71 Ericson 29

[toddster]

Not the boat; the motor. I've started a couple of other threads with specific noob questions, but maybe this motor should have its own thread.


The boat has been hauled out for four months now and I'm getting a bit anxious, since the vast horizon of projects doesn't seem to be getting any narrower. I've finished re-doing all of the wiring (a long story) and ended up sanding the whole bottom due to blisters. Time to turn to the engine.

It needs general clean up and a cooling system flush. I'd like to lower the profile an inch or so, so that the original engine cover will fit. A PO added an inch on top of the cover and in front, possibly during installation of the FWC. And it just doesn't fit. So I'll relocate the heat exchanger (which rattles against the galley) to the stbd bulkhead and put a shorter belt on the alternator, which is full out on the adjusting bracket. The pulley on front still won't quite clear the cover, so I may need to cut a hole in it and add a little extension. Also plan to relocate the fuel filter from the battery compartment into the engine compartment.

Got a package of odds and ends from MM to install too. Tach, hour meter, new spark plug wires (can't find them locally.)

[toddster]

Shaft wear... problem?

I ordered up an indigo prop. So today I removed the old one, and while I was at it, extracted the shaft and the cutlass bearing.

One of the surprises when we hauled the boat was this kind of odd bolt-on strut. I've never seen anything quite like it. Possibly after-market, but there isn't any typical cavity on the inside where the head of a strut would be buried. Just a backing plate on apparently undisturbed laminate. But that's not important right now.

Now that I look closer at it, the strut is held together and the prop is (was) held on by nylock nuts. No pins or lockwashers or anything else. The nut twisted right off with hardly any force. (Hah, nice try, boat, but I actually DO have a 15/16 wrench on hand.) So, first point of discussion: are these nuts really sufficient? If so, the next problem will be locating replacements.

Next problem: The shaft is distinctly worn in the cutlass bearing area. I don't have a precision caliper around but with my cheap one it looks as if the shaft is on the order of up to half a millimeter narrower in the wear area. Is this a fatal problem? I sure hope not because I'm running really low on boat-bucks and time. And the shaft log is looking a little dodgy as well.

[ndutton]

Shaft, DONE!! (sorry)

In my unsolicited opinion there's no way the strut arrangement is factory original. No way, no how. What it looks like to me is the factory strut was replaced with the bracket possibly due to a crack or break in the original. The repair and use of steel bolts is suspicious to me, likely P.O. handiwork. Any chance the boat was originally outboard powered? In that era, outboard powered 29 footers were not uncommon.

It's possible the (assumed) amateur repair/installation was responsible for the shaft damage. I'm feeling about 90% that it was.

[hanleyclifford]

That strut is a new one on me too. It would seem to offer some adjustability and if it is rigid enough could be a nice item. But I would lose those nuts for more traditional ss jam nuts. The shaft does look a bit worn but if the lateral movement with a new cutless is less than 1/16" you'll be good.

[toddster]

Thanks, the opinions certainly ARE solicited. The boat is definitely an original inboard. I too assumed the strut was a previous repair, but I just don't see any sign that a previously embedded one was cut out. Now that the shaft is out of the way, I can sand that area so maybe something will turn up.

Anyway, I doubt we need to look much farther than operating in a silty river full of basalt flour for causes of the shaft wear.

[ndutton]

I found a picture of an Ericson 29 showing the strut. I'm really sorry for the poor quality but I'm zoomed in to a ridiculous level. Even though the pic is distorted it shows a conventional strut unlike what's on your boat.

Anyway, I doubt we need to look much farther than operating in a silty river full of basalt flour for causes of the shaft wear.

All the more reason to be sure the drive line is in proper alignment. No point in aggravating the situation.

edit:
I just looked at your picture again. That's a Helluva lotta shaft showing behind the strut. Compare it to my blurry pic.

