Re-route exhaust

[JasonAmbrose]

After giving up on the A4 in my Tartan, I found a used, operating A4 to put in the boat. The problem is that, in Tartans, the A4 sits midships with the exhaust existing the manifold towards the front of the engine (flywheel end). This 'new' A4 has the exhaust existing the rear/shaft side of the manifold which would be the normal configuration for most non-Tartan A-4s I believe.

Any idea how best to move the exhaust to the other end of the manifold? There is no port on the other end (like there is on the manifold currenttly in my boat). It would appear a hole would need to be placed and the existing covered?

Thanks!!
jason

[joe_db]

Originally Posted by JasonAmbrose

After giving up on the A4 in my Tartan, I found a used, operating A4 to put in the boat. The problem is that, in Tartans, the A4 sits midships with the exhaust existing the manifold towards the front of the engine (flywheel end). This 'new' A4 has the exhaust existing the rear/shaft side of the manifold which would be the normal configuration for most non-Tartan A-4s I believe.

Any idea how best to move the exhaust to the other end of the manifold? There is no port on the other end (like there is on the manifold currenttly in my boat). It would appear a hole would need to be placed and the existing covered?

Thanks!!
jason

https://moyermarine.com/product/mani...ovcm_02-0_303/

The new manifold shown can have the exhaust exit either end Is there a reason you can't use your old one?

[edwardc]

OEM Universal manifolds came in "left handed" and "right handed" versions to address this problem. Moyer's manifold is "ambidexterous" with ports on both ends, and uses a flat plate to seal off the unused port.

[JasonAmbrose]

The manifold on my old unit appears to be this ambidextrous one. It is full if carbon deposit and sludge. Not being a mechanic: how do I clean it out (any components inside I should worry about?) so I can use it on the 'new' engine?

[romantic comedy]

My Tartan 34 has the exhaust out the back of the manifold....

[JasonAmbrose]

Romantic Comedy- If i remember, The T34s are very similar in layout to the T30s. Do you have a picture of how you route the exhaust hot section coming from the back of the manifold?

[romantic comedy]

How is this? This is before I added insulation. Obviously.

I think the T30 is further forward with the exhaust standpipe in the head?

[TomG]

As a T30 guy myself, you definitely want the exhaust out the front of the manifold. If it were me, I'd take the original manifold and have it hot-tanked, repaint it and be done. If the manifold is bad, I'd look for a used one (there's one on this forum right now).

[ndutton]

I half agree with Tom. If the manifold on your old engine can be cleaned out I'd mount it on the replacement engine. If considering a replacement, buying used you'll be paying for only the remaining life which is an unknown quantity especially if it spent its life on a raw water cooled engine. Accordingly I would lean toward a new Moyer manifold unless forced otherwise by immediate budget.

For example there are three used manifolds listed on ebay right now (none of which have forward facing exhaust outlet that you're after) priced between $350 - $450. A brand new Moyer manifold is $412 with the forward facing exhaust. Easy choice if you ask me.

[TomG]

Neil makes a good point. I wouldn't spend $350 on a used manifold, but I'd be interested at $50. If the used price was $350, I would certainly buy new from Moyer.

As a T30 guy, I would be shooting for the MMI Stainless Steel Standpipe for Tartans and if I could save a couple hundred bucks towards that end, I would. I love my standpipe upgrade as much as any of the many I've done. I highly recommend it!

[JasonAmbrose]

Romantic Comedy - Yes the T30 is a bit further forward. Thanks for the pictures, though.

I will try the hot tank on my older manifold with the plan of using it on the 'new' engine.

Thanks
Jason

[sdemore]

Jason, I don't want to say anything afoul of the guru's on here, but when I was putting my engine together, I couldn't get air or water to pass through the manifold. The entire thing was packed solidly with rust and crud. I wasn't sure of how it was supposed to work, but I was pretty sure that wasn't right.

I started with a piece of wire, jamming it around and spinning it with a drill. When I got that through, I cut about 2 feet of spring off of my toilet snake, put it on the drill, and scoured for a couple of hours, then followed up with some rust remover (I didn't know about muriatic acid yet at that point). I wound up with a very clean and functional manifold. The toughest part was replacing the freeze plugs, which I couldn't find anywhere locally. I wound up paying twice as much for shipping as for the plugs, but got the service I needed and had a great manifold when finished.