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  #26   IP: 97.67.11.26
Old 09-21-2015, 05:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skywalker View Post
Tres,

Where do you buy those zincs? There is room behind the prop for one.
Skywalker
They've got them at Defender and probably other places. My diver usually keeps them on hand too.
I was having one installed then it turned out the indigo i have is slightly over bored (actually it's totally overboard, zing!) so it wouldn't make contact with the anode spacer. Had to put a donut above the prop, only possible since I've installed a drive saver.
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  #27   IP: 24.152.132.65
Old 09-21-2015, 05:46 PM
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Although the pictured valve should be repaired/replaced to function properly for your safety, it is not the reason your carburetor is leaking. Relying on the valve to stop the leaking is a work-around. There is normally fuel inside the carburetor bowl and it should be contained in the bowl regardless of the position of the manual valve. That it is not contained indicates fuel is leaking out (main passage plug on the bottom?) or the carburetor is overflowing (compromised internal float valve, compromised float). The manual valve is a great backup and fail-safe but it is NOT the reason.
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prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22
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  #28   IP: 107.0.6.242
Old 09-21-2015, 07:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ndutton View Post
Although the pictured valve should be repaired/replaced to function properly for your safety, it is not the reason your carburetor is leaking. Relying on the valve to stop the leaking is a work-around. There is normally fuel inside the carburetor bowl and it should be contained in the bowl regardless of the position of the manual valve. That it is not contained indicates fuel is leaking out (main passage plug on the bottom?) or the carburetor is overflowing (compromised internal float valve, compromised float). The manual valve is a great backup and fail-safe but it is NOT the reason.
Of course not; but the valve is intended to stop leaking should the carb itself fail to hold the fuel pressure. Actually, the most usual cause for carb leakage is failure of the needle and seat to stop the flow. The problem of leaks is frequent enough that the USCG requires the fuel shut off.
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  #29   IP: 68.192.211.133
Old 09-21-2015, 09:02 PM
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my 1966 has the same valve. It is stiff but not crazy stiff.

At first glance, it confused me on which way to close and open, so i marked the bulkhead.

Skywalker
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  #30   IP: 67.232.91.39
Old 09-21-2015, 10:49 PM
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A few notes from my visit with jil.
For future reference, to the best of my knowledge and the short time I had to spend there here is what she has.
Late model direct drive A-4, FWC, electric fuel pump with OPSS, I believe it is points due to finding/feeling only one wire to the distributor. The alternator looks newer that the rest of the engine and I am sure one of you can ID it from the pic.
Cooling system: As stated FWC, fresh water pump appears to be the standard Oberdorfer, it has the back plate with thumb screws and is in the usual location and driven by the accessory drive. I believe the raw water pump is a Sherwood and driven by the belt that also drives the alternator. The raw water thru hull looks skimpy but may just be standard issue for this boat. There is a raw water filter. Hoses are "aged" and damaged by the hose clamps. Heat ex changer is of appropriate size and we discussed the cleaning and zinc replacement process and the possible addition of a T to facilitate winterizing.. The system does have the by-pass and valve. The dry section felt OK, it did not fall apart when I touched it. There is about 5 inches of fall from the high point to the wet/dry connection. From there a new looking hose ran to the SS water lift. Did not follow the system after that.
Electrical: jil planes to replace most or all of the system so little time was spent on it.
Fuel system: This is the most pressing issue for safe use of the A-4. The tank is reported to be fairly new but is set high, I would think that even the bottom of the pick-up tube is above all other parts of the system except the current location of the Racor filter. The only petcock is as shown in the pics and we are not sure it functions. If nothing else, being well below the tank, it leaves the in connection to the petcock totally unprotected. We discussed adding a petcock higher in the system. The Facet pump is a bit rusty. There is a polishing filter in the system just before the carb. Carb is standard issue late model with the fixed main jet. We discussed the function of the scavenge tube, idle adjustment, flame arrestor, up draft design, etc. I believe jil plans to rework the whole system, carb rebuild, new filters, new hoses and petcocks.
We spent some time just pointing out the location of things on the A-4 and how they worked, oil pressure adjustment, OPSS, and talked about valve sequence, manifold construction, coolant water batching, firing order, distributor orientation, finding TDC.
We also engaged the transmission and felt a good solid click in forward and discussed the difference in how forward and reverse work.