[13jeff13]

Glassed in gone

Thanks, the opinions certainly ARE solicited. The boat is definitely an original inboard. I too assumed the strut was a previous repair, but I just don't see any sign that a previously embedded one was cut out. Now that the shaft is out of the way, I can sand that area so maybe something will turn up.

Anyway, I doubt we need to look much farther than operating in a silty river full of basalt flour for causes of the shaft wear.

What you have is probably what is underneath all the other Glassed In ones. Your original probly had cracked or fell off at some point. What you have left is there repair of what was already there embedded? JMHO.....

I defer to Neil though, he was a boat builder.

[13jeff13]

actually

What you have is probably what is underneath all the other Glassed In ones. Your original probly had cracked or fell off at some point. What you have left is there repair of what was already there embedded? JMHO.....

I defer to Neil though, he was a boat builder.

In reference to what you said about the previous owner perhaps he took that off to adjust the angle of the prop shaft. It looks like it is adjustable if you move the prop shaft strut forward or rearward it will move the angle of the shaft up or down.

[13jeff13]

in fact

In reference to what you said about the previous owner perhaps he took that off to adjust the angle of the prop shaft. It looks like it is adjustable if you move the prop shaft strut forward or rearward it will move the angle of the shaft up or down.

Its probly use to be in the forward hole and they moved it aft 1 hole to lower the prop shaft angle, for the FWC.

[13jeff13]

And...



If you Want to lower your engine further you may want to move it back 1 more hole to lower the prop shaft angle.

All...JMHO..

[ndutton]

I defer to Neil though, he was a boat builder.

Well, maybe so but I NEVER saw anything like that!!

In reference to what you said about the previous owner perhaps he took that off to adjust the angle of the prop shaft. It looks like it is adjustable if you move the prop shaft strut forward or rearward it will move the angle of the shaft up or down.

No, no. The shaft angle is set in perpetuity at the factory when the shaft log is glassed into the hull. Much like a door with three hinges where the axes must be all collinear for the door to swing, in the case of the drive line the engine, shaft log and cutless bearing must be in line and the shaft log is unadjustable. Getting the shaft even slightly off in relation to the shaft log can be disasterous. Just ask Shawn.

[toddster]

I think the "adjustments" available on the strut are probably in order to fit it to different boats.
"Buck Algonquin" sells something somewhat similar that they call a "universal fit" strut.

[13jeff13]

I found a picture of an Ericson 29 showing the strut. I'm really sorry for the poor quality but I'm zoomed in to a ridiculous level. Even though the pic is distorted it shows a conventional strut unlike what's on your boat.

All the more reason to be sure the drive line is in proper alignment. No point in aggravating the situation.

edit:
I just looked at your picture again. That's a Helluva lotta shaft showing behind the strut. Compare it to my blurry pic.

Then maybe the previous owner move the whole engine aft one hole. and needed to move the shaft strut to keep the angle correct????

On second thought that engine compartment has hardly any room for movement at all.

Although, if FWC was added at a later date, perhaps they Had To move the engine aft. And in doing so the prop shaft aft..I would be curious if the shaft is exactly centered in the shaft log??

[ndutton]

Then maybe the previous owner move the whole engine aft onr hole. and needed to move the shaft strut to keep the angle correct????

I really don't think so. The cutless (strut) and shaft log would be aligned with each other regardless of the engine position. I think something else went on but I'm not sure what.

If I were to go out on a limb and make a guess, based on the excessive unsupported shaft beyond the strut I think the original strut failed for whatever reason and this repair was added forward of the original location. If there's a vestige of the old strut in the fiberglass I'd expect it to be aft of the current strut assembly.

The problem with shortening the shaft to get the proper bearing-to prop support is the prop tips will be too close to the hull. What's the standard for the exposed shaft between the strut and prop hub? One to two shaft diameters? Something like that. One shaft diameter is the minimum and that's where I always set the ones I installed.

[hanleyclifford]

Ya gotta love it

Having a "removable" cutless carrier makes frequent cutless bearing changes a real snap!