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  #1   IP: 72.54.61.113
Old 01-23-2012, 11:14 AM
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RPM at Idle Question

Okay, another dumb question from me to the intellect of the board. How steady should my RPMs at idle be? Quick history to my question.

I had a vacuum leak where the carb attaches to the intake manifold. Rather than get just a new gasket, I ordered the indigo PCV kit (as my slash tube was missing and I was blowing whatever was in my crankcase into my cabin ). I thought this would fix two problems at once.

After installing everything, my idle would vary about 200 – 300 rpm. Even after adjusting the idle screw on the carb, I could not get a consistent idle. I was around 600 – 850 rpm. Not rough, but not consistent.

After reading some posts about the PCV kit causing some air/gas mixture problems, I removed it and just replaced my gasket. My idle is much more consistent now, but it will hold at around 600 rpms but occasionally drop every 10 seconds or so to about 450 – 500 rps for just a quick second, then go back up to about 600 RPMs. When I give it gas, no problem.

So I said all that to go back to my original question, should the RPMs at idle be spot on the same…say at 600 RPMs, or is a little fluctuation in the RPMs normal.

Thanks.
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Old 01-23-2012, 11:30 AM
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Although it's difficult to do so with such a beautiful set up I'll resist commenting on your PCV experience. When I do it seems to get the hair up on everybody's neck.

My idle has no such fluctuations with a factory original configuration.

Can you tell if your alternator is putting out a charge at idle, 13+ volts on the voltmeter or positive amps on the amp gauge? If yes, I wonder if alternator load is causing the RPM dip. The cyclical nature of your symptom doesn't fit the alternator theory but then again, who knows? Maybe test run at the slip with the alternator belt removed, see if that makes a difference.
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Old 01-23-2012, 11:45 AM
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Does it run smoothly at say 800 RPM? 600 seems low. I think 700 to 800 RPM would be fine. Just stay below 1000 when placing in gear.
Neil: What control you have. Dan S/V Marian Claire
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Old 01-23-2012, 11:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marian Claire View Post
Neil: What control you have. Dan S/V Marian Claire
Ha! When I first read that I thought, "Huh? Control for what, choke, throttle, alternator?" Then I read it again and the fog cleared.

I still got a veiled zinger in there, that'll have to do this time around.
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Old 01-23-2012, 12:10 PM
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Thanks for the replies. I will up the idle to around 800 and see what happens.

Ndutton – you may be on to something with my alternator. It does make a muffled clacking noise (obviously hard to explain) which seems to correlate with varying RPMs. How do I test it without the alternator belt as you mentioned? Do I just keep the boat plugged into shore power and take off the belt?
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Old 01-23-2012, 12:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwilson1515 View Post
How do I test it without the alternator belt as you mentioned? Do I just keep the boat plugged into shore power and take off the belt?
Nah, no need for shore power. Just remove the belt and start normally. The electrical requirement to run the engine is small and your battery can supply sufficient power for quite a while.
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Old 01-23-2012, 01:49 PM
Dave Neptune Dave Neptune is offline
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Lightbulb Idle

My suspicion is your idle adjustment and or a vac leak not associated with the PCV valve. I have the PCV and idle rock solid at 600 in gear and 700 in neutral with the J-8's. I can do this for hours and no RPM fluctuations.
I do find that getting the idle right requires a bit more than one adjusting session. After adjusting every time I restart cold I give the idle screw a tiny twist out until I have an occasional stumble then close the idle screw back around 1/8 turn max. Then I run til I need to remove the carb for it's next bi-nual inspection.

Dave Neptune
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Old 01-23-2012, 02:32 PM
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Ooh, that caught my attention.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Neptune View Post
After adjusting every time I restart cold I give the idle screw a tiny twist out until I have an occasional stumble then close the idle screw back around 1/8 turn max.
To confirm, you adjust the idle screw every time you start cold? I seem to recall Hanley saying he also makes adjustment a routine part of normal engine operation.

These are the only two such reports I remember and as they come from forum regulars I'm wondering if this is more commonplace than reported.

Anybody else??
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Old 01-23-2012, 02:42 PM
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I have the Indigo PCV valve kit installed, but I haven't yet put significant time on the rebuild. When I did run it, though, I ran it for probably about 20 minutes, and there was no fluctuating or pulsing of any kind. I will say, though, that the idle seemed a bit high, so I'm thinking at some point I'm going to have to fiddle with the idle adjustment and see what's what.
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Old 01-23-2012, 03:25 PM
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Thanks for all of the help with this. Another question and forgive me if I should have started with a new post.

Rarely, but sometimes, when I hit the button to start my engine, I get nothing. The lights will dim, but nothing happens. This happened last weekend, I taped the solenoid a few times, and it stopped.

I suspect I need a new solenoid. Is this an easy job? Do I have to remove the starter to replace the solenoid? What all is really involved.

