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#1
IP: 184.176.196.206
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1972 E27-Fixing Everything
Got this boat end of Dec 2017. Its hull #61 off the E27 assembly line.
Been posting in the troubleshooting section since the engine wasn't running. With their awesome help, that problem is solved and its time to move on to other things. If you want to read how I got from there to here, this is the link. http://www.moyermarineforum.com/foru...ad.php?t=10545 Going to use this as a repair log and question spot for things specific to my E27 renovation/overhaul. Can only work on boat on weekends, so that's when I will have updates.
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Bill L. 1972 Ericson 27 Hull #61 Atomic 4 Last edited by CajunSpike; 04-09-2018 at 07:57 PM. |
#2
IP: 24.152.132.140
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Have you seen the pictures of Alan Gomes' E26-2 (nearly identical to yours)? He's an active member on the Ericson site. Some of the projects we have done on his boat are:
Complete cabin sole replacement Lighting mods Rudder slop repair including a new rudder Anchor well lid modification to accommodate a Rockna anchor in the roller Deck void repair over the head Composting head Laminate porosity in the skeg (chronic leak) Garhauer traveler New tiller New tiller pilot Engine swap in the water (essentially like for like) using the rig as a crane
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Neil 1977 Catalina 30 San Pedro, California prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22 Had my hands in a few others |
#3
IP: 70.186.109.11
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I do have an account at the Ericson site but I feel more interested in the people here. I made a few posts there and got some or no reply. I even got chastised for posting a question in the 'wrong section'. Nothing happened that I felt the need to continue the conversation there.
Here? Everyone is very supportive and informed. The replies are not just a few words but practically a dissertation on the subject. I've finally figured out fear and doubt are worse than the actual situation. Both of these are cured with good help. That's what I need to make this happen. Ideas and things to try when it all goes wrong. I've made a point of asking if it was ok to continue the troubleshooting discussion in the that forum so as not to irritate anyone. It's just finally time to move, so I came here. Haven't personally met anybody. Jeff Ashbury has been particularly helpful since I used his doc on how to remove the fuel tank. Did tell him thank you on fb. He was very courteous and glad his write up helped somebody. Be happy to review the pics of that 26-2 if you know where they are as well as the work done. I didn't start up on the Moyer site till I had all the necessary background work done to actually start the engine. After 2 days and $400 of paid mechanic help that couldn't get it running, I decided to give it a try on my own, with the help of this website. We were successful. The mechanic was not. Oh, the mechanic said the engine was trashed and would never run. List of what I've done on this boat so far, no particular order. Most of this was not discussed in the troubleshooting thread. Replaced bilge pump float switch and wiring. Float switch hinge was cracked....wires shot. Pump power is direct from bat2 with fuse. Replaced old carb with new/used carb. Replaced alternator belt. Drained/filled oil. Installed 2nd battery. Marine is bat1. Car battery is bat2. Just bought 2nd marine battery, not installed yet. Extended bat2 cables to reach further. Cables were physically too short to reach battery 2 position. Connected charger/maintainer to both batteries. Replaced missing spark arrestor. Added rubber hose from block to spark arrestor. Reconnected/adjusted/lubricated choke cable. Fixed/reconnected throttle cable on handle end due to bent cable. Adjusted carb idle control 1.5 screws out. Adjusted carb limit screw not to die on full slow throttle. Replaced electric fuel pump. Later found out original electric pump was on manual power switch and probably works. Fuel pump is powered by coil +. Only place I know to find a key on circuit easily. Added inline switch to fuel pump + to cut off fuel and run the carb dry if needed. This is to empty the carb over winter when boat not in use, so varnish/sludge does not form. Replaced main halyard line. Replaced all 4 bimini straps. Very rotten and frayed. Patched bimini top center. Had an abrasion hole due to rubbing on overhead lines. New anchor/rope/chain because I thought there was none. Found prior anchor and rope in latrine locker. Has no chain. Adjusted points to .2 as per specs. This and the carb is what finally got the motor to start. The points were hugely too wide open. New fuel line from tank to carb. Replaced line that holds boom to center slider bolted to cabin roof. Replaced lines in center slider so slider can be positioned to left