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Old 10-11-2009, 08:32 PM
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Experience Cleaning a Dirty Fuel Tank in Place

This note is to relate my experience cleaning a badly gunked up fuel tank in place.

I use my Pearson 35 mostly for day sailing which only requires about 1/2 gallon of fuel in and out of port. As a result fuel can remain in the tank for well over a year. I use stabalizer and had not had problems or so I thought. What I didn't realize is that a thick tarry layer was building up in the bottom of the tank. I noticed it only when my fuel filter plugged and subsequently when I probed the tank with a wooden rod. It had a consistency like tar that was very evident on the stick.

To remove it, I first pumped the gasoline from the tank. I pumped it out through the filler pipe in the cockpit with an inexpensive automotive electric fuel pump in a length of 3/8th fuel line that I purchased at an auto supply store. I wired a cigarette lighter 12 volt male plug on the pump wire and ran it from the boat 12 volt supply. All of the gasoline handling was in the cockpit which I considered safe. Next, I poured two gallons of laquer thinner in the tank and let it slosh around for about two weeks. That disolved the gunk. I pumped that out. Then I added a couple of gallons of gasoline and a can of fuel injector additive and let that slosh around a couple of days and pumped it out. I repeated this a second time and as best I can determine, that cleaned out the gunk. I put a clear plastic fuel filter in the line each time I pumped the tank. I found I couldn't use the filter when I pumped the lacquer thinner as the filter quickly plugged. I was able to filter the first gasoline flush but still saw some pretty ugly black stuff coming through. I did not see anymore of it with the third flush. Probing the tank with the wooden rod also shows no more evidence of the black tar. These flushes need to be disposed of -- the definitely cannot be used used in a lawmower engine and in fact, can pretty well mess up a gas can. (I found cheap 5 gallon cans at Sam's, btw.) Only after the second flush did I pull gasoline from the tank through my on-board electric fuel pump system.

I relate this in case my experience is useful for anyone else. I'm not sure if this is an approved method or anything Don would approve, but it seemed to work for the thick tar like organic material in my tank and was much easier than removing the tank. I didn't have any solid material, like rust, dirt, or sand and suspect what I did wouldn't work for that sort of contamination. Depending on the organic material in the tank, it could take more than one lacquer thinner flush I suppose. One can determine that by probing the tank after the first batch has sloshed around and also by observing what you pump out.

Based on what I found in the tank, my plan from now on is to pump the tank out each fall, use that gas in the lawn mower, and add about five gallons of fresh gas with stabalizer to the boat tank. I may repeat that in the spring as it is easy to do. I have never seen any evidence of water (condensation) in the fuel tank, perhaps due to the ethanol in gasoline today. So I don't see a reason to keep the tank full.

Bob (1975 Pearson 35)
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Old 10-11-2009, 09:56 PM
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Bob, I second that school of thought keeping as little fuel as needed during lay up. Even as little as one gallon. Today's fuels break down quickly. Any minor condensation moisture can be handled by a separator filter with ease.

This is a big problem with power boats resulting in predetonation engine damage.
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Old 10-11-2009, 10:20 PM
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BobA,
Thanks for the tips. It sounds like a reasonable approach and I'll give it a try.
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Old 10-12-2009, 05:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BobA View Post
... my plan from now on is to pump the tank out each fall, use that gas in the lawn mower, and add about five gallons of fresh gas with stabalizer to the boat tank.(1975 Pearson 35)
What is your thinking in putting fresh gas back in, in the fall? Why not leave the tank empty all winter, and drain the carb too?

I like the idea of building a portable fuel pumpout around a cheap automotive electric pump -- Never occurred to me. I've spent many hours prowling stores looking for a decent hand pump that would last more than one season.
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Last edited by rigspelt; 10-12-2009 at 05:52 AM.
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Old 10-12-2009, 07:37 AM
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why leave any gas in the tank over winter

Good question? I have no idea whether it would be better to leave the tank empty and can't say I thought that through. I was only thinking of the choice between full and five gallons (one gas can full).

One thought that occurs now that you ask, I don't believe I can drain the tank completly dry. I think the fixed and my pump out pickup tube aren't able to do so. So is five gallons better than say one quart? I wonder what experience others have had with that. Running the carburator seems smart though. That works well with my small lawn maintenance gasoline equipment.

