engine fouls plugs at start

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • Noelripley
    Member
    • Sep 2010
    • 4

    engine fouls plugs at start

    I have a 1971 Tartan 30 with an Atomic four; it ran well most of the summer, half way through our trip to Maine it developed a problem most notable when starting the engine. It was hard to start; when it did start it ran on two cylinders, when I pulled the plugs the first two plugs from the transmition side of the engine were loaded with fuel. It now does this every time I start it. So I checked to see if I am getting spark. Yes it has a nice blue spark. It is getting fuel because the plugs are wet with fuel. At this point if I dry out the plugs or swap them with new ones the engine runs reasonability well and will run like this all day.

    This spring I put the following new components on the engine: spark plugs, cap, rotor, wires, new carburetor, rebuilt the fuel pump, coil and a new fuel tank. A few years ago I put the indigo electronic ignition on the engine.

    Does anyone have any ideas what is wrong?

    Thanks, Noel.
  • Don Moyer
    • Oct 2004
    • 2806

    #2
    Noel,

    Hopefully, other Tartan owners will weigh in but I'm wondering if your exhaust system might be failing and allowing a bit of engine cooling water to drip down into your hot section and manifold. Do you have an original standpipe exhaust system?

    Don

    Comment

    • Noelripley
      Member
      • Sep 2010
      • 4

      #3
      Hi Don,

      I do have the original stand pipe exaust. Is the best place to look for moisture where the exaust connects to the manifold?

      Thanks, Noel.

      Comment

      • Al Schober
        Afourian MVP
        • Jul 2009
        • 2006

        #4
        Noel,
        You can check for water at whatever junction is easiest for you to disassemble. I think I'd go for the joint at the fwd end of the exhaust manifold. You'll have to break that joint anyway to do any exhaust work.
        With that joint opened up a bit - 1/2" should do - run water into the hose going to the standpipe. Not a lot, just enough to give you some flow over the side. If you get any water from the engine end of the pipe, you know the standpipe is bad. If so, buy a new one from Moyer and put things back together with new hot piping & insulation. You should be good for another 40 years!

        Al

        Comment

        • ArtJ
          • Sep 2009
          • 2175

          #5
          I have a Tartan 34C with identical or very closely similar exhaust standpipe.
          the Standpipe is Bronze, so it will probably not fail. A number of years ago
          i replaced all the black iron leading to the standpipe. The black iron threads
          into the vertical standpipe. Switching to a different system or water lift
          muffler is a major change. I have had zero problems with the standpipe
          system. It exits of the side of the boat.

          YOu can access the standpipe by removing the plywood plenium surrounding it
          the forward section should only need to be removed. This should give you
          access to the entire exhaust system as well as all hoses and thru hulls.
          Make sure that where the exhaust enters the plenium it is well wrapped
          with exhaust wrap and is a elbow, not a plugged t fitting to further keep it
          away from wood.

          Best Regards

          Art

          Comment

          Working...
          X