or right side of cabin. Cleared clogged heat exchanger by inserting screw driver in outlet port. Cut back heat exchanger outlet coolant hose due to partial hose collapse. Adjusted blower intake tube not to interfere with shift lever. Found blower output tube on back side of fan totally disconnected. Jammed it into the fan outlet so it never comes out again. Freed stuck #3 valve by getting engine to run continuously and using MMO. Replaced shift cable. Old cable split open and rusty. Replaced fuel tank. Leak in bottom rear starboard corner. Replaced and looped fuel tank vent line to prevent exterior water intake. Installed fuel gauge. Still doesn't show right level but it does kick on. Reconnected pulpit supports to pulpit main tube by drilling holes and using cotter pins to hold the parts together. Inspected main sail and roller furler sail. No rips or tears. To do list: Test all exterior lights/fix as needed. Test all interior lights/fix as needed. Do something with electronics. Boat has 3 obsolete non working wind gauges. Has VHF that does work. Depth finder most needed. Spare points/condenser/cap Spare water pump impeller. Fix wood handrails - in progress Replace sail cover-in progress. Sewing Sail Rite kit together. Original sail cover just rotten along the top edge. Check if windows leak/replace lens due to serious bad fogging up lens. Replace genoa wind up pull rope? Very thin. I feel it may be too thin. Rear hatch needs work. The wood frame is old and split in places. The plastic center plate is held on by screws some of which have pulled out the frame. Reseal cockpit drain just in case its leaking. Reseal steering wheel pedestal just in case its leaking. Reseal/move fuel fill assembly. Don't like fuel fill in floor. Have already sealed the deck fuel fill but will not use anymore. Hoping to make side of cockpit fuel fill instead. Found the sink drain is just open to the bilge. There is a thru hull fitting right under it, but they are not connected. That's what I can remember at this point. And you thought I told the whole story in troubleshooting section. :-) I do feel the boat is safe at this point to take out from the dock on short runs, notwithstanding the remaining things to be done. Only untied it and left the slip once so far, on my own. That attempt ended with the boat returning to the dock due to shifting issues. Second try will be soon.
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Bill L. 1972 Ericson 27 Hull #61 Atomic 4 Last edited by CajunSpike; 04-10-2018 at 09:51 PM. |
#4
IP: 24.152.132.140
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I have only a few pictures of Alan's boat projects but here are two: the modification to his anchor well lid to fit the anchor and his finished Lonseal cabin sole.
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Neil 1977 Catalina 30 San Pedro, California prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22 Had my hands in a few others |
#5
IP: 70.186.109.11
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Strangely enough, my boat has no chain locker built into the deck. Not that it was glassed over, there just is none.
Done lots of anchor reading and I'm impressed with the Rocna myself. I do like that cover design though. The floor is also much more interesting with the wood tone than just plain scuffed up white. I do not have those small hatch doors on the floor. Only one I have is bilge pump door under the ladder. I suspect this boat was totally setup for racing at some point in the past. It has the folding propeller, the setup for big balloon spinnaker with the required additional winches and attachment points, and the whisker pole. There is a gold colored plate on on the interior cabin that says "3rd place, 1979". I only know the partial history of the last 3 owners. No idea how it got from California to New Orleans. Owner 3 had it for years and loved it. He supposedly took good care of it and always refused to sell it until the day came where he had 3 sailboats and had to get rid of one. The Ericson was the one to go. Owner 2 was a student who figured out that living on a sailboat was cheaper than renting an apartment. He did nothing with it besides sleep in it, until he didn't need it anymore and put it up for sale. He left a small microwave in the galley. Owner 1 was an older gentleman. Turns out he already had a boat and wanted the slip the Ericson was in. Seems that particular marina is a highly desirable location and slips never come open. He bought the boat for $4500 just to get the slip. He spent a little effort trying to get the motor running but wasn't the mechanical type. He gave up on fixing it and put it on Craigslist for $2000. I bought it. You know the rest.
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Bill L. 1972 Ericson 27 Hull #61 Atomic 4 Last edited by CajunSpike; 04-09-2018 at 11:30 PM. |
#6
IP: 24.152.132.140
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Anchor wells came on the scene a little after your boat was built, like around 1975.
