#1
IP: 67.58.211.40
|
||||
|
||||
Loose Rotor-electronic ignition
Our early model A4 has an electronic ignition...works great....however the rotor is extremely loose. In fact, a friend who did some service work on it up in Killarney last summer put a small washer under it to tighten it up. My question is......There must be a more proper fix.....I keep waiting for an issue to pop up......but so far so good.... Has anyone else had a loose rotor problem and what is the best fix?
|
#2
IP: 142.136.107.234
|
|||
|
|||
Replace
q, there is only one fix and that is new rotor to go with the new cap!! Don't mess around with ignition parts fix them properly! Could be the wrong rotor and it is just getting by. Cap and rotor should always be replaced as a set only!!!
Dave Neptune |
#3
IP: 206.125.176.3
|
||||
|
||||
What Dave said..the rotor has a spring loaded contact on it, so it reaches the contact point in the top of the rotor. Sounds like the washer is serving the function of raising the rotor up to make contact.
Are you sure the cap is seated correctly? It is keyed and should have a cutout for the two wires from the electronic ignition, but not all of them do..sometimes you have to notch the cap yourself...but it should end up level on the distributor. I don't replace them every year, but caps & rotors are cheap, so I consider them a maintenance item, like the water pump impeller, and change them out every couple years on principal. I personally have had the other problem..I had to break the magnetic collar of the electronic ignition that goes on the distributor to get it low enough on the shaft to get the rotor key to seat down on the notch of the dizzy shaft.
__________________
-Shawn "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109 "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!) Last edited by sastanley; 07-24-2014 at 10:26 AM. |
#4
IP: 66.103.44.146
|
||||
|
||||
Loose Rotor
Is the distributor and Rotor available at the usual auto parts stores or do I have to go to the Mother Lode....ie. Moyer Marine?
Thanks for the input!!! |
#5
IP: 71.118.13.238
|
|||
|
|||
Get what u pay 4
q, it is just a standard distributor and yes the parts are available all over. The thing is that not all are quality parts and most are not the marine cap required by the CG. Going to our host first supports this site (how much did you save here) and you will get the right part every time!!!
Dave Neptune |
#6
IP: 206.125.176.3
|
||||
|
||||
I always support Moyer when I can, but I do not buy every part from them. I have a local marina (Zahniser's) that has a well-known A-4 mechanic on staff, so they also stock lots of A-4 parts.
If you want to try out buying parts at the auto boutique of your choice, use this link as a guide. Most do not know what an Atomic 4 is, but they usually stop hassling you with the "what type of car?", if you just give them direct part numbers. For example, the late model Delco distributor parts have several cross reference numbers. http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/atomic4/atomic4parts.htm
__________________
-Shawn "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109 "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!) Last edited by sastanley; 07-24-2014 at 02:25 PM. |
#7
IP: 67.58.212.33
|
||||
|
||||
Rotor
I buy almost everything from MM......however, as you can see I live North of the '49th......which usually means more $$$$, duty, shipping, etc...and at least 10 business days to get the part!.....So........if a NAPA store or something like that have the basic stuff I try to save a few days and a few bucks!!
|
#8
IP: 71.178.96.74
|
||||
|
||||
I totally understand..I have a NAPA between work and home, and sometimes it makes more sense than ordering from Moyer...however, us frequent contributors always push the sponsor's products when we can, since that is what keeps this site alive!!
__________________
-Shawn "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109 "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!) |
#9
IP: 67.142.181.22
|
||||
|
||||
I had a loose rotor issue too - caused timing issue
I found that the rotors from NAPA would not fit down snug on the distributer shaft, Caused havoc in the timing venue. Best to get two from Moyer, one spare one for the engine now. See my threads for details and good luck!
Elizabeth B29 |
#10
IP: 161.213.49.150
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
You'll also notice that the distributor cap you get from the "boutique" auto parts store will (most likely) have aluminun or some other cheapo metal contacts not copper contacts. The cheapo boutique cap and rotor will last ~ 6 months before they die. DAHIK TRUE GRIT |
#11
IP: 67.58.212.185
|
||||
|
||||
Loose Rotor
I've decided to give Ken a call at Moyer, and order up the right parts.....may even replace my really old water pump at the same time!
Thanks for the various input from everyone!!! |
#12
IP: 173.33.177.208
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
Jeff
__________________
1972 Grampian 30 Toronto, Ontario Canada What's a Grampian? http://www.grampianowners.com |
#13
IP: 142.136.107.234
|
|||
|
|||
Jeff, how is it constructed, with brass lugs or the aluminum? They all come in boxes and there are many available some are for marine use.
