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  #1   IP: 65.123.118.178
Old 08-04-2014, 04:06 PM
krazzz krazzz is offline
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Alternator testing procedure

Good news, I have all the bugs worked out and my boat is finally running well enough to move on to the little things that don't matter much. The first thing on that list is my alternator. It does not seem to charge at all. When I got the boat the wiring was a total mess (including a "red" wire that goes to one of my batteries as a ground and a "black" wire that was actually a positive, yikes!) I had a stray heavy gauge orange wire that I was told was the alternator output. I connected that back up but there was no change. I am good with almost all engine systems except the alternator so I need some. Help. What is the proper step by step procedure for testing the alternator? (I searched the forum but didn't find anything.) What are some things to look for? Should I bypass my ammeter because I am not sure if it is working? I have a spare engine and can swap the alternator from that but I would rather do some testing first. My engine is almost inaccessible in my boat so the least amount of wrenching that I need to do the better. I have to go to the chiropractor just looking at my engine.

This isn't a huge concern because I could go all season without the alternator but I would have more peace of mind knowing that it works "just in case."
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  #2   IP: 71.118.13.238
Old 08-04-2014, 04:12 PM
Dave Neptune Dave Neptune is online now
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Lightbulb Check both

krazz, I'd suggest taking both to a shop to have them check for you. This way you are sure and can start on the wiring instead of possibly chasing yer' tail so to speak.
If one or both work you can decide as far a rebuilding one for a spare or the good one goes~~choice is yours.

Dave Neptune
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  #3   IP: 65.123.118.178
Old 08-04-2014, 05:07 PM
krazzz krazzz is offline
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Thanks Dave. What you have suggested is probably the best option but I am really hoping to do some testing in place because it is such a bear to work on. I am not a little guy but I am becoming quite the contortionist working on this engine. There are so many parts that I can either see but not touch, or touch but not see. I end up using my phone all the time to take pictures of the places I can't see so that I can more accurately feel my way around.
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  #4   IP: 107.0.6.242
Old 08-04-2014, 07:31 PM
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Question

Have you considered cutting inspection/access panels?
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  #5   IP: 108.222.212.20
Old 08-06-2014, 12:43 PM
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Engine access

How's this for access, HC?
Created after finding the sole core had turned to wet oatmeal. And of course after removing the head in the boat and then removing the engine through the cabin. As you can see, putting the A4 back in was a POC.
Still on the hard,
Howard
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  #6   IP: 161.213.49.150
Old 08-06-2014, 01:19 PM
JOHN COOKSON JOHN COOKSON is offline
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If you're not going to use a self-tailing winch replace the jib sheet cleats with self-locking ones.
I use them on my boat - they're great. Easy to cleat and release. No need to turn the sheet under to lock. All you do is wrap the line around it.

TRUE GRIT
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  #7   IP: 206.125.176.3
Old 08-06-2014, 02:08 PM
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Holy Access Hatch, Batman!

Howard, Coming along nicely...I see the "thatch cooling mod" already in place.
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  #8   IP: 174.58.82.173
Old 08-06-2014, 03:08 PM
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hello down there..........
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  #9   IP: 216.222.80.83
Old 08-06-2014, 06:08 PM
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What's the significance of the number "9" (or 6?) on the reverse gear cover?
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