Thanks again everyone.

Cheers
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Old 01-23-2012, 03:37 PM
Dave Neptune Dave Neptune is offline
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Exclamation No No no

Niel, only until I have leaned a tick at a time and it idles rough then 1/8 closed and it will sit until I have the carb off again. I got good at this whiloe trying different jets and float settings a few years back. The last I touched it was probably march of 2010.

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Old 01-23-2012, 03:41 PM
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No, I don't think it's a solenoid issue. The dimming lights are the giveaway.

It sounds like the starter has an intermittent issue resulting in a locked rotor or short to ground. The dimming lights tell me the solenoid is conducting electricity fine and plenty of it. A failed solenoid doesn't conduct, your symptom is the opposite.

Dave,
It looks like I misunderstood. That's why I asked.
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Old 01-23-2012, 03:44 PM
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Lightbulb Starter

jw, you can replace the solenoid however unless you are good at it I wouldn't bother. Just pull the starter and take it to a rebuilder. They can do the whole thing including replace the solenoid, brushes and bearings for about half what a starter would cost and not much more than just the solenoid. In my humble opin just have it done, unless you're good at rebuilding a starter or just want to learn how. Personally I have the skills and tools and I take it to a rebuilder they're a bit of a PIA but not bad if you know the trix!

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Old 01-23-2012, 04:57 PM
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Thanks for all the replys and help. If you guys are ever in the Clear Lake area of TX I will buy you a beer!
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Old 01-23-2012, 08:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwilson1515 View Post
Thanks for all the replys and help. If you guys are ever in the Clear Lake area of TX I will buy you a beer!
Wish I had known that two weeks ago.... Spent the weekend on a friend's boat slipped at Watergate. Maybe next time!

You might also check for corrosion at the heavy wire from the battery at starter terminal. Mine was acting the same way and cleaning that connection really seemed to help.
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Old 01-23-2012, 10:13 PM
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Talking

Quote:
Originally Posted by ndutton View Post
To confirm, you adjust the idle screw every time you start cold? I seem to recall Hanley saying he also makes adjustment a routine part of normal engine operation.

These are the only two such reports I remember and as they come from forum regulars I'm wondering if this is more commonplace than reported.

Anybody else??
Actually, it is the main jet that I adjust routinely. BTW, with the Indigo PCV system I have no problem maintaining a steady idle anywhere from 300 to 800 rpm. The lower value is only used to check TDC timing (centrifugal should be at 0). A good idle setting is 600 rpm IMO. As far as the surging is concerned, my guess would be that the carb gasket is leaking.
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Old 01-23-2012, 10:24 PM
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Yeah, understood Hanley. I apparently misunderstood Dave's comment and remembered your routine. I didn't mean to suggest it was the idle mix, just that an adjustment was a normal running procedure for you.
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Old 01-26-2012, 07:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hanleyclifford View Post
...A good idle setting is 600 rpm IMO.
I'm gonna go with Hanley on this one...
600-650 is a sure sign of a clean fuel path.
It's a good benchmark for the fleet IMHO.

Although, I'll confess... I still set my "norm" idle at 700-750.
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Old 01-26-2012, 08:58 AM
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jwilson, I am able to get a steady idle with my PCV kit too. I've had so many issues with coils and just keeping it running this past season that I can't report exact numbers, but I am idling somewhere in the 700-800 RPM range.

Since the PCV kit didn't fix the problem, you obviously have a leak somewhere else, so check all connections that don't include the kit. You gotta have an air leak somewhere. Another trick from the car days is to spray a little carb cleaner at the suspected leak areas while you have the throttle set to allow it to surge (with the little red straw so you can pinpoint) - if you get an engine surge some carb cleaner made its way in & you found the leak. I like to use Permatex on just about everything with threads going into the motor these days to seal it up...including gaskets.

BTW - I ran my engine for 45 minutes to get from the sailing club dock to the slip with no alternator, back when I was afraid the alt. was sending 15 volts into the electrical system & the coil (turns out I had other issues). A single gr24 battery ran it no problem..I probably could have motored for several hours with two batteries on board with no alternator.
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Last edited by sastanley; 01-26-2012 at 09:03 AM.
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Old 01-26-2012, 11:36 AM
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Talking FWI gentlemen

I have run for over 5 hours once on the way home from Catalina. My alt. belt broke ( I had a spare but the admiral and crew were in a hurry!) when I started (with weak batteries) on "both". After starting I went back to house (the weak ones 2 6v's @ 235 AH) batteries and motored all the way home, no wind and late in the day. I used the GPS, VHF and the stereo all the way home. The engine ran fine and I was around 10.5 v when I got to the slip and shut down. After shutting down the house batteries would barely turn the engine over. The ignition only draws a bit more than a small 12v light.

Dave Neptune
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