Don't know what to say . Dave Neptune |
#14
IP: 173.33.177.208
|
||||
|
||||
On the box, it's clearly labelled "professional quality automotive parts"
I think it's perfectly fine - not a concern about the quality. The contact points appear to be brass (yellow metal). Curious as I'm not aware, you mentioned:..." The thing is that not all are quality parts and most are not the marine cap required by the CG"... Do you know what it is specifically CG requires in a cap?
__________________
1972 Grampian 30 Toronto, Ontario Canada What's a Grampian? http://www.grampianowners.com |
#15
IP: 24.152.131.153
|
||||
|
||||
The USCG requires the distributor assembly to meet SAE J1171 ignition proof standard. This is done by a specific testing protocol involving a propane rich atmosphere (no doubt because of propane's similar properties to gasoline vapor) and spark production inside the distributor. If the test atmosphere ignites the component design fails.
Spark producing components on our engines and equipment within the engine space are required to meet the same standard.
__________________
Neil 1977 Catalina 30 San Pedro, California prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22 Had my hands in a few others |
#16
IP: 128.177.81.23
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
The rings of the various brands of distributor vary in size. We're wondering if you have the correct one. Did you purchase it from Moyer Marine? Bill |
#17
IP: 174.94.17.50
|
||||
|
||||
The best way to fix it is to change it out for a MMI electronic ignition and coil...once the distributor is modified you can pretty much forget about it.
|
#18
IP: 174.94.17.50
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
Then it is a "marine" distributor cap Jeff. |
#19
IP: 174.94.17.50
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
Actually Neil...IIANM the early model Prestolite distributor does not meet current CCR standards because it secures with spring loaded clips as opposed to the Delco screw down cap? |
#20
IP: 24.152.131.153
|
||||
|
||||
To my knowledge that is correct but don't ask me why. The early Pertronix distributors had the same issue.
__________________
Neil 1977 Catalina 30 San Pedro, California prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22 Had my hands in a few others |
#21
IP: 66.206.246.175
|
||||
|
||||
So......got the right parts from MM and installed them today....turned the key, broke the rotor! Put the old rotor in and it runs like a kitten....What happened??? Was the cap slightly off centre??? I was pretty careful but who knows...Any comments would be worthwhile!
|
#22
IP: 24.180.102.191
|
|||
|
|||
Not sure what is going on but it doesn't sound good. Everything should just fit into place. I would think it would be hard to get the cap on wrong without noticing it. It is more likely the rotor wasn't on all the way. It is a pretty snug fit but it bottom oiut on the distributor shaft. It only goes on one way. I did have an issue with the collar of the EI not being all the way down when I first installed it. Might be worth double checking that.
__________________
1971 Ericson 32, Atomic 4 1976 Catalina 22 Ludington, MI - Lake Michigan |
#23
IP: 66.206.246.175
|
||||
|
||||
Thanks for the insight.....pretty sure the cap was on correctly. Bottom line......the old rotor went on fine and the engine runs perfectly!!! By the way.....the points on the old cap were badly corroded.....and of course that's why the A4 ran like a diesel! All's well that ends well.....but I am picking up a couple of spare Rotors today from another source.
|
#24
IP: 66.206.246.175
|
||||
|
||||
Oiling the distributor???
The old A4 is now running very well.......but my work on the distributor raised a question to which I cannot find the answer! How often do you add oil??? to the oiler tube on the distributor (Prestolite) , what kind ? (MMO?) and how much??
|
#25
IP: 174.94.17.50
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
I doubt very much you even have the felt absorption material left in your distributor oiling cap though? Put "distributor rebuild" and conversion to electronic ignition on your list of things to do when you have time. |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
A4 original ignition schematic (basic version) | rigspelt | Ignition System | 2 | 09-30-2021 12:36 PM |
A few critical suggestions | Don Moyer | General Interest | 20 | 02-10-2014 01:45 PM |
Ignition 101 | HalcyonS | Ignition System | 14 | 12-06-2013 08:32 PM |
Intermittent shutdowns - ignition circuit | rigspelt | Troubleshooting | 0 | 07-05-2010 06:08 AM |
Motor random jumpy stuttering, rough and stalling check your electronic ignition. | riphonda | Troubleshooting | 8 | 07-16-2009 08:44 PM |