You may have noticed the members on the Ericson forum think their brand is superior to the rest. I'm not making that up, they really do. The fact is Ericsons are no better, worse, different, faster or slower than most of the competing production boats of the era.
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Neil 1977 Catalina 30 San Pedro, California prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22 Had my hands in a few others Last edited by ndutton; 04-09-2018 at 11:25 PM. |
#7
IP: 131.162.193.128
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Quote:
Peter |
The Following User Says Thank You to Peter For This Useful Post: | ||
Administrator (04-10-2018) |
#8
IP: 184.176.196.206
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As of this writing, I do not.
Boat was not wired that way when I got it. I understand the concept though. If the oil pressure drops, it cuts off the fuel flow. I specifically bought a very low pressure pump so it wouldn't overfill the carb with the engine not running. I've even gone so far as to run the pump with the engine off, watching the carb throat to see if any fuel would leak out. Verified the carb installed has a valid and in good shape needle valve seal. It does not leak fuel with pump running and engine off currently. That doesn't mean it never will however. The oil pressure switch is just the standard can type single contact switch connected to a variable pressure gauge. Would you need a different type of sending unit to do this? This is whats installed currently.
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Bill L. 1972 Ericson 27 Hull #61 Atomic 4 Last edited by CajunSpike; 04-10-2018 at 11:31 AM. |
#9
IP: 131.162.193.128
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Quote:
The oil pressure safety switch (OPSS) is a simple on-off switch that is open when the oil pressure is less than a certain value and and closes when the pressure exceeds that value - typically 6 PSI. Our hosts offer one - https://moyermarine.com/product/oil-...si-fpmp_04_46/ There is a port on the block at the aft end on the port side for installing one. Can Neil please chime in to comment whether an OPSS is a Coast Guard/ABYC(?) requirement or not? Peter |
The Following User Says Thank You to Peter For This Useful Post: | ||
CajunSpike (04-10-2018) |
#10
IP: 108.45.44.91
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Quote:
An oil pressure switch, hooked to an "idiot light", is normally closed and opens a contact to ground when the oil pressure stays above a certain threshold. This is not what you want. An oil pressure safety switch is normally open, and closes a pair of contacts when the oil pressure stays above a certain threshold. There is no electrical connection to ground. This is what you want. It should be wired in series with the fuel pump. edit: Peter types faster than I do! :0
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@(^.^)@ Ed 1977 Pearson P-323 "Dolce Vita" with rebuilt Atomic-4 Last edited by edwardc; 04-10-2018 at 12:20 PM. |
The Following User Says Thank You to edwardc For This Useful Post: | ||
CajunSpike (04-10-2018) |
#11
IP: 166.137.252.129
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Quote:
Actually both ericsonyachts.com and moyermarineforum.com have many incredible, thoughtful, experienced, salty-in-the-best-way contributors, and both sites maintain spectacular standards for technical writing clarity, durable and clever repair methods, and personal civility. I found 11 posts from you, several of which were observations appended to old, long threads that didn’t seem to be seeking responses; several of which were A4 questions that were answered promptly and referred to this forum (we don’t talk much about A4s or any engines over there, or perhaps if there’s a lot of diesel discussion I just ignore it); and one about the original price of an Ericson 27 that I guess nobody knew the answer to. It all seemed pretty reasonable to my eye. I can’t speak to how a specific misposted question might have been dealt with because whatever it was seems to have been properly repotted, but the moderators are some of the most gentle, tactful people I’ve encountered online. There is no snobbery or attitude on that site (except, apparently, in the posts that Neil reads) and we all enjoy hearing repair stories from people like you who clearly have some, or a lot of, mechanical moxie. I have zero innate mechanical ability, but the existence of that website, and this one, are the primary reasons that I have been able to own, operate, and maintain my 49-year-old boat. I think you will find similar benefits with your boat. I would be happy to mention to the moderators if a response from them about a posting location made a new member feel slighted. There was certainly no intention to be anything but welcoming to everyone. |
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to tenders For This Useful Post: | ||
alcodiesel (04-11-2018), CajunSpike (04-11-2018) |
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