#26
IP: 24.152.132.140
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More details please
How did you determine you had spark? What was the quality of the spark, wimpy yellow or snapping blue? If you're convinced the condenser is suspect, why not just change it so you can put it to rest and move on? It's cheap and easy to do.
Waiting on the points open/close test.
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Neil 1977 Catalina 30 San Pedro, California prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22 Had my hands in a few others |
#27
IP: 70.186.109.11
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Its also easy and costs nothing to make sure your points gap is still set correctly at .02 of an inch.
When i got my boat, the points were set like at .05" Spark would happen but was weak white spark not crisp snappy blue. That was the clue that gave the solution.
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Bill L. 1972 Ericson 27 Hull #61 Atomic 4 |
#28
IP: 108.45.44.91
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@(^.^)@ Ed 1977 Pearson P-323 "Dolce Vita" with rebuilt Atomic-4 |
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to edwardc For This Useful Post: | ||
Dave Neptune (04-23-2018), Peter (04-23-2018) |
#29
IP: 67.186.97.244
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Don't know about a weak spark but a few years ago my early model A4 would stop running repeatedly after about 5 minutes and perplexed everyone. An old harbor salt told me to change the condenser out. Ran great after that. Apparently heat or internal current can sometimes have a negative effect. Small cost and effort and worth a try.
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#30
IP: 74.196.210.38
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Hurrah!
All right! got the engine running. Took distributor cap off and discovered negative wire from coil along with wire from condenser had twisted up and was blocking points and keeping distributor cap from being seated completely, even though I had tightened the screws holding the distributor cap as tight as I could. Evidently there was enough of a gap to break contact with rotor and top of distributor cap. Reseated wires and replaced the cap and she fired right up.
I want to thank all you guys and gals for your helpful hints and suggestions and also for Moyer Marine for their check list of things to check when engine won't start. Now on to the rewiring of the "Old Boat" Sailr |
The Following 4 Users Say Thank You to sailr For This Useful Post: | ||
Administrator (04-29-2018), CajunSpike (04-29-2018), Dave Neptune (04-29-2018), Whippet (04-29-2018) |
#31
IP: 99.225.32.205
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great problem solving
Way to stick with it! - and using the Moyer check list. Perhaps further down your A4 career you can consider EI. Potential for better reliability than points.
__________________
Steve Etobicoke YC, C&C27 A4 #204381, 1980 |
The Following User Says Thank You to Whippet For This Useful Post: | ||
Administrator (04-29-2018) |
#32
IP: 32.211.28.40
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Reading back through this thread, I see nowhere where you've changed or cleaned the points. This is the first thing to check in the classic 'hasn't run in a while/won't start' situation - particularly over the winter when things tend to be kinda humid in the boat.
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#33
IP: 74.196.210.38
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Thanks Al Schober
You are right about the points. They were new points gapped at .02 that had been replaced previously along with the condenser. The non starting could have been cured if I had just be careful when I removed and replaced the distributor cap after I had checked that I was getting spark from the coil. It just drug the whole ordeal out. Evidently coil was bad and I replaced it which gave me sparks to distributor but condenser was bad and I wasn't getting spark to plugs and I replaced it along with the points. I screwed up when I changed the condenser and wasn't careful to make sure the wires were connected and hadn't ridden up to block the correct seating of the distributor cap which kept the spark from being transferred to plugs. Another life's lesson I guess.
Anyway thanks for comment and advice. Goes to show you can teach an old dog new tricks LOL Sailr |
#34
IP: 216.54.45.226
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Insulater washers on psoit
Quote:
Thanks |
#35
IP: 216.54.45.226
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Condenser Insulator washer ??
Quote:
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