#1
IP: 108.18.156.185
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When is it primed?
I tried looking for this answer, but I didn't really find anything definitive -- just bits and pieces. I am trying to get the A4 in my 1975 Sabre 28 to start and I don't really understand the hand primer (the manual primer). I've read that "up" is priming it and that it might need some pressure to get it primed. I've also read that I should hear or feel the swoosh when it is priming.
My problem, besides being very new to this and ignorant, is that it doesn't seem to me like the primer is doing anything. It just hangs there and doesn't seem to do anything when I move it up and down (and it barely moves -- maybe a few inches). So, any advice would be appreciated! How do you prime this? Should I put extra pressure on it going upwards? How much priming does it usually take, and how do I know it is primed (does the lever feel different when it's primed?)? Thank you so much! Matt |
#2
IP: 24.152.132.140
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It's primed when the carburetor bowl is full and should do so on its own with the starter cranking. Do you suspect the carb is not full?
Be sure to leave the raw water intake thru-hull closed until she fires, then open it immediately. No prolonged starter cranking with that valve open.
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Neil 1977 Catalina 30 San Pedro, California prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22 Had my hands in a few others |
#3
IP: 73.212.47.219
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The wire hanging from the bottom of the fuel pump moves from front to back, like a lever. If it is loose and flopping around, something is wrong. If it is very tight, the float bowl is probably full. If you want to check the bowl, there is a drain plug (bolt) on the bottom of the float bowl that you can loosen or remove to drain the bowl. Make sure you have something to catch the draining gasoline. Presuming it is full, you should feel a definite difference in the fuel pump after draining the bowl.
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Steve Demore S/V Doin' It Right Pasadena, MD |
#4
IP: 32.211.28.40
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The mechanical fuel pump is driven off the camshaft by a short push rod, which pushes the diaphragm up and a spring returns it. The priming lever does the same. If the engine stopped in the position where the diaphragm was up, the priming lever won't do anything. Give the starter a kick and try it again.
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thatch (10-21-2018) |
#5
IP: 108.18.156.185
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Thank you!
I appreciate all the advice! It gives me some things to go on and makes it much more clear. I'll get out and check it and will get it going!
Matt |
#6
IP: 207.118.20.35
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The bail on my pump is usually mostly loose and flopping around, except I get resistance at the outboard or port side of its motion. The 'up' side, as you describe it. The bail pumps more or less gas per stroke, according to what position the engine stopped in. As I pump against the resistance, which doesn't need much force, I hear gas flowing through the filters and into the carb. It usually takes about ten pulls, less if fuel is already in the bowl, more if you are drawing gas all the way from the tank through empty hoses and filters. As the fuel fills the bowl, elevates the float valve in the carb and closes it, the fuel line becomes pressurized, the resistance in the bail goes away, and the bail is loose and floppy all the way across its arc. Nothing is wrong. Then it is primed. Your fuel pressure gauge, if you have one, will register the pressure. If it loses pressure quickly, look for leaks. Manual priming is a good thing to be able to do if you want the engine to start quicker and not use much electricity to crank the engine more than a few seconds. You get fuel pressure before you crank. Cranking with the starter will eventually prime the fuel line. Or you can use the bail and start the engine with immediate fuel pressure. You shouldn't need to use the bail if there is fuel in the bowl.
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#7
IP: 108.18.156.185
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Perfect!
Quote:
Thanks so much for the excellent information! Matt |
#8
IP: 50.34.133.248
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Matt,
I'm glad you saw my post. The mechanical pump used to be a big mystery to me, too. Now I am an advocate for them. I think people assume electric ones are an upgrade, and they are easier to replace, but mechanical ones have advantages, IMO. They have better suction, and don't require electrical connections, or an OPSS that needs to be bypassed when you want to prime the carburetor. My mechanical pump has worked perfectly for 2500 hours. Good luck with yours. Make sure to use MMO in the fuel to keep the rubber parts from drying out. And, dare I say it, non-ethanol gas doesn't degrade the rubber. IMO. |
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Mattlurzo (12-11-2018) |
#9
IP: 192.186.122.174
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Last spring getting the new fuel system primed for the first time, I only had to pump the bail maybe a dozen strokes before I felt resistance and the system was ready to go.
Didn't think such a short throw would work so well and quickly. |
#10
IP: 137.200.32.6
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Quote:
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#11
IP: 24.152.132.140
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Quote:
Not my experience at all. I've always run with an electric pump and it has never, read: N-E-V-E-R failed me. When I bought my boat I replaced the pump with a new one on principle (14 years ago) and I once had an OPSS failure that was my own fault and diagnosed in seconds. The electric pump has also afforded me system priming and filter purging at the flip of a switch, fuel polishing and transfer from one tank to the other with the same switch. No PITA here.
