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  #26   IP: 24.152.132.140
Old 04-22-2018, 06:12 PM
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More details please

How did you determine you had spark? What was the quality of the spark, wimpy yellow or snapping blue? If you're convinced the condenser is suspect, why not just change it so you can put it to rest and move on? It's cheap and easy to do.

Waiting on the points open/close test.
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  #27   IP: 70.186.109.11
Old 04-22-2018, 11:51 PM
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Its also easy and costs nothing to make sure your points gap is still set correctly at .02 of an inch.

When i got my boat, the points were set like at .05"
Spark would happen but was weak white spark not crisp snappy blue.

That was the clue that gave the solution.
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  #28   IP: 108.45.44.91
Old 04-23-2018, 11:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sailr View Post
... Doesn't pay to be Old!...sailr
But it beats the alternative!
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  #29   IP: 67.186.97.244
Old 04-23-2018, 01:47 PM
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Don't know about a weak spark but a few years ago my early model A4 would stop running repeatedly after about 5 minutes and perplexed everyone. An old harbor salt told me to change the condenser out. Ran great after that. Apparently heat or internal current can sometimes have a negative effect. Small cost and effort and worth a try.
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  #30   IP: 74.196.210.38
Old 04-29-2018, 02:36 PM
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Hurrah!

All right! got the engine running. Took distributor cap off and discovered negative wire from coil along with wire from condenser had twisted up and was blocking points and keeping distributor cap from being seated completely, even though I had tightened the screws holding the distributor cap as tight as I could. Evidently there was enough of a gap to break contact with rotor and top of distributor cap. Reseated wires and replaced the cap and she fired right up.

I want to thank all you guys and gals for your helpful hints and suggestions and also for Moyer Marine for their check list of things to check when engine won't start.

Now on to the rewiring of the "Old Boat"

Sailr
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  #31   IP: 99.225.32.205
Old 04-29-2018, 04:32 PM
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great problem solving

Way to stick with it! - and using the Moyer check list. Perhaps further down your A4 career you can consider EI. Potential for better reliability than points.
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  #32   IP: 32.211.28.40
Old 04-29-2018, 10:25 PM
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Reading back through this thread, I see nowhere where you've changed or cleaned the points. This is the first thing to check in the classic 'hasn't run in a while/won't start' situation - particularly over the winter when things tend to be kinda humid in the boat.
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  #33   IP: 74.196.210.38
Old 04-30-2018, 11:28 AM
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Thanks Al Schober

You are right about the points. They were new points gapped at .02 that had been replaced previously along with the condenser. The non starting could have been cured if I had just be careful when I removed and replaced the distributor cap after I had checked that I was getting spark from the coil. It just drug the whole ordeal out. Evidently coil was bad and I replaced it which gave me sparks to distributor but condenser was bad and I wasn't getting spark to plugs and I replaced it along with the points. I screwed up when I changed the condenser and wasn't careful to make sure the wires were connected and hadn't ridden up to block the correct seating of the distributor cap which kept the spark from being transferred to plugs. Another life's lesson I guess.

Anyway thanks for comment and advice. Goes to show you can teach an old dog new tricks LOL

Sailr
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  #34   IP: 216.54.45.226
Old 10-08-2018, 07:56 AM
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Insulater washers on psoit

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam View Post
A classic mistake, at least for me, is when the condenser [or points] is changed the re assembly sequence for the condenser lead, coil lead, insulator washer[s] on the distributor post for the points is easy to get mixed up - small parts working in low light if you don't remove the distributor. The engine will turnover fine but secondary ignition spark will be non-existent. Another dumb mistake on my early model A4 is leaving the hinged oil fill open and it touches the distributor grounding out the spark current. Again, engine turns over well but won't start. Some of the pros on this site can correctly and effectively address some more complex issues and give you a good answer in couple of sentences but your problem may just be simple one. As mentioned before, a little invisible corrosion on the points quickly removed with a fine point file or emery cloth may also solve your issue. good luck
Good morning can you clarify the insulator washer for me. I have no fire out of the distributor but do not remember ant washer on the between the condenser wire and the coil wire.
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  #35   IP: 216.54.45.226
Old 10-09-2018, 12:25 PM
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Condenser Insulator washer ??

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam View Post
A classic mistake, at least for me, is when the condenser [or points] is changed the re assembly sequence for the condenser lead, coil lead, insulator washer[s] on the distributor post for the points is easy to get mixed up - small parts working in low light if you don't remove the distributor. The engine will turnover fine but secondary ignition spark will be non-existent. Another dumb mistake on my early model A4 is leaving the hinged oil fill open and it touches the distributor grounding out the spark current. Again, engine turns over well but won't start. Some of the pros on this site can correctly and effectively address some more complex issues and give you a good answer in couple of sentences but your problem may just be simple one. As mentioned before, a little invisible corrosion on the points quickly removed with a fine point file or emery cloth may also solve your issue. good luck
Can any one explain the insulator washer to me?
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