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  #26   IP: 71.181.37.53
Old 09-24-2010, 09:23 AM
ArtJ ArtJ is offline
 
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I was just wondering, is there a standard hose barb that could be
directly threaded into the 3/8 passage? Possibly using one of the
90 degree street ells first for clearance issues? The shutoff could
then be in line with the hose at a convenient point. Possibly just
use a standard tank shutoff valve with barbs?

Would there be any issues with the standing fuel in the first section
of hose? Course it could be drained periodically. Would it affect the
jet operation?

Regards

Art
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  #27   IP: 71.181.37.53
Old 09-24-2010, 09:27 AM
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Barb directly to passage?

A thought just occurred to me - is it possible to direclly thread a hose
barb into the passage block, possible with a 90 degree street ell for
clearance issues first?

The shutoff could be put at a convenient place in the hose line, using
a standard tank shutoff valve with hose barbs.

Would there be any issues with having a section of hose with gas in it
directly connected to the main jet passage. Would this affect jet operation?

Regards

Art
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  #28   IP: 71.181.37.53
Old 09-24-2010, 09:29 AM
ArtJ ArtJ is offline
 
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Sorry about double post
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  #29   IP: 173.166.26.241
Old 09-24-2010, 09:52 AM
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hanleyclifford hanleyclifford is offline
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Art - I think we are getting a little carried away with this business of "fuel approved" and "marine approved" as enunciated by office experts. Very few things on a boat are really "approved". How about fan belts, batterys, copper, coolant hoses. I"m not advocating dangerous installations but let's not get wrapped around the axle on labels. 7910K11 can be adapted with 9171K62 to obtain the "marine blessing" but as Neil has rightly pointed out we want to be careful about hanging too much weight on that carb bowl. Regards, Hanley
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  #30   IP: 71.181.37.53
Old 09-24-2010, 10:03 AM
ArtJ ArtJ is offline
 
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Hi Hanley

What do you think of the barb directly in idea? It would reduce weight
Regards

Art
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  #31   IP: 173.166.26.241
Old 09-24-2010, 10:09 AM
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Art - I would not be comfortable using hose (not even approved marine) at this location. A copper flare type led off to a valve might be ok. Regards, Hanley
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  #32   IP: 71.181.37.53
Old 09-24-2010, 10:14 AM
ArtJ ArtJ is offline
 
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Thanks for the info Hanley

Are you at a point of suggesting what would be the "best shot" for a dry trial fit on a old carb?


Regards

Art
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  #33   IP: 71.181.37.53
Old 09-24-2010, 10:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hanleyclifford View Post
Art - I would not be comfortable using hose (not even approved marine) at this location. A copper flare type led off to a valve might be ok. Regards, Hanley
Hanley
A dumb question
On my present engine, and including my spare engine, marine hose
connects directly to the carb. Since the passage block is in nearly
the same area why shouldn't we use it there as well?

Regards

Art
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  #34   IP: 173.166.26.241
Old 09-24-2010, 10:23 AM
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Art - You're right. We do use fuel hose but the problem in this case is that the hose would be very small and the clamps obscured from the easy inspection of a normal fuel line. I like the idea of a valve installed as directly as possible. Regards, Hanley
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  #35   IP: 71.181.37.53
Old 09-24-2010, 10:43 AM
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Hanley

Going with your above recommended valve and adapter,
Is the current diagram as below?


rethread Passage> 3/8 Nptf -> ???fitting> flared copper> ??fitting >1/8 Nptf 7010K11 valve -> 2" npt adapter -> 1/8 Npt to ?? -> hose barb > hose > hose barb > reservoir

Thanks

Art
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  #36   IP: 173.166.26.241
Old 09-24-2010, 01:53 PM
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Art - As they say, a picture is worth a thousand words; I'm not clear about your design but this might be helpful. We are dealing with small sizes here which is why I prefer pipe to hoses. One end of this tube could be in the carb passage and the other in a valve sitting on top of the reservoir somewhere below carb level. Regards, Hanley

Last edited by hanleyclifford; 07-13-2016 at 08:36 PM.
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  #37   IP: 71.181.37.53
Old 09-26-2010, 01:03 PM
ArtJ ArtJ is offline
 
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Thanks very much Hanley

I now see why 1/8 in is bigger than 3/8. It refers to the line itself.

Other engines have a copper line ( standard) from the
mechanical pump to the carburetor fuel input. I am curious if this
fitting fits in the main passage block, or if it has also Nptf?

Regards

Art
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  #38   IP: 71.181.37.53
Old 09-26-2010, 01:34 PM
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As another thought:

What if the passage plug itself was drilled out using a
bit which then has a hose barb brazed to it?

The fuel hose could then directly connect to a barbed in line fuel shutoff on way the water separator.

the Carb passage would remain standard NPTF.