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Neil 1977 Catalina 30 San Pedro, California prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22 Had my hands in a few others |
#12
IP: 32.211.28.40
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Hey folks, let's not get silly here.
Both pumps move fuel the same way - a moving diaphragm moves fuel past check valves. With the mechanical pump, the diaphragm and the valves are bigger and the diaphragm is moved by lump on the camshaft. With the electrical pump, the diaphragm is moved by an electric solenoid, and requires an OPSS. Basically not liking unneeded electrical stuff, I feel the mechanical pump is better. No electrical contacts to work/not work, no solenoid to burn out, no OPSS, primer lever right there, etc. My big issue with the original mechanical pump is leakage from the sediment bowl. The Moyer pump is improved in this area (vs the original pump), but why have the sediment bowl at all??? I went so far as to modify an original pump to eliminate the sediment bowl, but was never happy the resulting fuel inlet connection - not enough metal around the nipple. </rant> |
#13
IP: 24.152.132.140
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I understand that some prefer a mechanical pump over electric for various reasons the same as the other way around but trying to sell it with electrics can be a large PITA sounds unjustifiably dramatic especially to someone who has enjoyed trouble free electric performance for many years.
I dunno, I must have a very special engine. My electric fuel pump has not been a PITA in the least, my five batteries charge fine without an ACR or a fancy 3 stage external regulator, I have never blown out my alternator diodes, my electric FWC (now dialed in) works perfectly, I don't need to use the R terminal to run the electric fuel pump when starting and my cabin isn't filled with smoke even though I don't have a PCV, all things that at one time or another I have read are chronic problems. I'm on such a roll I should buy a lottery ticket.
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Neil 1977 Catalina 30 San Pedro, California prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22 Had my hands in a few others |
The Following User Says Thank You to ndutton For This Useful Post: | ||
thatch (12-11-2018) |
#14
IP: 97.93.70.7
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Al, re the mechanical pump and the fuel strainer. I have seen a few mech-pumps modified by cutting away the bowl portion and tapping the housing, then the bowl and it's leaking are eliminated. And with the filters today inline it is not a necessary part.
Don't remember who posted that info on this site though. Dave Neptune |
#15
IP: 50.35.34.141
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The sediment bowl seems to be unnecessary; every time I have opened it up, which is hardly ever, there is nothing in it. I usually leave it alone, it doesn't leak. I replace the inline filter upstream of the pump every spring. I also have another inline filter between the pump and the carb.
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The Following User Says Thank You to capnward For This Useful Post: | ||
Administrator (12-18-2018) |
#16
IP: 138.207.175.58
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I vestigial addition, I would say.
Do I get points for that? Bill |
#17
IP: 24.152.132.140
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Quote:
Took about 20 minutes + JB Weld curing time. Tapping threads was not practical with the tools I had at hand. There was not enough material in the pump casting for 1/8"-27 NPT threads, same was true for 5/16"-24 machine screw threads. Dropping one size to 1/4"-28 machine screw threads the fuel passage hole was too big. JB weld to the rescue.
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Neil 1977 Catalina 30 San Pedro, California prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22 Had my hands in a few others Last edited by ndutton; 12-16-2018 at 09:19 AM. |
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#18
IP: 107.77.94.75
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Fuel pump
I don’t recommend my solution but it works for me on my Tartan 34c. Since I am on a mooring, battery depletion is always a concern so the goal is to minimize battery drain if at all possible. I just completed an exhaust manifold replacement. The engine lay dormant for approx. 14 months. I treat my fuel with MMO so I didn’t use any supplemental fuel, just straight from tank through filter and water separator. My solution is to add an outboard motor gas tank bulb permantly installed between fuel tank and filters. In this case after such prolonged downtime, a few squeeze of the bulb quickly pressurized the system and then engine started quickly on the first half rotation. I love the simplicity of the A4. Of course, just as one should always maintain and inspect for carburetor leaks, likewise for all fuel lines from the tank.
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#19
IP: 50.35.63.217
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I too, am a fan of pressurizing the fuel system before cranking, but I use the bail on the mechanical pump. Thus avoiding the outboard-style bulb, which, I understand from reading this forum, the CG frowns upon inside the boat.
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to capnward For This Useful Post: | ||
Administrator (12-17-2018), Dave Neptune (12-17-2018) |
#20
IP: 97.93.70.7
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Joe, why can't your engine be put back to mechanical? My guess would be no pump plunger in the block.
Dave Neptune |
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