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  #26   IP: 138.207.175.58
Old 07-01-2018, 07:08 PM
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I would take those few minutes to be sure about the plug.

Bill
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Old 07-01-2018, 08:44 PM
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Quote:
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Yep. It's on the same side of the engine as the shift lever and at the opposite end of the engine...
Here's a pic...
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Old 07-01-2018, 09:11 PM
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Just my opinion

If it's the plug, the engine needs to come out of its hole to replace. If it's not the plug, all other possibilities that result in losing all oil with the engine at rest involve the pan which also necessitates pulling the engine up and out of its hole.

I don't see any way it can be avoided so the sooner the better. It sounds like a lot of work but it really isn't. Shaft, fuel line, water hose, exhaust, cables and wires, maybe two hours round trip.
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Old 07-02-2018, 12:09 AM
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engine pull

If you do need to pull the A4, be absolutely sure the output coupling is completely disengaged from the shaft before lifting! For me, a bent shaft was quite expensive and time-consuming to replace.
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Old 07-02-2018, 10:48 AM
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If it is the plug, you might be able to reach down there. If not, you only "sort of" have to remove the engine. Probably just lift it 6 inches, put the plug in, and lower it back.
This does raise an issue - how the heck did it come out? Did the PO reach down there and loosen it?
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Old 07-02-2018, 10:31 PM
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I can see the top of the drain plug on the side. No oil from there. These pictures I think are more in the centre. At least I think that's where my probe was.
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Old 07-02-2018, 11:10 PM
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If there is a plug in the bottom, that is not standard.
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Old 07-02-2018, 11:33 PM
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I think it is the studs in the centre behind the flywheel housing. Should there be a stud in the middle hole which is slightly lower?
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Old 07-02-2018, 11:37 PM
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Anyone have a picture of the bottom or oil pan?
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Old 07-02-2018, 11:55 PM
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Name:  IMG_0745.jpg
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This is the hole I think I could see. Should there be a stud?
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Old 07-03-2018, 07:40 AM
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Image below. Also, look here and here.

HTH.


Last edited by Administrator; 07-03-2018 at 07:53 AM.
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Old 07-03-2018, 08:55 AM
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The hole you circled, the center one at the bottom of the pan, is intended to remain open. It does not have anything to do with the wet oil area of the pan but is instead a path for errant liquids inside the flywheel housing to have a way out.

I took a close look at my spare engine currently sitting level on a test bed and filled with oil. The hole is clear through the solid pan flange into the flywheel housing and remains bone dry.
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Last edited by ndutton; 07-03-2018 at 09:21 AM.
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Old 07-04-2018, 05:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ndutton View Post
The hole you circled, the center one at the bottom of the pan, is intended to remain open. It does not have anything to do with the wet oil area of the pan but is instead a path for errant liquids inside the flywheel housing to have a way out.

I took a close look at my spare engine currently sitting level on a test bed and filled with oil. The hole is clear through the solid pan flange into the flywheel housing and remains bone dry.
I took a couple of pics today.
As Neil points out, that hole doesn't get a plug or bolt.
It's open and dry.

As we've already pointed out, the drain plug is on the Starter/Alt side and forward. Right behind the flywheel.
Which is an interesting location because that is almost the highest point in the engine rather than the lowest.
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northchannelsailor (07-04-2018)
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Old 07-04-2018, 06:57 PM
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I got a visual on the plug. No oil around that area. It's all where the two bottom studs and and that hole is.
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Old 07-06-2018, 09:23 AM
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Time to add more oil and see where it comes out?
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Old 07-06-2018, 06:07 PM
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What about putting some sort of oil sop towel under the engine? From the oil stain you would at least know what area the oil is leaking from. Anybody considered the rear engine/trans seal yet?
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Old 07-08-2018, 11:47 PM
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I don't see lock washers like that on mine.

Is this job of lifting the engine better done on the hard or in the water?
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Old 07-09-2018, 10:32 AM
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Either is fine. I would never try and get the engine off the boat on the hard with the ship's tackle, you would be hanging 300 pounds or so off center on jack stands
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Old 07-09-2018, 08:03 PM
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I installed mine on the hard (it came in pieces, in boxes). I used a come-along in about the middle of the boom, with a halyard supporting the boom in the same place, and got it into the cockpit. Adjusted placement of the come-along and halyard and lowered it down through the companionway. Never an issue in doing it and never stressed anything. I did most of it by myself, with my wife helping keep it from spinning as it went through the companionway.
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northchannelsailor (07-09-2018)
  #45   IP: 208.96.68.206
Old 07-09-2018, 10:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joe_db View Post
Either is fine. I would never try and get the engine off the boat on the hard with the ship's tackle, you would be hanging 300 pounds or so off center on jack stands
That could turn pear shaped for sure!
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Old 07-09-2018, 10:11 PM
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If on the hard, the minimum charge for a light crane could be the best money you ever spent.
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Old 07-10-2018, 11:54 AM
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Currently in the water.

I had a thought. I am thinking of picking up some long socket extensions to see if I can at least try and tighten the two studs down there before I do anything.
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Old 07-10-2018, 02:55 PM
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Before you do that even:
1. Can we confirm the oil drains out of the engine when not running - i.e. if you put 4 quarts in it right now, 4 quarts ends up in the bilge.
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Old 07-10-2018, 08:15 PM
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With the boat in the water I'd rather not fill the bilge with oil. I already know the oil leaks sitting because the bilge had oil after sitting all winter.

The unique engine placement does give me access to the aft end of the engine. It lies almost midship. I think I can slip an extension under the the pan going forward. Not sure how much of an indent the pan has at the two studs location? Whether a socket can find home there is another question.
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Old 07-10-2018, 09:06 PM
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Exactly what two studs are you talking about?
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