finally had to break old distributor and use vice grips to remove what was left of the screws. Greased up the screws on the new cap hoping that it will slow down corrosion.

I guess I failed to mention this was a boat I won on e-bay from boat angel and I have had much "fun" replacing wires and cleaning up the engine. Unfortunately the "engine room?' has not got a lot of room to work. I will be removing and rebidding along with some fiberglass work on the deck to stop some leaks from stanchions etc

Thanks again for all your words of advice.