Order a new carburetor or keep messing around ?

[JDK]

No go, only a few sputters, I bet I have to stay stuck here another month cause it won't run at all without that proper carburetor scavenge tube to the manifold.....I cranked until I flooded it, I'll let it air out and try again later, but I guess that's that.....damm

The reason I can't connect the choke is the new carburetor has some piece flared in to the lever, I need that piece gone, I couldn't smash it back with a pliers, it barely sticks out, probably has to be filed off......I did try it with the choke ziptied once, made a few sputters and died....

[joe_db]

You sound a bit frustrated. The carb can use studs or bolts, I have done it both ways and can't even remember which one I have right now.
If memory serves, the bolts go UP from under the carb. My new carb Moyer shipped me when I was stranded did not have bolts or studs, but the old one did and they just got recycled.
As for your other issues, my engine needs choke unless it is hot from being run. Just a warm day does not cut it. The scavenging tube is important and the size is not readily available anyplace but Moyer. You HAVE to have it, you cannot just leave the holes empty.
As a make-do, the hole in the manifold and in the carb are standard NPT. You can get hardware store hose, fittings and a valve. You need it turned down some, the pipe that would normally be there is tiny.
Good luck! BTW, where are you?

[JDK]

Yeah I guess I screwed up by not ordering a scavenge tube, it never has had one in the first place, how I got the boat, both holes plugged.....oh well, I wasn't being cheap I just can't afford this stuff......I'll sail down to the end of the island and pull the boat manually behind my kayak on a incoming tide to get into the harbor, I'm broke now for 3 weeks......

[TomG]

Originally Posted by JDK

I couldn't connect the choke due to differences but I shouldn't need it today, it's warm....here goes.....

You'll play hell starting without the choke.

[JOHN COOKSON]

If you have a crew member available take the back flame arrestor off and have them block the air intake with their hand as a substitute choke while you crank the engine. If poor or no choke is the reason for the no starts this will work.
Have you been keeping the raw cooling water valve closed during the no start attempts?

TRUE GRIT

[JDK]

Forcing the choke to stay all the way closed was key, I'm now running, sans Scavenge tube.....manifold plugged, carb open through a little hose......I'm going motoring towards the gas station, will advise.......hoorahhh

[joe_db]

If the manifold is plugged, plug the carb too. What that does is suck overflow gas into the engine.
As for the choke - I have no idea how the engine worked without one before. If you have no choke cable, you'll need to be turning it by hand until you get one. The cheap NAPA cable will save money and last about a year before rusting solid, the $$$ Moyer cable is good for a decade or more.

[JDK]

It sounds different and is running smoother, I'm going to clean off the prop and top off my tank and take off headed inland before any further screwups can happen, freshwater marina here I come !!

[JDK]

I'v got a choke cable fine, the new carb has some thingy pressed onto it, it needs to vacate the hole so I can hook it right up and click on it's retaining ring....

[JDK]

I slogged along 2 miles against wind and current and waves dragging the jon and kayak behind.....it runs more or less like it did before when it wasn't acting up.....I decided to halt here as in the am I have tide going my way all day, I should be able to motorsail all the way inland, cross your fingers for me boys....I will now watch the last sunset on the open sea of this season.....cheers

[sastanley]

JDK, In the field, you will need to learn to improvise...it sounds like your previous set up had a lot of 'non-standard' stuff going on that you had to overcome. Sometimes just taking a step back and sitting and thinking helps clear the head when you keep experiencing setbacks. On a boat, sometimes the schedule needs to be discarded so you can cautiously and safely think about the best solution to the immediate problem.

Good job getting it running!

I would recommend you try to figure out the 'no pictures' thing..they really help troubleshooting unique situations like this one.

[JDK]

Any picture I try to upload it says "error upload could not be completed"......they're HD......I'm on a smartphone so no shrinking or playing around possible....

[sastanley]

Understood..not sure how to solve that problem, except dumbing down the source pictures on the phone in your camera settings before taking them.

[CajunSpike]

Originally Posted by JDK

Yeah I guess I screwed up by not ordering a scavenge tube.

My boat didn't have a flame arrestor OR a scavenger tube. Got an arrestor off ebay.
As for the tube, went to Autozone and described the shape and function of the tube. They sent me to the wall display that had PCV tubes/valves. Found a ford pcv tube with the right shape/length and slightly larger tube size than exact fit. Bought a band clamp that fit the tube.

Brought parts back to the boat. As I suspected the small end of the tube was bigger than the connection on the motor, but after the band clamp was installed and tightened up, the tube fit firmly in place. It was perfect length and went into the carb exactly right.

Went to Azone website and looked. Not sure but I think Part Number 46042 is the closest I could find.

Another good job getting it running! Just went down that road myself.

[romantic comedy]

Dont tell anyone but I ran a whole season with the scavenge tube not hooked to the manifold. I never noticed a difference and it has always started and run great. I had just forgot to screw the tube to the manifold...
Remember, Shhhhh.

[CajunSpike]

On the later model engines, the rubber tube is just an EGR device to recirculate fumes in the block back to the carb. While you may get fumes in the cabin without it, there's no way it will make the motor run or not run on its own as far as I understand it.

If somebody wants a pic of how it came out on my boat, let me know. I'll take a close up.

[romantic comedy]

Originally Posted by CajunSpike

On the later model engines, the rubber tube is just an EGR device to recirculate fumes in the block back to the carb. While you may get fumes in the cabin without it, there's no way it will make the motor run or not run on its own as far as I understand it.

If somebody wants a pic of how it came out on my boat, let me know. I'll take a close up.

I think we are talking about 2 different things.
the scavenge tube is a small diameter tube (3/32?) that connects to the carb throat to suck up any liquid gas as a safety device, so that no gas leaks into the boat.

The rubber tube is just to send blow by from the crank case into the carb intake, as a form of pollution control. It really would not effect performance unless the blow by was extreme.

The scavenge tube connects to the manifold and is a small air leak. This could effect performance and effect jetting.

[ndutton]

I suggest building on this experience and assembling a spare parts kit that you keep onboard including a variety of useful fasteners.

[joe_db]

http://www.moyermarineforum.com/foru...ad.php?t=10609

Scavenger tube for sale

[Dave Neptune]

JDK, the scavenge tube is nothing more than a short piece of 1/8 standard copper tubing with standard 1/8" NPT fittings to the carb and manifold. A very important safety feature!!!!!!!

For a temporary choke use anything that you can to "partially" block the carb. Something you could clamp around the carb and poke a pencil sized hole in it. Once she starts "pull" it back off. A piece of vinyl, leather or perhaps a beer can. Just rig a fastener that is easy to remove by hand. Duct tape.

You could also run the starter from the engine box and use your hand for the choke. Be sure to turn the ign on when wanted and off any other time.

Keep the water valve closed until she starts.

Dave Neptune