#1
IP: 107.77.97.27
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How does my A4 sound?
Hey guys, thanks for all the advice on the project. I finally have the new engine in! Nearly done.
Just did a test start and it fired up instantly. No hesitation. A few notes... The exhaust manifold needs a gasket and one of the bolts wont grab. So there's an exhaust leak. Alternator isn't installed yet. I'm still priming the fresh water side.. Salt water isn't plumbed yet. With that out of the way. How does it sound? Healthy? [YOUTUBE]Vk1Yc2GWbFQ[/YOUTUBE] Last edited by Administrator; 06-17-2019 at 06:36 AM. |
#2
IP: 74.107.30.238
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Sounds OK..the best part is that it is running! Great news.
What part of the manifold bolts won't grab? Those are usually studs. Since the threads are in the water jacket, it is common for them to corrode and not grab that go into the block. I put in a Moyer oversized stud in the aft manifold hole to solve this problem. I would probably also recommend some Permatex in there too so you can help seal that up after you tap the new threads. We probably have some plumbing suggestions once you are finalizing things, but we'll save that for later. Looks like a C-30 with the galley removed. The galley part is a lot of work to remove, but then the engine access is really pretty good! nice work getting it running again...P.S.> by the way, the engine will run a long time with no alternator. the coil does an amazing job making spark and not using lots of juice.
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-Shawn "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109 "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!) Last edited by sastanley; 06-17-2019 at 09:52 PM. |
#3
IP: 73.83.157.183
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Thanks for the comments. When it first fired up I was concerned because there's a lot of racket. I'm hearing an intermittent squeak, there's a ton of tapping, and the exhaust leak wasn't helping. Sounds like a tractor! But then I remembered.. this is a tractor motor. So... I suppose it's all normal.
The lower exhaust thread seems to have stripped... Starboard side on the exhaust manifold. I can grab threads deeper in the channel... but the threads which the bolt reaches after passing through the flange just won't grip. I'm thinking about picking up a longer bolt, a locking nut, and locking washer. Then sink the longer bolt deeper in to the exhaust manifold where the threads are good and tightening a locking nut to secure the flange as a short term solution. I'm having another exhaust manifold serviced and I'll swap them once it's ready. I'd love to hear any plumbing suggestions. |
#4
IP: 70.185.132.167
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Consider re plumbing with the Thatch modification.
The thatch modification is when water is introduced into the low end of the manifold and exits at the hight end of the manifold. The result is no air pockets and better manifold cooling. TRUE GRIT |
The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to JOHN COOKSON For This Useful Post: | ||
#5
IP: 72.218.38.55
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Tractor- yes one can buy carb rebuild kits on tractors.com but make no mistake our mighty A4s were designed and built to be a marine engine.
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Bill McLean '76 Ericson 27 :valhalla: Norfolk, VA |
#6
IP: 73.83.157.183
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Getting it dialed in. Sounding much better! I'm about to replace all the spark plugs and the thermostat while I'm at it.
Meanwhile, does anybody know what water pump this is? |
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