The separator would connect normally with a hose barb, no rethreading.

The hose would push out of the way without damage or kinking when working on the engine in tight spots.

Regards

Art
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  #39   IP: 71.181.37.53
Old 09-26-2010, 01:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArtJ View Post
As another thought:

What if the passage plug itself was drilled out using a
bit which then has a hose barb brazed to it?

The fuel hose could then directly connect to a barbed in line fuel shutoff on way the water separator.

the Carb passage would remain standard NPTF.

The separator would connect normally with a hose barb, no rethreading.

The hose would push out of the way without damage or kinking when working on the engine in tight spots.

Regards

Art
Oops Correction: the passage would remain ordinary fine threads, not NPTF
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  #40   IP: 173.9.105.253
Old 09-26-2010, 02:24 PM
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Not to worry about that. I feel comfortable about opening up 3/8"NF to 1/8"NPT.
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  #41   IP: 71.181.37.53
Old 09-26-2010, 02:45 PM
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Hanley

I see 3/8 street Ells in MMI catalog,, 45 deg, 90 deg.

Could these be put into the straight 3/8 threaded passage directly
then fitted out with a standard hose barb? It seems everything would
just thread together?

Regards

Art
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  #42   IP: 173.9.105.253
Old 09-26-2010, 03:38 PM
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Question

Art - Remember the 3/8" NPT refers to the ID of the passage whereas in NF the number is close to the OD of the fitting. The carb can be opened to 1/8" NPT and then any combination can be used including the short pipe set up I posted. How about using an additional Racor unit as your reservoir with a McMaster's valve on top? - Regards, Hanley
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  #43   IP: 71.181.37.53
Old 09-26-2010, 03:50 PM
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Thanks Hanley

I am getting more educated all the time. Just made a trip to Home Depot

The closest I could get was the following:

A 1/8 x 1/8 street Ell to a 1/8 nipple to a 1/8 x 1/4 reducer to a 1/4 hose barb. Longer than I would like, approx 3 ", due to reducer and nipple before barb, but possible.

Doesn't Moyer carry a barb to 1/8 NPT male that threads directly into
the carb for Electric pump usage? Maybe that could be used into the
passage block after tapping to 1/8 NPT.

Thanks again


Art
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  #44   IP: 71.181.37.53
Old 09-26-2010, 04:13 PM
ArtJ ArtJ is offline
 
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hanley

It looks like the Best option could be the below from MMI catalog?

Brass hs brb 1/8" MNPT x 5/16" barb 90

the carb passage would be directly addressed after tapping.
with the above fitting


I think the Fuel water separator takes 1/4" barbs, so maybe more adapting on that end to get to 1/4 "? or possibly force 1/4 hose onto 5/16 barb?

Then just add in line valve near Racor as you suggest.

Regards,

Art
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  #45   IP: 173.9.105.253
Old 09-26-2010, 04:20 PM
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Now the remaining issue becomes getting an overboard vent line to the other side of the Racor.
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  #46   IP: 71.181.37.53
Old 09-26-2010, 04:27 PM
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Hanley
Since this would be used infrequently and emptied when convenient,

Wouldn't the squeeze bulb from the normal fuel line be sufficient to overcome
and slightly compress a empty racor filters internal air? All that would
be required is a cup or so of fuel. The capacity is much more than that.

Regards

Art
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  #47   IP: 71.181.37.53
Old 09-26-2010, 04:28 PM
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PS

That way, the vent would not need to be opened.
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  #48   IP: 71.181.37.53
Old 09-26-2010, 04:43 PM
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Vent hose
Maybe also could possibly lay a small vent hose up into the normal
vent blower's intake hose ? Always shutting the racor vent off when bleeding
completed.

Filter
Actually, I have a older metal filter from Fram that I already have which
I will probably use for this purpose instead of forking out cash for a
second Racor. Probably won't need filters either since the fuel will
not be going back in engine.
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  #49   IP: 71.181.37.53
Old 09-26-2010, 05:47 PM
ArtJ ArtJ is offline
 
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Another thought

If the Shutoff is located at the racor filter, possibly several ft away from the
passage drain port, potentially, the fresh trapped fuel could be subject to later becoming stale over time and via back flow reenter the carb passage and possibly foul the jet again?

Perhaps this is a reason
to have the shutoff valve located closer to the carb main passage keeping
the quantity of fuel trapped at a minimum. or certainly bleed this line
periodically.


Maybe locate the shut off valve closer possibly where the mechanical
pump originally was?

Regards

Art
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  #50   IP: 38.118.55.125
Old 09-26-2010, 05:55 PM
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Art,

For what it's worth, we now have main passage plugs and the washers in stock. They are not as yet on the online catalog so you will have to call Ken at (610) 421-4436 to order a set. Our price is $10 for the set plus shipping.

Don
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