Bob (1975 Pearson 35)
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Old 10-12-2009, 08:49 AM
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You can improve your ability to remove water and other contaminants from the tank by simply "leaning" the boat in the direction of the pickup tube's location in the tank. On a boat where the pickup tube is forward, put some weight up on the bow, etc.

Bill
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Old 10-14-2009, 12:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BobA View Post
... These flushes need to be disposed of -- the definitely cannot be used used in a lawmower engine and in fact, can pretty well mess up a gas can. (I found cheap 5 gallon cans at Sam's, btw.) ...

Bob (1975 Pearson 35)
Where can you take tainted fuel like this to dispose of it?

Thanks.
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Old 10-14-2009, 01:05 PM
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I live in a suburb of Los Angeles and we have household hazardous disposal facilities that are convenient and free. After stopping by and confirming in advance that they accepted gasoline, I disposed of about 25 gallons. I bought a used 55 gallon plastic drum on ebay for $10 to transport the gas which the disposal site kept. The only questions asked of me were my ZIP code (had to reside in L.A. County to use their services) and the origin of the gas (only household materials allowed). I explained that it was stale gas from my personal boat and we were good to go.
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Old 10-14-2009, 02:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rigspelt View Post
What is your thinking in putting fresh gas back in, in the fall? Why not leave the tank empty all winter, and drain the carb too?
I think the reason to fill the tank over the winter is to prevent oxidation of the tank's interior. It's probably a hold over from an earlier time when tanks were made of steel. I kept my motorcycle's tank full over the winter for just that reason. I'd run the fuel line dry, however. Last winter I filled the boat's gas tank, adding the usual amount of MMO and extra stabilizer. I used the blue anti-phase separation Sta-bil. I don't think I ran the fuel line dry. In the spring, the A4started on the first crank and the fuel caused no problems. This year I'm doing the same thing, although I might run the fuel line dry. My tank is monel and I have no idea if monel oxidizes but I'm sticking with what's been tried and true.

Mark
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Old 08-27-2011, 08:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CalebD View Post
Where can you take tainted fuel like this to dispose of it?

Thanks.
I took my old fuel (12 gallons) to a marina, which added it to a tank of old fuel.
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Old 08-27-2011, 10:12 PM
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Man I had a hell of a time finding a place here, and there are boats EVERYWHERE here. The Marina had a deisel disposal facility, and oil disposal facility...but no gas. I ended up driving 30 minutes and lying about my address. I just couldn't find anything in my area. This seems like a problem to me.
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Old 08-28-2011, 06:58 AM
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For old gas, find some local diesel enthusiasts that make home made diesel fuel using old gas, yes.... some use "OLD" gas as part of their diesel recipe.
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Old 08-28-2011, 09:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rigspelt View Post
I like the idea of building a portable fuel pumpout around a cheap automotive electric pump -- Never occurred to me. I've spent many hours prowling stores looking for a decent hand pump that would last more than one season.
By way of followup: I just bought a valved outboard outboard gasoline pump and hooked two lengths of rubber fuel line to it. Tied one of them to a stick and use that to pump out the tank each autumn by disconnecting the fill hose. Both empties the tank and allows me to check for crud or water in the bottom. Only takes a few minutes. Has been clean fuel last two seasons.
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Last edited by rigspelt; 08-28-2011 at 09:31 AM.
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Old 08-29-2011, 04:58 PM
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Condensation

Filling the tank as part of your winterizing prevents condensation from forming on the interior walls of the fuel tank and fouling your fuel.

Stabil or Sea foam is a good additive for winterrizing fuel.

Using a non ethanol fuel is even better.
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Old 09-18-2012, 10:36 AM
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Smile Waste Fuel

In Charlotte County, Florida, our waste disposal company picks up waste oil at the curb, and waste fuel at a free collection center near by. A nice service. Come to Florida and sail year around.
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Old 09-21-2012, 08:23 AM
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there's a place around here called HAZMAN. i think they have locations all over. they were very nice and helpful and took my contaminated gasoline for around $.50 / lb. [i think 1 gal gas is 7.5 lbs, so that would be 3.75 / gal]

they also take almost anything else, and i consider the fee very reasonable for what they do.

i'll post the url for their website later.
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Old 09-21-2012, 09:02 AM
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Did you determine where the contamination came from in the first place?
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