I am sure I have left out some stuff.

Dan S/V Marian Claire

Last edited by Marian Claire; 09-21-2015 at 11:00 PM.
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  #31   IP: 71.178.97.150
Old 09-21-2015, 11:26 PM
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Thumbs up

Dan and I have met and chatted extensively over A-4's. He is an old salt on all these things and I feel his knowledge is trustworthy.

Dan, it sounds like you and Jil had a great talk...just the the thing that is needed to build confidence in the motor. I had similar guidance when my boat was new-to-me while she was on jackstands and had a few friends aboard familiar with A-4's to give me something to work with. It jump started the evolution.
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Last edited by sastanley; 09-21-2015 at 11:32 PM.
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  #32   IP: 75.189.129.112
Old 09-24-2015, 08:03 AM
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Skywalker- does yours ever get stuck? Is it something that I shouldn't worry about as long as I use PB Blaster once in a while to unstick it?
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  #33   IP: 47.18.70.189
Old 09-24-2015, 08:19 AM
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Jil, it has never gotten stuck. I'd soak it and see if it loosens up. If not, probably time for a new one.

FWIW, the only time I use it is at the end of the season. I shut off the flow, pull the carb and filters. Even though our tanks sit high, I've never had a problem with unwanted flow.

I'd love to see some other pics of your boat. It's always interesting to see how others have "aged" and been modified and improved.

Skywalker
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  #34   IP: 98.226.209.168
Old 09-26-2015, 05:13 PM
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Welcome, A4's, MM, T27's and zincs

Jil,

Welcome. I too have a Tartan 27, a '74 yawl. I knew absolutely nothing more than what I remembered from 5th grade science class about gas engines when I bought my T27 in 2001, though I was a part owner of a '69 T27 sloop for a few years in the early 70's . And with the help of this forum and the MM manual I took apart most of my engine, added a lot of upgrades from MM, adjusted the valves, and put it back together, re worked and replaced the entire exhaust system, rewired 99% of the boat including the engine, added LED lights throughout, added a gimballed stove and much more.

Re "zincs" (actually, "anodes"): a T27 has few choices. We have a 1" shaft. There is not enough room between the prop and the rudder (if your setup is the same as mine) for that nice prop-nut style zinc. A regular donut with a 1" hole does not fit between the cutless bearing where the shaft exits the boat and the forward end of the prop. I used a thin donut, smaller than the usual size in thickness, made for a Beneteau but sold by
HTML Code:
boatzincs.com
, that barely fits but does work. It is has a 25mm hole size and is not a perfect fit around the 1" shaft but works fine. The techies and engineers there told me that as long as there was touching of the shaft and I could tighten it up, I was good. They also warned against trying to shave or to cut the thickness from a regular-sized, but more available donut (can start a fire). If you can get a thin 1"-holed zinc, great. I am in fresh water, so I was looking for magnesium or aluminum anodes. They are harder to find than zinc anodes.

With the electrical, my only words of wisdom are to research well what you do, read Charlie Wing, Nigel Calder, the BlueSeas site, and
HTML Code:
www.pbase.com/mainecruising/boat_projects
and of course, run things by this forum. On this site, I think Neil Dutton just put the link to a downloadable version of the ABYC standards for boats electrics.

Good Luck
Mary
'74 T27 Yawl HotFlash

Last edited by HOTFLASH; 09-28-2015 at 10:57 PM. Reason: grammar, spelling, clarification
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  #35   IP: 24.152.132.65
Old 09-26-2015, 05:52 PM
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Right you are Mary, just posted it today and for ease of retrieval I'll do it again here:
ABYC E-02.pdf
ABYC E-09.pdf
ABYC E-11.pdf

edit:
That gave me an idea and I proposed it to Admin Bill, a forum category for standards. He agreed. Thanks for the inspiration.
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Last edited by ndutton; 09-27-2015 at 11:42 AM.
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